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Hiking, Trekking, and Culture in the Caucasus, Part 1: Armenia

July 27, 2023

Although most of the nine days I spent in Armenia were comprised of hiking (three shorter day hikes and a four-day trek), at all times I felt deeply immersed in the culture, history, and religion of Armenia as we traveled from the capital of Yerevan to all corners of this fascinating country. Indeed, since becoming the first country in the world in 301 CE to adopt Christianity as its official religion, religion has never been far from any discussion of Armenia’s history.

The Caucasus is a geographic region located between the Black Sea to the West and the Caspian Sea to the East, essentially connecting eastern Europe with northwest Asia. (As such I have categorized them as both Europe and Asia for these blog posts). As can be seen in the map below, the mountains can be divided into the Greater and Lesser Caucasus. The trek and hikes in Armenia were of course in the Lesser range whereas my next blog post, from Georgia, will be in the Greater Caucasus Mountains.

Caucasus topographic map
(Bourrichon – fr:Bourrichon with English translations, additions, and corrections by Ketone16 (partly following Yuri Koryakov), CC BY-SA 4.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons)
Khor Virap Monastery. One of the most famous and religiously important sites in Armenia, is in the far west of this small country, close to the border with Turkey. It was our first stop on a long day of culture and hiking.
Mount Ararat in clouds from Khor Virap Monastery. Mount Ararat has a special place in every Armenian’s heart. Although located in Turkey, many refer to that area as “Western Armenia.” In fact, at 5137m, it is the highest mountain in Turkey. Note the cloud on the left of the photo that makes Little Ararat look like it’s erupting.
Smbataberd Fortress walls, seen during our first day hike, a hill traverse, in southern Armenia. Our slow pace and numerous stops during this hike were precursors of things to come.
Norovank Monastery in Gnishik gorge. This dramatically-sited monastery on our way to Lake Sevan was my favorite.
Orbelian’s caravanserai at the Selim Pass, from the 14th century. This lodging for travelers along the silk road is the best-preserved in Armenia.
Detail of Orbelian’s caravanserai entry with high reliefs of a winged animal to the left, and a bull to the right above the lintel.
Selim Pass vista near sunset. Much driving still remained, the first of three consecutive 5+ hour days of on often-decrepit roads.
Lake Sevan Best Western Hotel from pier in early AM. Lake Sevan is the largest in the Caucasus, located at 1900m above sea level. There was a wonderful heated outdoor pool; it was a shame we had no time to enjoy the facilities.
Haghpat Monastery, seen at the start of our second day’s hike, from there to Sanahin monastery. Both are on UNESCO’s World Heritage List.
An unusual khachkar at Haghpat Monastery. Most of these Armenian carved cross stelæ have a variety of motifs, but do not depict Jesus.
View back towards Haghpat Monastery, showing well the landscape in the northeast of the country. According to World Atlas, Armenia is the 6th most mountainous country in the world.
Sanahin Monastery, the end of our 2nd day of hiking. It was a beautiful and peaceful location, less encumbered by tourists than many others. Afterwards, another long transfer to our lodging for the night, not aided by a road closure due to a landslide en route.
A khachkar near the start of our 3rd day of hiking, between Kobayr Monastery and Odzun Church.
Our group on the dramatic hillside traverse from the Kobayr to Odzun. This was for me the best of our day hikes, although slow hiking with many rests, a road closed from an accident, and horrendous traffic on our return to Yerevan in the evening made for another very long day.
Day 1 of our Geghama Mountains traverse trek: Sevaberd to Ajna Lake. Here a beautiful flowered meadow vista. The Geghama Mountains lie to the east of Yerevan. While they are not particularly dramatic, my enjoyment of the trek was greatly enhanced from the lack of other hikers.
Day 2 in the Geghama Mountains was the highlight of the entire trek. Here the view is back towards our camp on the far side of Ajna lake. More wonderful wildflowers! Note some snow on the left; the late winter snows had not yet completely melted.
View towards Azhdahak Peak in the middle ground, the high point of the mountain range, on Day 2. Its summit was our objective.
The Vagabond Hiker out in front of the other clients on Day 2. Our trek leader was fairly fast. Fortunately we had two guides for only 6 clients, enabling a range of hiking speeds.
Birds eye primrose (Primula farinosa)
Gerry and other clients crossing a modest snow field
Azhdahak Peak (3597m) summit crater
On the summit of Azhdahak Peak
Pyramid Bugle (Ajuga pyramidalis). Compare to Velvetbells from my Lago di Garda post last month.
One of many petroglyphs we saw in Day 3 of our trek. Unfortunately our guide wasn’t able to explain much about them.
A Lake Vank standing stone, at our Day 3 lunch stop. The lake wasn’t particularly photogenic, hence no photo.
Day 4 of our trek: a morning view from camp with a hot air balloon in the distance. Our camp was spectacularly situated on the edge of a high plateau.
A view towards the town of Garni, our destination, on Day 4. The ruins of the Havuts Tar Monastery complex are seen in the foreground.
Havuts Tar ruins
A khachkar at Havuts Tar

After the four-day Geghama Mountains trek, one other client and I decided to leave the group and spend a night in Yerevan (which we were driving past anyway) rather than continue to a camp on Mount Aragats, the highest mountain in Armenia and a further 2 hours drive to the northwest. For several reasons, the two of us did not do that final hike, to Aragats’ South summit, the lowest and easiest of its four summits. Three of the other four clients did make the ascent the following day during a weather window. The photo below was taken by one from the South summit. Congrats to them, though I had no regrets at spending my final day in Armenia relaxing in Yerevan.

Mt Aragats South summit view towards the West and North (highest) summits

Stay tuned next week for the second installment of my Caucasus blogs, from Georgia.

The Vagabond Hiker

Armenia, Armenia, Asia, Europe Kent

Previous article
Flowers and Ferratas (and a few hikes) around Lago di Garda
Next article Hiking, Trekking, and Culture in the Caucasus, Part 2: Georgia

Comments

  1. Misty Carlson says

    August 3, 2023 at 6:07 am

    Really enjoying your pictures and words. Hope to see you this winter so I can quiz you about this trip and Georgia!

    • Kent says

      August 3, 2023 at 11:46 pm

      Thank you. Definitely! I’ll be your neighbor in Palm Springs from mid-December.

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