The Vagabond Hiker

Hiking, trekking, and climbing the world

Trekking the ancient Kingdom of Mustang, Nepal

This past week I returned from a “reconnaissance” expedition into a rarely visited corner of the Nepal Himalaya. This trip was billed as a trekking and climbing holiday, taking the intrepid traveler from the ancient Buddhist kingdom of Mustang, through the stunning Damodar Himal to the only-recently-accessible valleys of Naar and Phu.

The initial approach to Mustang took our group of 12 clients through the Kali Gandaki (arguably the deepest valley in the world) and into an arid and starkly beautiful region of Nepal, colored red, grey and yellow by natural earth pigments and highlighted by picturesque white-washed villages and red-painted monasteries. After our first week of trekking, exploration and necessary acclimatization, including 2 nights at the walled city of Lo Manthang, we headed up into the Damodar Himal with the intention of climbing Saribung Peak (6328 meters) and crossing the Saribung Pass (6020 meters) before descending into the only recently-accessible Naar and Phu and rejoining the popular Annapurna Circuit route.  As it transpired, we would never even reach the Saribung basecamp.

A zoom shot of the sacred mountain of Machapuchare (aka Fishtail) from the roof of our Pokhara hotel at sunset. From Pokhara we were scheduled to fly to Jomson the next day and then take Jeeps to Kagbeni to start the trek, but high katabatic winds closed Jomson airstrip (a common occurrence), necessitating a 10 hour Jeep ride from Pokhara.

Mustang

Sheltered by some of the world’s highest mountains, the 8000-meter peaks of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri, bordering China and the Tibetan plateau, lies the ancient “Forbidden Kingdom” of Mustang, also known as the Land of Lo. Off limits to foreigners until 1992, Mustang retains its ancient culture almost intact, and remains one of the last strongholds of traditional Tibetan life. The region is still difficult to access and foreign visitors are required to obtain a Restricted Area Permit at a price of $500 for 10 days, high by Nepali standards.

Road along the Kali Gandaki in Upper Mustang on Day 2 of our trek, north of Kagbeni
Another view of the Kali Gandaki, on Day 3 of our trek
Syangboche village on Day 3. Stacked wood is seen on the roofs of many homes. Limiting cutting of dead wood is permitted at certain times each year.
Looking south to Annapurna I on Day 3 (center, zoom)
Autumnal colors seen in a riparian ecosystem on Day 3
Wild goats on Day 3 in the Ghyakar Khola Gorge (zoom). Though lacking in vistas of 8000 meter peaks, this gorge was arguably the most spectacular hiking on the whole trip.
Samar village where we stayed on the third night of the trek
A typical Mustangi chorten (stupa) seen on Day 4
One of our many river crossings, on Day 4
Vista on Day 4 near the Ghemi La (pass)
Mustangi chortens and man-made caves on Day 4. Some of these caves were used by those escaping Tibet from Chinese oppression.
Some of our group at the Mui La, Day 5
Entry to the Ghar Gompa Monastery complex on Day 5
Two of our photogs at the Ghar La, Day 5

The capital of Lo Manthang is home to the Loba people, the original inhabitants of Mustang. A walled city (village actually) dating from 1380, it is considered by some scholars to be the best preserved medieval fortress to the world and is a UNESCO World Heritage candidate.

Starkly beautiful vista towards Lo Manthang on Day 5
traditional Lo Manthang transport, Day 5
Courtyard of our Lo Manthang lodge, the Paradise Holiday Inn (!), where we spent two nights, enabling us time to do our laundry and see the sights
Typical houses on the outskirts of Lo Manthang
Lo Manthang alley in the walled village
Colorful windows in Lo Manthang
Prayer wheels in a Lo Manthang Mani Wall
Young kids with mom in Lo Manthang

The Damodar Himal

Departing Lo Manthang, we trekked to the village of Yara, the last habitation before heading into the Damodar Himal, where we planned to camp for 7 nights as we made the crossing of Saribung Pass.  After more than a week in lodges ranging from rustic rooms with a squat toilet down the hall to ensuite ‘hotel’ rooms with hot showers, camping in remote gorges and even remoter mountains would be a dramatic change.

That’s where everything went south.

The decision was made to combine two trekking days, eliminating one camp. Thus we ascended more than 1100 meters in a single day, from 3600 m at Yara to 4745 m at the pilgrims’ shelter at Ghuma Thanti, crossing a 4900 m pass on this epic 9-hour day.  We arrived at camp as the twilight gave way to a starry, cold night.  By 9 PM the last of the porters finally arrived, completely shattered.   The next day we continued over an unnamed 5300 meter pass and then down to the Bharche Khola (4900 m) where we set up our second camp.  After a cold night (-12C) we were anticipating the tough hike over the Damodar Kund Ridge and a 5500 m pass before descending down to the the sacred lake of Damodar Kund (4890m).  Then an emergency medical situation arose with one of the camp porters in the early hours of the morning. Suffering from pulmonary edema, three times he had to be revived when his heart stopped.  After calling in a helicopter with our sat phone and fashioning a makeshift stretcher, he was carried up to a nearby plateau where the chopper arrived to take him and another porter to Kathmandu for treatment.  (Eventually we heard that both porters had fully recovered). The cold nights, combined with the near death of one of their friends, spooked some of the other porters, who refused to continue the trip.  The decision was made to spend a second night at the Barche Khola before retracing most of our steps back to Kagbeni where Jeeps would take us to Jomson for the dramatic flight back to Pokhara.  It would take a week to get back to Jomson, a disappointing, though understandable, conclusion to our trip.

Prayer flags and vista from the Dhi La, Day 7
Day 7 Kali Gandaki river crossing
Yara village, seen on Day 7
Autumnal colors at Yara village, Day 7
The Luri Gompa surrounded by numerous caves, on Day 8. Most of the monastery was located on a nearby plateau.
Ascending to a pass on the Yaripangje Danda, Day 8
Porters descending towards the Bharche Khola on Day 9
The Vagabond Hiker at the high pass (5320 m), Day 11 on our return. Saribung Peak is barely visible to the immediate right of the flag pole here.
Our pack mules on Day 11. They carried much of our camp food to the Damadar Kund, but would not have been able to go further.
Dhaulagiri Peak on Day 12 (zoom). Mustang is in the rain shadow of this massive 8000-meter peak, accounting for much of the aridity of the landscape.
A Mustangi chorten along the road to China, Day 14. A good deal of the trekking was along roads.
Chorten detail
A herd of goats moving to winter pasture, Day 14
Trash everywhere on Day 14. The town shall remain nameless, but sadly it was typical.
Entering the Ghyakar gorge for the second time, on the return, Day 15
The Vagabond Hiker on the pass after climbing out of the Ghyakar Gorge on Day 15
Our young local leader, Suzil, in characteristic pose on the same pass, Day 15

With the ongoing construction of a road though Mustang that will connect China with Nepal, the region is seeking to regain its strategic location. For centuries caravans roamed the Kali Gandaki between Tibet, China and India, with salt, yak wool, cereals, dried meat, spices and other goods. When the road is completed, it will become the most accessible Himalayan corridor and Mustang will inevitably change. While the inhabitants of Mustang understand the road’s importance, they risk losing their culture and identity. For those wishing to trek through Upper Mustang, do it soon.

Graffiti supporting the Communist Party of Nepal (Maoist Centre), north of Kagbeni, Day 16. The first of two rounds of elections following the adoption of the 2015 Constitution will be held on November 26.

Today I depart the UK for Auckland and the austral spring and summer of New Zealand, where I will be spending some 10 weeks ranging widely from the Northlands on the North Island to the Catlins at the far southern end of the South Island for Christmas.  Expect two or three blog posts from my time exploring New Zealand.  Then on to a multi-week trip to Sri Lanka before returning to Europe in early March.

In the meantime, enjoy some good hiking with friends and family over the Holidays,

The Vagabond Hiker

Thoughts on Ueli Steck and my upcoming climb of Pik Lenin

As I plan and train for my next alpine climb, I reflect on the recent sad passing of one of the mountaineering greats of this – or any – generation, Ueli Steck.  Known as the “Swiss Machine,” Ueli became famous to the public with his record-setting solo climbs of the Eiger Nordwand.  When he fell to his death on April 30th, Ueli was acclimatizing to climb Everest by the West Ridge, followed by traversing to summit Lhotse, something that has never been accomplished.  All solo and without oxygen, of course.  Ueli’s passion, dedication, fantastic physical condition, and technical excellence on different terrain put him head and shoulders above most other mountaineers.  But beyond his mountaineering accomplishments (recently he summited all 82 4,000 m Alpine peaks in one season, for example), he embodied the humility of how one should approach the mountains.

Although me going on a guided climb up Pik Lenin in the Pamir Mountains of Kyrgyzstan cannot be compared to any of Ueli’s elite mountaineering accomplishments, he recently said:

“There are many peaks in this world and everyone can find their own mountain – depending on what they are looking for. Eventually everyone will find their own Everest.”

Pik Lenin will be a first for me in more ways than one.  In the Pamir Mountains between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, Pik Lenin is one of five 7,000 meter mountains in the former Soviet Union, the summitting of all of which completes the Snow Leopard Challenge.  Although not technical, it is a long, physically challenging alpine climb, with three or four camps established above base camp.  At 7,134 meters, it will be far higher than any mountains I have climbed in the Andes.  To successfully acclimatize will require more than two weeks on the mountain, a true expedition peak.  Bad weather at some point is inevitable.  So much so, in fact, that few have summitted the past two years.

That said, I am going with the British company Adventure Peaks (https://www.adventurepeaks.com), who in the past have had good team success reaching the summit, partly because of an option for an extra camp (at 6,400 meters) to help shorten the very long summit day.  This year they have added two more contingency days for weather, giving the team many as six days to reach the top.  I’ll be leaving for Osh on August 11, returning from Kyrgyzstan on or before September 5th.  I have updated my Calendar in this blog to reflect this trip.  (I also changed the width of the content, removing the side bar, to better allow viewing the photos).

Until then, my blog posts will diminish both in length and frequency as my focus will be on training.  While there are many reasons that I might not be able to reach the summit, I certainly don’t want lack of conditioning to be among them.  In the mean time, here’s a photo of me last September on the lower summit of Huayna Potosi (6,087m)  in Bolivia:

“Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow” – Ueli Steck, 1976-2017

Happy trails, wherever they may take you,

The Vagabond Hiker

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