The Vagabond Hiker

Hiking, trekking, and climbing the world

Far from the Madding Crowd around Joshua Tree

Since I first visited Joshua Tree National Park in Southern California about fifteen years ago, the number of visitors has more than doubled to over 3 million per year. Like other wildly popular parks such as Yosemite in California and Zion in Utah, the vast majority of the visitors congregate in a few areas. The Main Canyon in Zion National Park, Yosemite Valley in Yosemite National Park, and at the many pullouts along Park Boulevard in Joshua Tree National Park. These areas have three aspects in common: 1) spectacular scenery for quick Instagrams; 2) short, easy trails catering to a largely sedentary population; and 3) proximity to a paved road.

Once beyond the limited areas that meet all three of these three criteria, however, the hiker is amply rewarded with solitude, beauty, and the thrill of being Far from the Madding Crowd (apologies to Thomas Gray). In and around Joshua Tree National Park, the outdoor adventurer has options of longer, more remote trails, off-trail scramble routes in canyons and on innumerable rock formations, and summit climbs of the myriad peaks that abound in this area, on the border of the Mojave and Sonoran Deserts. In this blog I will highlight some of the hikes, scrambles, and climbs that I did over a five week period in February and March this year, as well as show a couple photos taken from my casita outside the town of Twentynine Palms.

The Trails

To escape the crowds on maintained trails at first seems nigh-on impossible, but such is not the case. First, go mid-week. Avoid the weekends like the plague. (If you’re supposed to be working, take a mental health day). Second, go early in the morning. The light is better anyway, and for at least half of your hike you’ll see no one. Third, find a longer trail that starts away from Park Boulevard, preferably off some gravel or dirt road. Yes, these do exist! They just aren’t the ones the Park Rangers will tell you about unless you repeatedly prod them.

Desert Queen Mine Extended loop. I cobbled together several trails from the Desert Queen Mine trailhead to achieve an interesting, 9 mile loop. This is an early morning view with some discarded equipment foreground.
The Eagle Cliffs boulder house near the Dessert Queen Mine. In California this qualifies as affordable housing!
Phacelia (Desert Bells) seen along the trail. February was a little early for most flowers; April is the best time for botanizing in Joshua Tree.
Teddy bear cholla and monzonite granite formations
A twelve stamp mill on the Lost Horse Mine loop trail. This mine was the most profitable of the early 20th century mines in the future park. I added a 1/2 mile excursion to the Lost Horse Mountain summit for great views. Go early to get parking and avoid the crowds – at least for the first half of the hike.
A Joshua Tree budding along the Stubbe Springs loop. This 13 mile loop off of Keys View Road is one one that sees few visitors despite the generally well-maintained trail.
Fan Canyon overlook view to Coachella Valley along the Stubbe Springs loop. It was a great lunch spot nearly 5000 ft above the valley floor.
Amboy Crater south rim view, Mojave Trails National Monument. This 10,000 year old lava field was only a 40 minute drive from my casita in 29 Palms, but a world away from Joshua Tree. A four mile loop hike in the early morning was well-recompensed with great views and few other visitors. (In Joshua Tree, the easy hike to Malapai Hill off of Geology Tour Road offers similar terrain).

The Scrambles

Of course the main reason I wanted to stay near Joshua Tree was not the trails, but the great scrambling opportunities, mainly on the monzonite granite rocks and riverine boulders. The park is world-renown for its rock climbing and bouldering, and one sees many climbers accoutred with extensive hardware and crash pads, but the scramble routes are far less well known.

California Fan Palm at 49 Palms Canyon. The first part of this scramble was a short and popular trail hike to the namesake Oasis. After this point, I saw no one scrambling up the canyon.
Some riverine rocks in 49 Palms Canyon. Eventually I thought it too risky to proceed up the canyon. Though a long, arduous work-around was possible, I turned around at that point.
An initial view back to the trailhead as I headed up Rattlesnake Canyon. The trailhead is near the Indian Cove campground and the initial portion is the most popular and arguably the most spectacular.
A Pinyon Pine finds its niche in Rattlesnake Canyon. I scrambled all the way out of the canyon and to a small stream that was flowing – a very rare sight in Joshua Tree.

Use full screen mode to view the video below:

Rock bowl after Rattlesnake Canyon
My friend John resting at lunch in Rattlesnake Canyon. This scramble was a second variant of Rattlesnake Canyon I did. Indeed, there are almost an infinite number of variants one could try in these canyons.
I also did two variants of the Gunsight scramble from Indian Cove. Here is a view NE to Indian Cove and the 29 Palms Marine Base
A Bladder Pod shrub in a sandy wash. Although common, this shrub is a pretty sight in early spring.
Detail of a Bladder Pod (Peritoma arborea) seen in the wash on the approach to the Indian Cove – Gunsight scramble.
Bernard and I trying to locate the use trail on an Oak Canyon Potholes loop recon. The scrambling here was straightforward, in washes and fairly gentle canyons, but since the trailhead was at the end of a gravel road and the trail disappeared shortly after the start, we saw no one else that Saturday. Bernard leads hikes for the Coachella Valley Hiking Club to which I belong.
Gorgeous rocks at a dry waterfall on the Oak Canyon Potholes loop
The Wonderland of Rocks from an overlook on the Oak Canyon Potholes loop

The Summits

The numerous desert peaks always seem to beckon to me. Apart from Ryan Mountain with its short, easy trail, and Quail Mountain, the high point in Joshua Tree, there is little risk of encountering others on a climb in or around the park. Such indeed was the case for the seven peaks more obscure I climbed this past winter, several of which I highlight here.

Wash walking view on the Joshua Mountain loop climb. This distinctive peak features a short but fun scramble to the summit. It is accessed from outside the park near the North Entrance Station.
View SW to Mount Mary from the pullout trailhead along Pinto Basin Road. Note the distinctive North Face.
Saguaro summit cactus on Mount Mary, to my knowledge, the only saguaro in the park.
Gneiss rocks seen on my descent of Mount Mary. I did a loop to add interest, making the climb a genuine traverse of the mountain.
Desert Globemallow (Sphaeralcea ambigua) seen on my approach to Mount Mary
Prickly pear on the approach from the O’Dell Rd trailhead to Queen Mountain, seen here in the background. This was the same trailhead used for the Oak Canyon Potholes scramble.
Mount San Jacinto vista from the beginning of the Queen Mountain ascent
Mount San Gorgonio from the summit of Queen Mountain
Hedgehog cactus on the Queen Mountain approach. Come in April to see flowering cacti.
Mojave Prickly Pear on the Queen Mountain approach
John and I attempted a trifecta of obscure peaks along Geology Tour and Berdoo Canyon Roads. Here is a view from Lela Peak towards the second and third peaks I would climb that day, Bernard and Little Berdoo, in the Little San Bernardino Mountains.
An Evening Primrose already in bloom near Lela Peak
My Subaru Crosstrek at the trailhead of Sheep Hole Mountain, off Amboy Rd in the Sheep Hole Mountain Wilderness, now part of Mojave Trails National Monument. I got an early start due to expected high temperatures.
Canyon rocks on the Sheep Hole Mountain ascent. The scrambling was excellent and my loop route took in a variety of terrain.
360 degree pano from Sheep Hole Mountain summit

I had intended to do a couple more peaks before heading to St George Utah for the spring, but as it turned out Sheep Hole Mountain was my final hike. I took a fall on the descent that cracked a couple of ribs. Other peaks will have to wait for my next trip to Joshua Tree. . .

The Coyote Casita

Highly recommended for one or two people if you are visiting the area is the Coyote Casita, an Airbnb listing in Wonder Valley outside of 29 Palms. The large patio with only the main house as a neighbor, a fire pit, and great sunrise and sunsets made it a wonderful choice for the five weeks.

Sunset alpenglow from my patio, looking East. Sheep Hole Mountain is in the background center, the Bullion Mountains on the left.
A roadrunner (pardon the poor picture quality, but these guys move quickly!) seen from my patio

I will be spending the spring in and around St George, Utah, recovering from my fall. This summer I have planned a four month trip to England, Italy, and several other European countries that will provide ample subject matter for numerous blogs. I’ll provide more details before I depart the US in late May.

Enjoy the spring season outdoors!

The Vagabond Hiker

Comments

  1. Hey there! Great write up on the lesser-known areas in/around JT. I’ve been there twice. The first time about 4 yrs ago with a group and we did an all-day scramble loop. Wished I knew what it was called. The other time, November 2020, where I started to learn to rock climb. Cool place. We want to go back and backpack in since you don’t have to fight for campsites that way.

    • True, campsites were fully booked even mid-week in March. It’s easy to backpack, all you do is sign in at a backcountry board. The only limit is how much water you’re willing to carry!

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