The Vagabond Hiker

Hiking, trekking, and climbing the world

Mount Toubkal, Morocco

In August 2019 I posted photos from a two week trekking trip of the High Atlas Mountains in Morocco, on which our KE group attempted four 4000m (13,130 ft) peaks, including Mount Toubkal, the highest point in North Africa. Although I summitted the other three, Mount Toubkal eluded me due to an untimely gout flare up. Four years later I returned for a weekend (!) of hiking to complete that unfinished business. . .

Friday: Arrival in Marrakech

Flying from Milan via Lisbon required the best part of the day. Having no checked luggage, my biggest worry was having my trekking poles confiscated by the security. However, they – and I – made it to our Riad (traditional inn) located just outside of the Medina (walled city). An oasis in this chaotic city.

Riad Alida courtyard, Marrakech
Dar Marjana terrace, where I had my first Moroccan dinner and a glass of chilled white wine, about a two minute walk from Riad Alida.

Saturday: Approach hike to Mouflons Refuge

Following the path nearly everyone takes who wishes to climb Toubkal, we left the road head at Imlil Village late morning following a two hour drive from Marrakech. Our strong group of four clients and one guide had about 11km and 1500m of ascent to accomplish.

The hillside hamlet of Aroumd, near the start of our trek, heading up the Ait Mizane Valley
Hiking towards the Shrine Sidi Chamharouch (white dome in the middle of the photo). Our cook prepared a traditional Moroccan lunch for us here (the halfway point), with a salad and tagine – vegetable in my case.
Cascade Sidi Chamharouch. There was a lot more water flowing than 4 years ago, due to a relatively wet winter.
Mouflons (left) and Neltner refuges with the start of the Toubkal summit route seen here. The actual summit is far above to the left.
Toubkal as seen from the summit of Ouanoukrim (4089m). The climbing route is not visible here, off to the left. I took this photo in 2019.

Sunday: Summit day and return to Marrakech

Many summiters start at a reasonable hour, say 7 AM. However, this compressed weekend trip meant we had not only to summit – about 1000m of ascent on an often rough, bouldery trail – but trek back all the way to Imlil. A wake up call at 3 AM and departure before 4:30 was the solution.

Dawn on the flanks of Toubkal. By this time we were almost to the top.
Alpenglow on Ouanoukrim at dawn
The Vagabond Hiker on Toubkal summit (4167m). It was a chilly, windy hike in the pre-dawn hours, but probably not below freezing.
Goats and goatherd on descent. My biggest concern was my knees on the 2500m (8000+ ft.) of descent, but that proved unfounded.
Our group back in the shade, approaching Imlil after a long day.
Koutoubia Mosque at sunset from our Marrakech terrace restaurant where we celebrated a 100% success rate.

Monday: return home

After any endeavor of this nature, a let down is natural, and so it was with me as I headed home, a long day of travel back through Lisbon to Milan, followed by a 3 hour drive to my apartment above Riva del Garda. After a couple of days to decompress and wait for the weather to improve, I am back hiking and climbing Via Ferrate for another week before my summer adventures continue from my base near Windsor, England. I may do a short post at the end of my sojourn in Italy as it has been nearly three years since I’ve been in the Lago di Garda region, and then not during the spring flower bloom.

The Vagabond Hiker

Day hikes on Cape Verde

Located just off the coast of Africa, over 1000 miles south of the Canary Islands, the Cape Verde (Cabo Verde in Portuguese) archipelago is a walker’s paradise. Our KE group spent almost two weeks exploring its rugged coastlines and fertile terraced volcanic slopes and immersing ourselves in the islands’ Creole Portuguese-African culture. Our trip started in the largest and most populated island, Santiago. A short flight then took us to the nearby island of Fogo, known for its wine and its eponymous volcano, the high point of the country at 2829m (9280 ft).

Topographic map of the Cape Verde archipelago. Our hikes were on Fogo in the Leeward islands to the south and Santo Antao, the northern most windward island.
Fogo, the highest point in Cape Verde. Our first hike skirted its western slopes.
Lava formations near Cha das Caldeiras, which translates as “Caldera Plain”
A crater near Cha das Caldeiras on Fogo, the high point of our short hike on the first day
Early morning on our hike to the summit of Fogo. We started early to beat the heat.
Unknown yellow flower on Fogo
A bit of scrambling on Fogo’s summit block
The Vagabond Hiker on the summit of Fogo, 2829m
View north from Fogo’s summit
Our third hike on the island of Fogo was through the Monte Velha forest towards the north coast
Trying out the zoom on my new Panasonic Lumix on this Cape Verde sparrow I saw on the Monte Velha forest walk. We also saw lots of Eurasian Kestrels throughout Cape Verde, but they were somewhat more challenging to photograph.
Road building Monte Velha forest. These rugged cobblestone roads were all over Cape Verde, some made originally by slaves

After three hikes in Fogo’s arid landscape, we flew to Sao Vicente and next morning took a short ferry to the most northerly island, Santo Antao. The group spent a week walking amidst the sub-tropical jagged mountains. Santo Antao is the second largest island and an absolute haven for hikers. (Due to the coronavirus, I chose to return to the UK after the first two outstanding walks). I hated to leave Cape Verde, a beautiful and remote walking destination with stunning views of rugged coastlines set in the middle of the turquoise blue ocean.

Our first hike on Santo Antao was from the village of Cha d’Orgueiro down to the coast
Another view of the Cha d’Orgueiro village to sea walk
Apple of Sodom plant. We saw a lot of these, which have some medicinal uses, on this hike
Detail of the flower of the Apple of Sodom
Joe looking out at the landscape on the Cha d’Orgueiro village to sea walk
The Vagabond Hiker on the Cha d’Orgueiro village to sea walk. The water channels reminded me of those on Madeira last year. Photo courtesy of Joe.
The small beach we reached after more than 1000m (3300 ft) descent
Of course, we then had about 400m (1300 ft) to ascend to our vehicle.
Cliffs and sea looking west into the sun
Our second hike on Santo Antao began just above the village we were staying in, Cha de Morte. It’s named for the one cemetery on the island which is nearby.
Some of our group near the start of the 1000-plus meter ascent to a plateau near the Topo da Coroa
We saw several locals getting water with their donkeys from a rare spring. Rainfall has decreased dramatically from when the Portuguese discovered these uninhabited islands in the fifteenth century.
Rock formations at the pass onto the plateau
The plateau and some goats. In the past it was much greener; now it is green only in autumn after the short rainy season.
An unidentified purple flower on the plateau above Cha de Morte
Some cave dwellings along the plateau. The high point of Santo Antao is Topo da Coroa, just visible in the background
A panorama shot looking back down from where we started at Cha de Morte
View back up to the plateau. Much of the trail we hiked this day was built by slaves.

Although I made it back to England without any problems, as I write this the other eleven are still hiking on Santo Antao. I am not certain when my next blog post will come. I have cancelled my next two trips, to Jordan and the Azores, which were to take place in the coming month. Instead, I will spend the next seven weeks here in Hastings, then take a train out to the far west of Cornwall (assuming travel within the country is permitted) where I have rented a cottage near the Southwest Coast Path for five weeks until mid-June. My current plan is to post from that special part of England. In the mean time, stay safe while enjoying the outdoors,

The Vagabond Hiker

Trekking Morocco’s High Atlas

Last week I returned to England after a two week trekking journey through the High Atlas Mountains of Morocco. In addition to the summit of North Africa’s highest peak, Mount Toubkal (4167m, 13670 ft), the KE Adventures itinerary included the summits of Ouanoukrim (4089m), Adrar n’Dern (4001m) and Bouiguinoussem (4025m). Apart from the demanding summit climbs and wonderful trekking through breath-taking landscapes and over high passes, our group of 13 got to experience some of the culture of the remote Berber villages nestled in picturesque valleys of the Central Atlas range.

Here’s a map of Morocco. Toubkal and the Central High Atlas are to the east and south of Marrakech, our starting and finishing point on this adventure. When I trekked in Morocco in the winter of 2014, it was further south in the Anti Atlas, bordering the Sahara.
Above the village of Oukaimeden on Day 1. The haze (particulates from the Sahara?) was persistent throughout the trek, with the exception of a couple of days following strong winds.
A remote Berber village house in the morning light on Day 3.
Jeep track descending to the valley of Setti Fatma, Day 3
The valley of Setti Fatma. Our camp was set up in the nearest village seen here.
River Cafe, village of Setti Fatma. Many locals visit this mountain village at the road end to escape summer heat and enjoy the rivers and waterfall.
The Vagabond Hiker enjoying a Power Shower in the Setti Fatma waterfall. Photo courtesy of our guide, Rachid.
A pleasant riparian path at the start of Day 4. Our longer days started at dawn or even earlier to avoid the afternoon heat and potential of thunderstorms.
A gnarled Spanish Juniper seen on Day 4. Some of these amazing trees are more than 400 years old.
A remote Berber hamlet perched on the side of a mountain which we passed Day 4. Talk about a hard life!
Our shady lunch spot on Day 4. On many days the cook crew would set up our lunch of salad, a grain (pasta, couscous, rice), tinned fish, and fruit. A pleasant two hours spent spent eating, reading, soaking our feet in a stream, and napping would pass quickly enough.
A typical salad our hard-working crew prepared for us at lunch. Although this photo was taken when I visited in 2014, the lunches on this trek were very similar.
Goats seen while we were heading up the Tizi n’Boukchoud pass (2976m) on Day 5. As fun as they are to watch, they do devastate the landscape.
A young goatherd and one of her charges on the Jbel Amlal.
Our group in the early morning to the summit of Adrar n’Dern on Day 6. The moon was full a couple of nights previously.
Our group climbing to summit of Adrar n’Dern. Lots of boulders but no real scrambling on the first of our 4000m peaks.
The Vagabond Hiker on the summit of Adrar n’Dern (4001m). The high point in the distance on the right is Mount Toubkal. Our ascent route a week later on Toubkal would be from the other side.
Some of our group on the scree descent of Adrar n’Dern. The boot skiing here was fantastic!
View across the Tizi n’Ourai to the Berber village of Amsouzart on Day 7
A rare trailside flower not covered in thorns that escaped the goats, near the Tizi n’Ourai
Green valley near the Berber village of Amsouzart, where we spent a night in a basic gite and enjoyed hot showers.
Day 8 morning view looking back on the green valley near the Berber village of Amsouzart that we first saw on our descent the previous day.
Lake Ifni, our lunch and swim spot. It is the largest lake in the Central Atlas and our three hour break enabled some of us to enjoy a swim and sun bathing.
Our camp at a stream confluence in a gorge above Lake Ifni. Our orange tents are in the bottom center of this photo.
Looking back on the gorge we ascended to start our climb of Ouanoukrim on Day 9
Mount Toubkal from the summit of Ouanoukrim (4089m)
Neltner (Mt Toubkal) refuge and our camp (orange tents to the right of the refuge compound). Located at 3200m, it was our highest camp. Hot showers in the refuge were greatly appreciated after a long day.

The following day, Day 10, was our ascent of Mt Toubkal. While it is the highest mountain in northern Africa, Toubkal was also the easiest (and by far the most crowded) ascent of the trip. To avoid the long scree ascent and the crowds, The Vagabond Hiker had his gout flare up, ensuring a restful day in camp. All the other clients successfully summitted. For several, it was their personal high point.

On Day 11 we attempted our most technically challenging peak, Bouguinoussen. Here two guides and some of our group are ascending above the Tizi Tadate (Pass of the Finger). The scrambling actually wasn’t all that hard, but fun nonetheless.
The Vagabond Hiker on the summit of Bouguinoussen (4025m) with Elizabeth and Ruth. Only five clients made this summit.
View from the summit of Bouguinoussen. The haze had returned after a couple of days respite.
Part of our 1600m (one mile vertical) descent route to our final camp after summitting Bouguinoussen. Amazingly my knees held up alright.
A waterfall on our descent from Bouguinoussen. No Power Shower here, but a kiosk with an enterprising young man selling cold drinks was welcome.
Sunset view from final camp with tents. Our muleteers set up and took down all the clients’ tents at every camp and the cook and mess tents at most camps.
Morning valley view with fields on the final day (Day 12 of the trek). The terraced farms are irrigated from the mountain streams. The farmers grow barley and wheat, typically with a second crop of corn or potatoes each year.
Spanish Junipers on the final morning of trek.
A few of our eight mules passing us on the final morning of trekking. The muleteers always arrived at camp and set it up before we got there. While they didn’t always follow the high trails and of course did no summits, their strength and stamina were amazing. (That goes for the mules, too).
Some geological folding seen on final morning entering Imlil village. For those geologists among you, I can recommend the open online book chapter entitled “Structural Geological Analysis of the High Atlas (Morocco): Evidences of a Transpressional Fold-Thrust Belt“
Imlil Valley vista. The village of Imlil is the starting point for more than 90% of the visitors that climb Toubkal. For us it was the end point of our 12 days trekking. We stayed the final night in a gite with hot showers and comfortable beds. It was with decidedly mixed feelings that we arrived back in civilization.
Having a morning free in Marrakech at the conclusion of the trek, several of us visited the Majorelle Gardens, an oasis of tranquillity and shade amidst the frenetic heat of the city. I took this photo and the lunch photo when I visited in 2014. There is also another out of place trekking photo from 2014. Did you spot it?

One week from today I fly to Verona, Italy to enjoy the next 6 1/2 weeks in the Italian Alps, Dolomites, and on Lago Garda. I’m looking forward to seeing some of you there! Until then, “Keep Hiking, Keep Living”

The Vagabond Hiker

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