When my Choquequirao trek was canceled last year, I had little expectation that I would be going on this amazing trek anytime soon. But, one year on, that is exactly what happened. This time, despite having only three clients, KE Adventures elected to run the trip. As it turned out, my fourth trek in Peru was the most challenging of my life. The wildflowers we encountered are well-represented here, in part because of their sheer numbers and variety, and in part because taking the time with these macros provided a chance to catch my breath! Enjoy.
Pre-trek: Cusco area and Saywite Archeological Site
As with any trek in the Cusco region of Peru, the first couple days are spent acclimatizing in and around Cusco (elevation 3400 m) and the Sacred Valley. This time was no exception as we visited several local Incan sites as well as enjoyed a city tour.
Choquequirao Trek Overview
Sitting astride a high ridge amongst the snow-capped peaks of Peru, the Inca fortress of Choquequirao is one of the most important discoveries of Inca antiquity. Already a rival to Machu Picchu in terms of its size, if not its splendor, more buildings and llama-decorated terraces are being excavated each year. More remote and challenging to access than Machu Picchu, it is consequently far less visited and still offers one the chance to wander freely amongst the evocative ruins and explore the terraces in relative solitude. KE Adventure’s fully supported trek was by way of the awe-inspiring canyon of the Apurimac River, involving an exciting descent and ascent of almost 2000 m to reach camp beside the citadel of Choquequirao. After two half-days exploring this amazing complex, we continued trekking for five more days through the rugged and beautiful Cordillera Vilcabamba, a region dominated by impressive snowy 6000 m peaks, including Pumasillo and Salkantay.
The trek by the numbers:
- Nine days
- 78.5 total kilometers*
- 6730 meters total elevation gain*
- 4643 meters highest elevation
* I only did a partial ascent/descent on Day 7, reflected in the totals shown
Day 1: Capuliyoc to Chiquiska campsite
8 km, 120 m gain
We made a very early start from Cusco today, which included a stop at the Saywite archeological site (see previous photo) and featured lunch at the trailhead as our mules were being sorted. The afternoon hike was an easy introduction to the area, as it was mostly descending towards the Apurimac Canyon.
Day 2: Chiquiska campsite to Marampata camp
8 km, 1550 m gain
After descending to the Apurimac River, a long, tiring ascent to Marampata camp followed. I needed to have a mule carry my pack the last hour or so. A stomach bug, nausea, and concomitant dehydration made this the most difficult trekking day I’ve ever completed.
Day 3: Marampata camp to Choquequirao
9.5 km, 600 m gain
After resting and hydrating at camp (and avoiding food), I was somewhat recovered for day 3, which included an afternoon at the Choquequirao site, the first of two explorations we would have at this amazing complex.
Day 4: Choquequirao to Pincha Unuyoc
7 km, 450 m gain
After a couple hours in the morning for further exploration of Choquequirao, we continued down to Pincha Unuyoc. I was feeling better, and spent much of the hike exploring the macro capabilities of my Olympus TG-6.
Day 5: Pincha Unuyoc to Maizal
8 km, 1160 m gain
The first of three “summit” days, featuring extended ascents . . .
Day 6: Maizal to the Rio Yanama Valley
9.5 km, 1200 m gain
Our second “summit” day was to the Abra San Juan, our 2nd highest pass of the trek.
Day 7: Rio Yanama Valley to Totora village
11 km, 500 m gain*
* Reflecting my partial ascent/descent
Our “summit” on day 7 was for me a step too far. I did the first (easiest) half of the ascent and the second half (likewise more gentle) of the descent, catching the van transporting our camping supplies for the more challenging bits. (Our mules left us the evening before, exchanged for a rather clapped-out van).
Day 8: Totora to Lucmabamba
17 km, 300 m gain
After three long ascents, today’s hike – the longest of the trek – was actually not that challenging as it generally descended along the valley.
Day 9: Lucmabamba to the Urubamba Hydro Dam
11.5 km, 850 m gain
Today featured one final pass to climb, whose summit provided views towards Machu Picchu. After lunch at a restaurant, we completed the trek in the early afternoon and caught the train to Agaus Calientes for a nice hot shower at our hotel.
Post-trek: Machu Picchu
We explored this phenomenal World Heritage Site for more than three hours the morning after our trek, before returning by bus/train/private van to Cusco. It was my first visit since 2009. Only one photo since I’m sure you’ve already seen many. . .
An interesting side note regarding the artifacts that Hiram Bingham brought back to Yale from his excavations at Machu Picchu between 1911 and 1916 is that many were finally returned this past decade to Peru where some museum-quality pieces are now available to see at the Museo Casa Concha in Cusco. I highly recommend a visit there when next you are in that special city.
Once again I am back in Italy, enjoying early morning walks and hikes in the Arco area of Trentino, before the heat of the day drives me indoors. Next week I relocate to northern Brescia in Lombardy, to the west of the Dolomites proper. Surrounded by two large national parks, it is an area of northern Italy that I have not explored, and promises some very interesting hiking. Either my upcoming month in Brescia or a recently completed “City Break” trip will be the subject of my next blog post. Until then, stay cool outdoors,
The Vagabond Hiker
Your trips are so amazing! I loved the llama steps. What a journey! Thanks as always for sharing.
You’re welcome. My pleasure!
Great post, Kent!
Amazing trek! I can only imagine how challenging the 1550m ascent was with stomach issues. Love the wildflowers.