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Trekking and climbing in the Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru

July 11, 2018

How does one even begin to describe the wonderful two weeks we spent in the Cordillera Huayhuash?  My friend Bob organized a group of hiking and canyoneering friends from St George Utah for this trek with the company Peruvian Andes Adventures. Our group of nine clients was very ably supported by a head mountaineering guide, a fantastic cook, and two assistant cooks who also helped as porters.  Most of the group equipment and personal kit was carried on 23 donkeys, managed by four muleteers.

The trek was a roughly clockwise circuit of the Cordillara Huayhuash, several hours drive from the mountain town of Huaraz (itself a 7 hour bus journey from Lima).  After two days of acclimatization hikes near Huaraz, we headed up into the Huayhuash. In addition to 10 actual trek days, we had three rest days where we spent two consecutive nights at the same camp. Most of us went on short out and back hikes on our three rest days. Four of us also traversed Diablo Mudo on day 13, a relatively straightforward rock and snow climb with inclines of up to about 45 degrees.

The following photos try to convey some of the sublime grandeur and beauty of the Peruvian Andes. I tried to be very selective in choosing only the most interesting photos, but as you’ll soon realize, that was not an easy thing to do. They are in strict chronological order.

Mountain view from my hotel room in Huaraz. The usual starting point for trekking in the Cordillera Blanca and Huayhuash, it is easily the largest city in this part of Peru, with more than 100,000 inhabitants.
Lago and Nevada Churup, our second acclimatization hike in the Cordillera Blanca near Huaraz
Our lunch spot on day 1, en-route to Llamac, our trailhead where we would start trekking the following day.
Cantua buxifolia, a sacred flower to the Incas and the national flower of Peru
View in the mist, day 2, Llamac Valley
Day 3 vista from near Cacanan Punta, our first high pass
Misty view on the afternoon of day 3
Lupines in the mist, day 3
Two of our group, Marie and Jimmy, above a lake on day 3

 

Likely Gentianella hirculus
Day 3 view of Laguna Mitucocha from our camp
Day 3 view of Nevada Ninashanca from camp
A panorama I stitched together above Laguna Carhuacocha on day 4 with Yerupaja (c) and Siula Grande (l) of Touching the Void fame providing the backdrop
Morning light at our camp at Laguno Carhuacocha on day 5, the first “rest” day. Yerupaja is on the left here.
Three lakes view under Siula Grande and Yerupaja, giants of the Huayhuash, day 6. At 6,617 meters, Yerupaja is the 2nd highest mountain in Peru.
The Vagabond Hiker at Siula Punta (4830m)
Our campsite at Huayhuash
Some of our 23 donkeys on day 7. The pyramidal mountain is Nevada Cuyoc
In the thermal baths. After a week on trek they were much appreciated!
Gentiana sedifolia, day 8
Nevada Cuyoc
A mushroom rock formation, reminiscent of Utah
Hypochearis sessiliflora
View with yellow-flowered shrub and cactus
Local girls at Huanacpatay camp
Our Huanacpatay campsite
Our group at Santa Rosa pass (5030 m), day 9. This was our highest pass of the trek.
An Andean condor near Santa Rosa pass. Admittedly not a good picture of this magnificent and iconic bird. . .
Siula Grande and its namesake glacier, day 10. We were near the climbers’ base camp on the West side of the mountain (previous photos were from the East side) on this 2nd “rest” day.
Waterfall near Cutatambo camp
Red flowers, possibly Bomarea, near the waterfall
A Lupinus mutabilis (aka Andean lupine) forest, on the morning of day 11
Salvia striata
Orecocereus cactus flower
A rushing stream on day 11 as we headed down towards Huayllapa village.
Huayllapa village. Apart from Llamac at the start and finish, this was the low point and the only village we saw on the trek, at only 3,600 meters (10,800 ft)!
Calceolaria Integrifolio (aka baby booties)
Oxalis adenophylla (aka silver shamrock) detail, day 12
A thorny Chuquiragua shrub (“flower of the Andes”) and mountain backdrop
Climbing a high ridge on Diablo Mudo, day 13. We started at 3 AM and this photo was taken about 6:30 AM when we were still almost 2 1/2 hours from the summit.
Dawn view high on Diablo Mudo
Our rope team (minus our guide) on the summit of Diablo Mudo, 5350 meters (17,650 ft). Four of us made this optional climb, which was a 10 1/2 hour day.
Celebrating on the summit of Diablo Mudo with our guide Marco
A cushion plant (Asteraceae) seen on the descent from Diablo Mudo
Tephrocactus floccosus cactus in flower, day 14
A Polylepis tree with semi-parasitic pupa shrub flowers
A gnarled polylepis tree
Ferns in a cave by Laguna Jahuacocha on rest day 14
Laguna Jahuacocha view
The lower portion of a waterfall near our final camp
Our final camp, days 14 and 15
Sunset from my tent on day 14. On the following day we hiked back to Llamac, a relatively easy 8 miles.

Tonight I fly back to London from Lima, Peru for a few days of R&R before my trip to Italy next week where I’ll be hiking and (possibly) climbing in the Mont Blanc (or, as the Italians say, Monte Bianco) region.  Until my next blog post, happy trails!

The Vagabond Hiker

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Latin America, Peru Kent

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Comments

  1. Joy Langley says

    July 12, 2018 at 12:16 pm

    Looks amazing but rather desolate. You do pick interesting places! Enjoy Italy :-)hugs..moi.

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