The Vagabond Hiker

Hiking, trekking, and climbing the world

New Zealand part 1: exploring Northland

Kia ora from New Zealand!

Casual tourists to New Zealand may be forgiven for thinking that Auckland sits on the northern part of the North Island. In fact, it is a long day’s drive from the largest city in New Zealand to the Cape Reinga lighthouse, the farthest north one can get in a motorized vehicle.  Fighting through the heavy Auckland traffic the Northland beckons. Auckland encompasses more than 1/3rd of the country’s 4.7 million inhabitants, and like many conurbations, is best seen in the rear-view mirror.

Admittedly, subtropical Northland does not have the dramatic landscapes of the Southern Alps; the land is predominantly rolling hill country, more than half of which is taken up with farming, ranching and forestry. It is bounded to the west by the Tasman Sea, and to the east by the Pacific Ocean. I spent a week exploring this verdant land and impossibly blue water on the cusp of the austral summer, but could easily have stayed until the autumn.  With daytime temps in the 70’s, nights in the low 60’s, 15 hours of daylight, and lots of intense sun, one couldn’t ask for better hiking or sailing weather in December!

I hope these photos will help you think warm thoughts during this Christmas season.

A view along the Mt Manaia track, located only a couple of miles from Kiwi Cottage where I stayed. I never did see a Northern Island brown Kiwi as they are nocturnal.
View South from Mt Manaia on Whangarei Heads
Mt Manaia at sunset from the Kiwi Cottage
Smuggler’s Cove, Bream Head Reserve, about 4 miles from my cottage.  I was the only one here on this beautiful Friday afternoon: the 15 minute walk must have been enough to deter others (either that or they had to work!)
Popularly known as the New Zealand Christmas tree, Pohutukawa blooms in December. This impressive specimen is at Smuggler’s Cove in the Bream Head Reserve.
A New Zealand Moorhen (Pukeko) at Bream Head Reserve (zoom)
Peach Cove beach, Bream Head Reserve. The hour walk over a steep ridge discouraged all but the most intrepid beach-goers.
A view along the Peach Cove track. There were more than 1000 stairs down to the cove. The ascent on the return hike was a good cardio workout.
An interesting tree along the Peach Cove track
The Tane Mahuta (Lord of the Forest) Kauri, the largest in New Zealand by volume. Sadly, most of the Kauris were logged out in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
Te Matua Ngahere, the Father of the Forest. The second largest Kauri in New Zealand, it is nearly 55 feet in circumference. It is in the Waipoua Kauri Forest near the West coast, along with Tane Mahuta and many other massive Kauris. This photo is stitched together from three.
Kauri bark detail
The R. Tucker Thompson in port, Russell NZ. This 85 ft schooner is used much of the year for youth development, but summertime tourists help defray the operating costs.
The Tucker Thompson anchored for lunch on an uninhabited island in the aptly named Bay of Islands, in December and January the summer playground for much of Auckland.
The famous Hole in the Rock from the Tucker Thompson
Some of the Tucker Thompson’s press of sail. In the afternoon all eight sails on this gaff-rigged schooner were set.
The view from up in the rigging. None of the other 20 tourists climbed above the deck.

Stay tuned for the next installment in the Kiwi series of blog posts.

The Vagabond Hiker

Comments

  1. Love the pictures and commentary. You could easily be a travel writer. 😉 Happy Holidays!

    Terri

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