The Vagabond Hiker

Hiking, trekking, and climbing the world

Walking in Turkey, Part 1: Best of the Lycian Way

On a last-minute impulse inspired by reasonable airfare, I decided to head to Turkey for three weeks of walking and culture. The first portion of the journey took me from Las Vegas to Istanbul via London, and then the next morning on a short flight to Dalaman in Southwestern Turkey. For the next 6 days I walked some of the best portions of the more than 300 miles of coastal and inland trails in this area rich in history. The ex-pat Briton Kate Clow provided the impetus for cobbling together these ancient trails, first opened in 1999. Sadly, since that time a large amount of coastal development has taken place, detracting from sections of the Way. With limited time available, and transfers required to enjoy the most interesting sections of the trail, I booked a self-guided walking week with KE Adventures, whose local agent, Amber Travel, provided superb support, including daily luggage transfers. Enjoy the trek!

Fethiya Old Town market. My first night’s accommodation was nearby in the historic center. The market is a great place to stock up on dried fruits and nuts for the trail.
Some of the many Lycian rock tombs on the outskirts of Fethiya, Day 1. I walked directly from my hotel, though the official start of the Lycian Way was at the start of my 2nd day of walking.
The tomb of Amyntas, built by the Lycians in 350 BC, with poppies in the foreground.
Macro of a Pale Poppy (Papaver argemone)
Fethiya coastal view from the Tomb of Amyntas
A cobbled old Roman road through a pine forest, en route to Kayakoy, my first night’s destination.
Fragrant wisteria in bloom along a Kayakoy village road. This once thriving down fell largely into ruin after 1923 due to the population exchange with Greece following the Greco-Turkish war.
Roman sarcophagi along a Kayakoy village road
Villa Rhapsody, Kayakoy. A highly-recommended choice that served dinner and breakfast, and provided a pack lunch for the next day’s walk.
The official start to the Lycian Way, Day 2
Ölüdeniz town, beach, and coast, shortly after the start of the Lycian Way
Atmospheric trail view of Babadag Mountain on a traverse of its shoulder
Pink rock-rose (Cistus creticus)
The bole of an ancient olive tree, Kirme village
Abandoned terraces and sea views above Faralya, Day 3
Mallow (Mallow silvestris)
Rugged coastal topography en route to the Alinca watershed on Day 3
A somewhat battered looking turtle seen at the start of a steep descent on the Lycian Way
More amazing coastal topography from Day 3
The Ottoman Cistern at Sancakli, where my transfer was supposedly waiting. The route I took included transfers on 5 of the 6 days in order to avoid less interesting sections of the Lycian Way. All except this one went smoothly.
Patara city gate (1st century CE). My Day 4 walk began at the ancient city of Patara.
Harbor Street, Patara, dating from the 1st century BCE.
Assembly Hall of the Lycian League in Patara, housing “history’s earliest and perfect example of government,” according to Montesquieu.
Patara beach. The beach and surrounding coastal area is undeveloped due to nesting of endangered Loggerhead turtles. This was by far the best beach I encountered, and in April with chilly water was mostly deserted.
The Lycian Way following a Roman aqueduct, Day 4
Lycian coastal views on Day 4
Sage leaf rock-rose (Cistus salviifolius)
Another view of the Roman aqueduct, near Delikkemer (Myra)
Kas theatre, Day 5. This ancient theatre (200-300 BCE) is the only one facing the sea in Anatolia.
View from the cafe in Kaş where I enjoyed a late morning iced coffee. While some days were 8+ miles and 2000 ft or more elevation gain, other days were short enough to enjoy a leisurely start. The town of Kaş was a wonderful overnight stop, and featured two vegan restaurants! An extra day spent here sea kayaking and enjoying the ambience would have been greatly enjoyed.
Path along the karstic coast on Day 5. For those non-geologists reading this blog, karst is an irregular limestone region with sinkholes, underground streams, and caverns.
A beach cove vista on Day 5. I had a relaxing paddle on this remote pebble beach.
View from my transfer boat, heading to the fishing village of Simena
A view from my patio of my Simena pensione
Simena fort and sarcophagi at the start of Day 6
More karstic coast, Day 6
A lizard that did not look like he wanted to be messed with
An abandoned house near the coast from the Ottoman days
Church ruins at the ancient site of Istlada, most of which has not been excavated and is charmingly free from tourism.

Following this wonderful week of walking the Lycian Way, I flew to Istanbul for a city break, spending three nights in the boutique hotel Ibrahim Pasha in the historic center, convenient to many of the most interesting cultural sites in this megalopolis.

Istanbul Blue Mosque from the terrace of the Ibrahim Pasha Hotel, taken on my 60th birthday with a glass of chilled white wine in hand!

After Istanbul, I flew to Kayseri and took a taxi to Göreme in Cappadocia for the next eight days of walking and culture, highlighted in my next blog post.

The Vagabond Hiker

Comments

  1. Kent, you’ll have to redo the blog since some pictures are missing. I want to see that lizard that looked like it didn’t want to be messed with.

  2. Never mind, once I posted my comment, the missing pictures came up. BTW, belated happy birthday. I tried calling back once but it was probably the middle of the night for you.

  3. Now that I’ve gone through it again, there were still two pictures that didn’t show up: 1) The bole of an ancient olive tree and 2) Another view of the Roman aqueduct.

  4. Something funky is happening with the website. After my last comment, the other two pictures showed up.

    • Tom,
      I think Bluehost has been having some issues. For almost a day I couldn’t even access my website. I thought they had been addressed, but guess they were still working on them. . .

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