The Vagabond Hiker

Hiking, trekking, and climbing the world

The Brenta Dolomites: the Via Ferrata Bocchette

Back in Italy after my brief sojourn in the Balkans, I headed to Madonna di Campiglio, a small ski town in the winter that in the summer is transformed into an excellent base for hiking and climbing the Brenta Dolomites.  Lying west of the Adige Valley, the Brenta Group, while geographically separate from the rest of the Dolomites, are, geologically identical.    Furthermore, they boast a fantastic multi-day high level traverse that incorporates several via ferratas* and some sublimely-located rifugios*, or alpine huts.  (For those of you not familiar with via ferratas, or the “iron way,” they are made up of cables and ladders into which one can clip, often using a special ferrata lanyard.  Helmets and harnesses are obligatory).

Along with another client, I did a 5-day traverse with a local guide, staying in four different rifugios along the way.  Highlights from the week are shown in the following photos.  Those with me in them were taken by our guide, Martino.  All others are mine.  Enjoy!

* –  the correct Italian plural for rifugio is rifugi and for ferrata is ferrate

Madonna di Campiglio from my garret room in the Hotel Arnica
A view of the Brentas as we approach them from the north on the first day. We took the gondola lift up to about 1900 meters, saving a long slog to the start of our north-to-south route.
A view with Rhaetian poppies on day 1 of the five day traverse.  Late in the season, we didn’t see many flowers at elevations ranging from 1900 to 3173 meters.
Our guide, Martino, leading, with the other client, Elaine, on a ledge traverse on the Via Benini on day 1. The first day featured some easy wide ledges such as this one, along with numerous ladders.
Early morning view above Rifugio Tuckett on day 2. Staying in high level rifugios, we were able to reach the start of the ferratas in an hour or less each morning.
View down to Lago Molveno
A panorama with me on the Bochette Alta
Climbing on the Bochette Alta on day 2.
A vista from the Bocchette Alta
Dawn alpenglow on day 3, seen from the Rifugio Alimonta
At the top of the glacier we ascended on day 3, looking back towards the Rifugio Alimonta. These rifugios charge about 50 Euros for a bed in a dorm room with half board (dinner and breakfast).
A long ladder heralded the start of the day 3 Via Ferrata Bochette Centrale
Other climbers behind us after the glacier climb. We left the rifugio at about 6:30 to get a head start on some large, slow groups.
On an exposed section of the Bochette Centrale. This day had arguably the best climbing of the entire trip.
Me waving to the camera on ledge traverse of the Bocchete Centrale
Showing the ferrata lanyard rig tied into my harness
Watching the mist roll in while on a ledge traverse
Some rare greenery, looking down from Via Ferrata Bochette Centrale
Rifugio Tosa, our home for the third night
Elaine and Martino heading up for our afternoon climb near Rifugio Tosa, day 3. Most days we arrived early in the afternoon, after about 6-7 hours of ferratas. Here the good weather and some ropes and hardware supplied by the rifugio staff made for a fun addition to the schedule.
A quick rest break on our climb, with Elaine. Having an certified local guide paid huge dividends.
Rifugio Tosa from our afternoon climb.
Sunrise on day 4 from Rifugio Tosa
Early morning alpenglow and rainbow segment from the Rifugio Tosa. It was definitely worthwhile getting up a half hour early this day!
Rifugio Tosa in the morning light
Cima Tosa south wall which we climbed on day 4. This was another addition Martino made to the schedule as the weather looked good and we had been making excellent time each day.
Climbing with Elaine on Cima Tosa. Mostly it was scrambling, but there was a lot of exposure in places.
Cima Tosa summit with Madonna. It is the highest peak in the Brenta Group at 3173 meters (10,410 ft).
Panorama from the Cima Tosa summit, showing the Alps off to the northwest
A view of the Brenta Dolomites, including the Campanile Basso seen on the left here
Martino and others descending to the Rifugio Agostini on day 4
View from my Rifugio Agostini bunk. Everything was supplied for sleeping, apart from a mandatory sleeping bag liner.
Climbing with Elaine on day 5, with an amazing backdrop
On our final ferrata descent on day 5. I’m in the lower middle of the photo here.
Vista with fireweed (Rosebay Willowherb) on the final day on our way down to the valley
Rifugio Brentei on our final descent. We stopped for a coffee here.

Currently I am renting an apartment in the small town of Cencenighe Agordino in the province of Belluna in the Dolomites, doing some “low level” hiking when the unsettled weather permits. Next week I will be doing some more via ferratas, including on the Marmolada and on the Civetta, two famous nearby  mountains.  Until my next blog,

keep on hiking!

The Vagabond Hiker

Comments

  1. Holeeee cow! Just seeing the Dolomites is on my bucket list. Would love to hike them but not necessarily climb them, haha. Hard to imagine how they built the rifugi up in those places. Enjoy Italy!

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