The Vagabond Hiker

Hiking, trekking, and climbing the world

Bhutan’s Snowman Trek, Part 1: Laya

Lazing in Lanzarote, the Bhutanese Himalayas seem a world away. A change in attitude without much of a corresponding change in latitude (to plagiarize Jimmy Buffett). The motivation for me is higher in the actual doing than in the analyzing. Indeed, I’ve taken far more time reviewing, selecting, editing, and uploading photos than I had imagined, even to the extent of looking over and including some of the photos from my first trip to Bhutan in 2012.

Arguably one of the most spectacular walks in the world, Bhutan’s incredible Snowman Trek follows the spine of the Himalaya between Bhutan and Tibet, from Paro in the west to Trongsa in the east. During the course of this 25 day trek, our group of ten crossed 11 passes in excess of 4500 meters (14,760 ft), including 5 over 5000 meters (16,400 ft), and visited the almost separate mountain kingdom of Lunana, one of the remotest inhabited valleys on the planet.

Tourist/trekking map of Bhutan, showing the Snowman trek route from Paro to Trongsa in Northwest Bhutan.

Along the way we journeyed through fabled villages like Laya, walked beneath 6- and 7000-meter peaks, including Chomolhari, the astounding Jichu Drake, and the World’s highest unclimbed peak, Gangkar Puensum. We also had time to absorb some of the incredible culture of this unique Himalayan Kingdom, with visits to the spectacular cliff-face Taktsang ‘Tiger’s Nest’ Monastery and the picturesque Punakha Dzong as well as two mountain festivals with which our trek was timed to coincide.

The Snowman Trek can easily be divided into two: the first, lower altitude and more traveled portion from Shana (where the road now ends) to Laya, and the second, more strenuous, higher and more remote, from Laya through Lunana, in our variant ending at Sephu. I likewise chose to divide my blog into two parts.

The famous Taktsang (“Tiger’s Nest”) Monastery, the objective of our pre-trek acclimatization hike. Fortunately for all, one manifestly unfit trekker quit after this hike, reducing our number to ten. Almost $10,000 spent for essentially a single hike!
Group photo with our two guides at the start of the trek on day 1. A wide diversity of backgrounds, including Polish, Italian, Swiss, and Australian, as well as American and British, made for an interesting trip.
A stream crossing early on day 1. Note the mani wheel.
Chomolhari, 7326m on the Tibetan border, seen on day 2 (zoom). The first portion of the Snowman Trek follows the very popular Chomolhari Trek route.
The Hermit’s Cave on day 2. The cave is in the cliffs to the right of the temple. Very few Westerners have ever visited – or ever will – as the locals are closing this sacred site to trekkers after this season.
Edelweiss, seen here on day 3. They seem far more common here than in the Alps, though most were past their prime this late in the season.
More flowers seen on day 3. The berries are from a different plant.
Chomolhari Mountain Festival dancers on day 4. This was a small celebration presided over by the minister of health.
On our descent into camp on day 5. Our tents are the orange dots in the valley.
Trumpet gentians. These flowers were ubiquitous, existing (if not thriving) as high as 5100 meters (16,730 ft.)!
Lake seen on our day 6 acclimatization hike with the distinctive Jitchu Drake behind
Local School children and our leader Tshering at Jangothang. We visited this elementary school on the way out of the village on day 7.
A vibrant trail-side flower on day 7.
Blue sheep (Bharal) on day 7, one of two herds of this Himalayan goat (caprid) species that we saw during the trek.
Our day 7 village campsite. Men from this village were having an archery contest with a neighboring village during our visit. Although I’ve avoided including photos showing high tension wires, the electrification of Laya three years ago has made the area seem less remote.
A typical Bhutanese style house leaving the village on day 8. Much of the recent prosperity of many of the villages bordering Tibet is due to the trade in Cordyceps Sinensis, the caterpillar fungus considered by the Chinese (and others) to exhibit aphrodisiacal qualities.
Tiger Mountain (Gangchen Tang) in the clouds on day 8 (zoom).
Spanish Moss and autumn colors below tree line (which is about 4200 m, 13,800 ft). Much of the first part of the trek was in the forest and sub-alpine environment
A wind-sculpted Juniper tree on day 8.
A taste of things to come. The terrain walking towards the Shinge La on day 10.
Shinge La, our first 5000m pass, on day 10. We quickly descended to warmer and less windy climes.
Some of our horses before loading on the morning of day 11. We had as many as 37 horses to transport our luggage and camp equipment.
View nearing Laya on day 11. Our second of three hot water bucket showers during the trek was enjoyed this afternoon in camp. Tshering did not want our smell to offend the locals during the next day’s festival!
Local family at the Laya Royal Highlander festival, day 12. We enjoyed this annual festival on our second rest day. This photo (and the two following) are courtesy of Stephen, who had a much better facility of taking people pics (and a better camera to do it with) than did I!
Laya Royal Highlander Festival, day 12. Note the conical hats the Laya women wear. They all enjoyed having their photos taken.
Another of Stephen’s great photos from the Laya Highlander Festival.

I attempted a video of a dance from the festival. Even though I compressed it, it may take a few minutes to load…

Stay tuned for the Snowman Trek, Part 2: Lunana in a few days.

The Vagabond Hiker

Comments

  1. Wow – just wow. That area sits squarely on my bucket list. Such a beautiful country and beautiful people. It seems as if the mountains are guardians of the land.

    Again, thanks for sharing – and the video brought it all to life.

  2. The people-pics as you call them, are certainly a surprise… how “National Geographic,” I said to myself. Yes, they were not taken by you as your caption then informed me; however, there inclusion gave me a little more insight into the place.

  3. So breathtaking Kent – a place “out of this world” – one hopes that this rare location can be preserved as long as possible, although the introduction of electricity may be the beginning of change to come.

    • Lunana still doesn’t have electricity as you will see in my next blog in a few days. Anyhow, it’s difficult for me to argue with their desire for some of the mod cons that we all take for granted.

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