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Cornwall Circular Walks

June 2, 2018

The South coast of Cornwall has a reputation of being less rugged than the north coast, and certainly compared to the section from Westward Ho! to Padstow (see my last post), this was true.  The walks, though, were no less interesting for their more gentle character.  From my cottage near Truro in Cornwall these past two weeks I’ve done several loop walks of lengths varying from five to twelve miles or so. Other than a short walk on Bodmin Moor, all my hikes involved sections of the South West Coast Path followed by an inland return to the start point. The inland portions of the walks were generally pleasant in themselves, by streams, through woods, across meadows, and along quiet country lanes.  The Ordnance Survey (OS) Pathfinder Guide “Cornwall: Outstanding Circular Walks” was invaluable in route-finding for several of the walks.  (At 1:25,000 scale, OS maps cover the entire country with detail similar to USGS Quads). It still amazes me that Public Footpaths and Bridleways crisscross the patchwork of private lands, giving right of way to walkers throughout rural Britain.

As walking options abound within a half hour or shorter drive, I never did get further afield to more well-known spots such as Land’s End or Lizard Point.  In any event, the nearby coast of Roseland Peninsula is indistinguishable from these more famous landmarks, apart from having far fewer tourists. I chose the photos below to capture some of the variety of Cornwall’s landscapes. Enjoy!

Detail of an Early Marsh Orchid, taken near Hartland Quay on Cornwall’s north coast. I should have included this with my last post, but only now got around to identifying it…
The Hurlers, late neolithic or early bronze age stone circles, Bodmin Moor. Bodmin Moor includes Brown Willy, the highest point in Cornwall.
Granite boulders and tree, Bodmin Moor. I loved this wind-blown tree. It reminds me of Tierra del Fuego or Slope Point, the southernmost point on New Zealand’s South Island.
The Vagabond Hiker and the Cheesewring, Bodmin Moor. One of the most amazing rock formations I’ve ever encountered.  Erosion has exposed these stacked granite slabs over the millennia. I got this shot on the first attempt with my timer!
Houseman’s engine house, Bodmin Moor. After farming, mines were the largest employers in this area during the 19th century when this structure was built.
Carne Beach, a few miles south of my Airbnb cottage in Tregony. Red Campion was ubiquitous this past month in both Cornwall and North Devon.
The 19th century John Nash-designed Caerhays Castle and grounds, near Carne Beach
Picturesque Portloe from the South West Coast Path, Roseland Peninsula
Low tide view from near St Mawes looking across the Carrick Roads to Falmouth, the third deepest natural harbor in the world.
Gorgeous wild Gladiolus along the coast path near Boswinger on the Roseland Peninsula
Vault Beach at low tide, looking to Dodman Point, the highest headland on the south Cornwall coast, at 374 ft.
Foxgloves and gorse at Dodman Point.
Chapel Point and (private) beach.  This is one of the most amazing private estates in Cornwall, with 270 degree water views.
A profusion of wildflowers and a classic sailing boat along the coast path near Chapel Point
View from the hamlet of St Anthony across the Percuil River to St Mawes
The wonderfully overgrown St Anthony’s graveyard and church
St Anthony light and sailing boat in the haze (zoom). Definitely not good conditions for photography, but this vista captures what I always thought Cornwall looked like.
View from St Catherine’s Point to Fowey (left)
Flowers making their home in the ruins of St Catherine’s Castle, built by Henry VIII in 1540
The Saints’ Way at its southern end near Fowey, with some Rhododendrons still in bloom. To avoid Lands End, religious pilgrims from Ireland would walk across mid Cornwall from Padstow south to Fowey, before re-embarking.
An impressive beech along the Saints’ Way in the Covington Woods, Fowey

On Monday Maggie and I are off to Bucharest. We will spend two weeks there, divided between the Carpathian Mountains in Transylvania and the Danube Delta, with one day in the capital city of Romania.  Until next post, keep hiking and enjoying nature!

The Vagabond Hiker

Europe, Great Britain Kent

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Comments

  1. Terri Rylander says

    June 5, 2018 at 4:18 pm

    Wow, the rolling fields of Portloe. How beautiful!

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