The Vagabond Hiker

Hiking, trekking, and climbing the world

Bhutan’s Snowman Trek, Part 2: Lunana

Happy Thanksgiving from Lanzarote!

Among many blessings I have to be thankful for, the first which comes to mind is that it is sunny and 72 degrees here, perfect for hiking or swimming in the ocean (ok, the water is a bit cool). With Great Britain underwater and much of the US remaining in the grip of multiple storms, there are worse places I could be writing this blog from than the Canaries. . .

Leaving Laya after the Royal Highlander Festival, the trekking moved quite literally to a whole other level. The altitudes were higher, the weather colder and more unsettled, and the distances and elevation gains more serious. I was loving it.

A stupa (memorial containing sacred relics) seen on day 13, a relatively easy first day after our rest.
The Mo Chu river along which we walked much of day 13
Yaks crossing a bridge as we approached our camp on day 13. The weather definitely was detiorating at this point!
Me at Tsome La (5100m) on day 14. This pass was actually the start of a long crossing of a barren alpine plateau.
Our day 14 camp was in a valley known locally for its high snowfall. That night proved no exception.
The sun makes a welcome appearance on day 15 before the Karakachu La
The view from the Karakachu La (5080m) on day 15
Our group on the Karakachu La. Somehow I’m front and center here.
Our path along the Tarina Valley on day 16
It was nice to be below treeline, even if only for a short time. I saw this interesting flower farther along the Tarina Valley on day 16.
Vista of Kangphu Gang on day 17
Yaks seen going descending from Keche La as we were heading up on on day 17. Yaks must stay above 3000m, so non-trekking tourists in Bhutan don’t usually see them.
Keche La (4500m) with prayer flags and some of our group. I had ascended a little above the pass for this photo.
Chozo village on day 19, our third and final rest (and shower!) day. Though lacking electricity, Chozo actually had decent cell reception as the tower is solar-powered.
Our lunch spot by a lake on our way to the Sinthey La (5200m) on day 21. The two containers have our tea and hot lunch the cook had prepared for us that morning.
Lake Tsochena ringed by mountains on the descent from Sinthey La
Some of our horses and mules ascending the Rinchen Zoe La (5320m) on day 23, our highest point on the trek . Because of relatively good weather, we didn’t need any yaks to break trail through the snow, “only” the 37 equines.
A 270 deg. panorama seen from the Rinchen Zoe La (5320m, 17,454 ft). Gangkhar Puensum (7570m, 24,836 ft), the highest unclimbed mountain in the world, is at left-center, “peaking” out from behind lower mountains. Since 1994, climbing mountains in Bhutan higher than 6,000m has been prohibited out of respect for local spiritual beliefs, and since 2003 mountaineering has been forbidden completely.
The Vagabond Hiker from a few meters above the Rinchen Zoe La. It wasn’t really all that warm; I was simply switching jackets when I took a self-timer photo!
Clouds reflected in a lake descending from the Rinchen Zoe La
Our picturesque camp above Tampe Tsho lake on day 23. We were hit by several inches of snow that night, clear from the next photo. . .
Leaving camp for the Tampe La (4600m) on day 24. The pass is the obvious notch on the left, not visible from here.
The Vagabond Hiker on Tampe La (4600m) on day 24, our 11th and final high pass of the trek!
Monochrome vista of the sacred Om Thso Lake seen on our descent from Tampe La. There wasn’t much color anyway!
Panorama of the second (unnamed) lake on our descent to Maurothang, still day 24. Rhododendrons are seen in the foreground. If I ever come back to Bhutan, it will be in the spring to see them all in flower.
Prayer flags on our descent to Maurothang, our final camp
Our final camp by the river with my tent on the far left
An interesting flower seen as we approach the road head on the final day

While greenery was much appreciated after days of barren vistas, the final day of trekking was more mud and yak shit than anything else. However, the Bhutanese trekking agency met us at the road head with our vans and conjured up a fine lunch, including cold Bhutanese beer and wine. A great welcome back to civilization!

On our drive back to the capital Thimphu the next day we visited the famous Punakha Dzong, at the confluence of the Mo and Po (mother and father) Rivers. I took this photo in 2012 on my first trip to Bhutan as the light was better.
A magestic Bodhi tree (Ficus religiosa) in the Punakha Dzong courtyard
Driving to Thimphu, we crossed the Dochu La, known for its recently-constructed 108 stupas. This vista (photo also taken in 2012) includes Table Mountain, (center) and Gangkhar Puensum (right, just visible beside the tree).

After a farewell dinner in Thimphu where we said goodbye to our guides, the next afternoon we flew back to Kathmandu. Unfortunately, I did not have a window seat for what is easily the most spectacular commercial flight in the world, parallel to the spine of the Himalayas: the one hour trip features ring-side views of five the six highest mountains in the world. Oh, well, maybe next time.

I will publish one more blog this year featuring a few photos from the south coast of England near Hastings, where I spent so much time this past year and will spend several weeks next year. The blog will also detail some of my travel plans for 2020. Until then, keep hiking!

The Vagabond Hiker

Comments

  1. What a fantastic trip (as they all are)! For some reason, I feel called to that area, to experience the culture, the geography, and the geology. Love the pictures of the high passes.

    During this stateside holiday, I wish you a Happy Thanksgiving. Thanks for sharing the world with us.

    Terri

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