The Vagabond Hiker

Hiking, trekking, and climbing the world

Bhutan’s Snowman Trek, Part 2: Lunana

Happy Thanksgiving from Lanzarote!

Among many blessings I have to be thankful for, the first which comes to mind is that it is sunny and 72 degrees here, perfect for hiking or swimming in the ocean (ok, the water is a bit cool). With Great Britain underwater and much of the US remaining in the grip of multiple storms, there are worse places I could be writing this blog from than the Canaries. . .

Leaving Laya after the Royal Highlander Festival, the trekking moved quite literally to a whole other level. The altitudes were higher, the weather colder and more unsettled, and the distances and elevation gains more serious. I was loving it.

A stupa (memorial containing sacred relics) seen on day 13, a relatively easy first day after our rest.
The Mo Chu river along which we walked much of day 13
Yaks crossing a bridge as we approached our camp on day 13. The weather definitely was detiorating at this point!
Me at Tsome La (5100m) on day 14. This pass was actually the start of a long crossing of a barren alpine plateau.
Our day 14 camp was in a valley known locally for its high snowfall. That night proved no exception.
The sun makes a welcome appearance on day 15 before the Karakachu La
The view from the Karakachu La (5080m) on day 15
Our group on the Karakachu La. Somehow I’m front and center here.
Our path along the Tarina Valley on day 16
It was nice to be below treeline, even if only for a short time. I saw this interesting flower farther along the Tarina Valley on day 16.
Vista of Kangphu Gang on day 17
Yaks seen going descending from Keche La as we were heading up on on day 17. Yaks must stay above 3000m, so non-trekking tourists in Bhutan don’t usually see them.
Keche La (4500m) with prayer flags and some of our group. I had ascended a little above the pass for this photo.
Chozo village on day 19, our third and final rest (and shower!) day. Though lacking electricity, Chozo actually had decent cell reception as the tower is solar-powered.
Our lunch spot by a lake on our way to the Sinthey La (5200m) on day 21. The two containers have our tea and hot lunch the cook had prepared for us that morning.
Lake Tsochena ringed by mountains on the descent from Sinthey La
Some of our horses and mules ascending the Rinchen Zoe La (5320m) on day 23, our highest point on the trek . Because of relatively good weather, we didn’t need any yaks to break trail through the snow, “only” the 37 equines.
A 270 deg. panorama seen from the Rinchen Zoe La (5320m, 17,454 ft). Gangkhar Puensum (7570m, 24,836 ft), the highest unclimbed mountain in the world, is at left-center, “peaking” out from behind lower mountains. Since 1994, climbing mountains in Bhutan higher than 6,000m has been prohibited out of respect for local spiritual beliefs, and since 2003 mountaineering has been forbidden completely.
The Vagabond Hiker from a few meters above the Rinchen Zoe La. It wasn’t really all that warm; I was simply switching jackets when I took a self-timer photo!
Clouds reflected in a lake descending from the Rinchen Zoe La
Our picturesque camp above Tampe Tsho lake on day 23. We were hit by several inches of snow that night, clear from the next photo. . .
Leaving camp for the Tampe La (4600m) on day 24. The pass is the obvious notch on the left, not visible from here.
The Vagabond Hiker on Tampe La (4600m) on day 24, our 11th and final high pass of the trek!
Monochrome vista of the sacred Om Thso Lake seen on our descent from Tampe La. There wasn’t much color anyway!
Panorama of the second (unnamed) lake on our descent to Maurothang, still day 24. Rhododendrons are seen in the foreground. If I ever come back to Bhutan, it will be in the spring to see them all in flower.
Prayer flags on our descent to Maurothang, our final camp
Our final camp by the river with my tent on the far left
An interesting flower seen as we approach the road head on the final day

While greenery was much appreciated after days of barren vistas, the final day of trekking was more mud and yak shit than anything else. However, the Bhutanese trekking agency met us at the road head with our vans and conjured up a fine lunch, including cold Bhutanese beer and wine. A great welcome back to civilization!

On our drive back to the capital Thimphu the next day we visited the famous Punakha Dzong, at the confluence of the Mo and Po (mother and father) Rivers. I took this photo in 2012 on my first trip to Bhutan as the light was better.
A magestic Bodhi tree (Ficus religiosa) in the Punakha Dzong courtyard
Driving to Thimphu, we crossed the Dochu La, known for its recently-constructed 108 stupas. This vista (photo also taken in 2012) includes Table Mountain, (center) and Gangkhar Puensum (right, just visible beside the tree).

After a farewell dinner in Thimphu where we said goodbye to our guides, the next afternoon we flew back to Kathmandu. Unfortunately, I did not have a window seat for what is easily the most spectacular commercial flight in the world, parallel to the spine of the Himalayas: the one hour trip features ring-side views of five the six highest mountains in the world. Oh, well, maybe next time.

I will publish one more blog this year featuring a few photos from the south coast of England near Hastings, where I spent so much time this past year and will spend several weeks next year. The blog will also detail some of my travel plans for 2020. Until then, keep hiking!

The Vagabond Hiker

Bhutan’s Snowman Trek, Part 1: Laya

Lazing in Lanzarote, the Bhutanese Himalayas seem a world away. A change in attitude without much of a corresponding change in latitude (to plagiarize Jimmy Buffett). The motivation for me is higher in the actual doing than in the analyzing. Indeed, I’ve taken far more time reviewing, selecting, editing, and uploading photos than I had imagined, even to the extent of looking over and including some of the photos from my first trip to Bhutan in 2012.

Arguably one of the most spectacular walks in the world, Bhutan’s incredible Snowman Trek follows the spine of the Himalaya between Bhutan and Tibet, from Paro in the west to Trongsa in the east. During the course of this 25 day trek, our group of ten crossed 11 passes in excess of 4500 meters (14,760 ft), including 5 over 5000 meters (16,400 ft), and visited the almost separate mountain kingdom of Lunana, one of the remotest inhabited valleys on the planet.

Tourist/trekking map of Bhutan, showing the Snowman trek route from Paro to Trongsa in Northwest Bhutan.

Along the way we journeyed through fabled villages like Laya, walked beneath 6- and 7000-meter peaks, including Chomolhari, the astounding Jichu Drake, and the World’s highest unclimbed peak, Gangkar Puensum. We also had time to absorb some of the incredible culture of this unique Himalayan Kingdom, with visits to the spectacular cliff-face Taktsang ‘Tiger’s Nest’ Monastery and the picturesque Punakha Dzong as well as two mountain festivals with which our trek was timed to coincide.

The Snowman Trek can easily be divided into two: the first, lower altitude and more traveled portion from Shana (where the road now ends) to Laya, and the second, more strenuous, higher and more remote, from Laya through Lunana, in our variant ending at Sephu. I likewise chose to divide my blog into two parts.

The famous Taktsang (“Tiger’s Nest”) Monastery, the objective of our pre-trek acclimatization hike. Fortunately for all, one manifestly unfit trekker quit after this hike, reducing our number to ten. Almost $10,000 spent for essentially a single hike!
Group photo with our two guides at the start of the trek on day 1. A wide diversity of backgrounds, including Polish, Italian, Swiss, and Australian, as well as American and British, made for an interesting trip.
A stream crossing early on day 1. Note the mani wheel.
Chomolhari, 7326m on the Tibetan border, seen on day 2 (zoom). The first portion of the Snowman Trek follows the very popular Chomolhari Trek route.
The Hermit’s Cave on day 2. The cave is in the cliffs to the right of the temple. Very few Westerners have ever visited – or ever will – as the locals are closing this sacred site to trekkers after this season.
Edelweiss, seen here on day 3. They seem far more common here than in the Alps, though most were past their prime this late in the season.
More flowers seen on day 3. The berries are from a different plant.
Chomolhari Mountain Festival dancers on day 4. This was a small celebration presided over by the minister of health.
On our descent into camp on day 5. Our tents are the orange dots in the valley.
Trumpet gentians. These flowers were ubiquitous, existing (if not thriving) as high as 5100 meters (16,730 ft.)!
Lake seen on our day 6 acclimatization hike with the distinctive Jitchu Drake behind
Local School children and our leader Tshering at Jangothang. We visited this elementary school on the way out of the village on day 7.
A vibrant trail-side flower on day 7.
Blue sheep (Bharal) on day 7, one of two herds of this Himalayan goat (caprid) species that we saw during the trek.
Our day 7 village campsite. Men from this village were having an archery contest with a neighboring village during our visit. Although I’ve avoided including photos showing high tension wires, the electrification of Laya three years ago has made the area seem less remote.
A typical Bhutanese style house leaving the village on day 8. Much of the recent prosperity of many of the villages bordering Tibet is due to the trade in Cordyceps Sinensis, the caterpillar fungus considered by the Chinese (and others) to exhibit aphrodisiacal qualities.
Tiger Mountain (Gangchen Tang) in the clouds on day 8 (zoom).
Spanish Moss and autumn colors below tree line (which is about 4200 m, 13,800 ft). Much of the first part of the trek was in the forest and sub-alpine environment
A wind-sculpted Juniper tree on day 8.
A taste of things to come. The terrain walking towards the Shinge La on day 10.
Shinge La, our first 5000m pass, on day 10. We quickly descended to warmer and less windy climes.
Some of our horses before loading on the morning of day 11. We had as many as 37 horses to transport our luggage and camp equipment.
View nearing Laya on day 11. Our second of three hot water bucket showers during the trek was enjoyed this afternoon in camp. Tshering did not want our smell to offend the locals during the next day’s festival!
Local family at the Laya Royal Highlander festival, day 12. We enjoyed this annual festival on our second rest day. This photo (and the two following) are courtesy of Stephen, who had a much better facility of taking people pics (and a better camera to do it with) than did I!
Laya Royal Highlander Festival, day 12. Note the conical hats the Laya women wear. They all enjoyed having their photos taken.
Another of Stephen’s great photos from the Laya Highlander Festival.

I attempted a video of a dance from the festival. Even though I compressed it, it may take a few minutes to load…

Stay tuned for the Snowman Trek, Part 2: Lunana in a few days.

The Vagabond Hiker

Trekking India’s Kumaon Himalaya

The little-known region of Kumaon, comprising the eastern portion of the Indian state of  Uttarakhand, is arguably the centerpiece of the Indian Himalaya, dominated by the awe-inspiring Nanda Devi and Nanda Devi East. Often overlooked by trekkers, it offers wild unspoiled landscapes far removed from the pilgrimage hordes and most mechanized traffic. The trekking route we took is located close to the border of western Nepal and Tibet, following an ancient trade route to the latter in a remote corner of Kumaon.

Starting in the village of Munsyari, our Exodus Travels group of 12 clients, two guides, three camp support staff, and four muleteers  trekked through small settlements and pristine forests following the Gori Ganga River to the historic settlement of Milam. Milam was a thriving village trading with Tibet before the war with China in 1962. We then trekked up to the Pachu Glacier with its spectacular views of Nanda Devi and Nanda Devi East.  At 7,816 meters, the former is the highest mountain completely within India (Kanchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world, is on the border with Nepal).  Enjoy the photos I took on this remote and spectacular 11 day trek.

Day 1. Munsyari hotel view of the Kamaon Himalaya (also referred to as the Eastern Gharwal Himalaya). This town, 1.5 days driving from the Kathgodam railhead, was the starting point of our 11 day trek.

Day 1. At these lower elevations, though it was late in the season, goats were still to be seen.

Day 1. An orchid which I have not attempted to identify.

Day 1.  A Kashmir Rock Agama. We saw quite a few of these 6-8 inch long lizards at the lower elevations (under 3000 meters).

Day 1. Some of our donkeys crossing a stream. We had around 15 donkeys to carry much of our personal equipment, our food, tents, etc. Early on the muleteers were drunk and lazy, which led to delays in setting up camp several nights.

Day 1. A rather bold Neptis hylas (unknown subspecies) seen at our lunch break.

Day 1. A partial rainbow at Lilam camp where we stayed on the first night. At only 1850 meters, it was still warm in this cramped hillside camp.

Day 2. The Gori Ganga. We would follow this river, sometimes hundreds of feet above its deep gorge, for much of the trek.

Day 3. A white-capped water red-start (Phoenicurus leucocephalus). I thought at first it was a wagtail because of its behavior.

Day 3. A side stream into the Gori Ganga. Numerous side streams and waterfalls punctuated our journey.

Day 3. A spectacular waterfall into the Gori Ganga with four Exodus clients.

Day 3. The Gori Ganga valley at a point where it had opened up somewhat. The trail (actually a jeep track here) is clearly visible on the left hand side above the valley.

Day 3. Some of our group crossing a side stream of the Gori Ganga.

Day 3. A scree descent. Numerous landslides during the last monsoon created some challenging footing on the trek.

Day 4. The Gori Ganga valley above Railkot. Absolutely spectacular.

Day 5. The Milam glacier overlook. This day was an aberration from the generally good post-monsoon weather. This was the first of three optional day hikes where we stayed at the same camp for two consecutive nights.  A great chance to catch up on laundry!

Day 5. The outskirts of Milam, the furthest north village towards Tibet. The red shrubs are barberry. Trading has historically made the inhabitants relatively wealthy, but that all changed in 1962 after the Chinese attacked an unprepared India. The passes beyond Milam have been closed since ever since.

Day 6. Part of the Milam border post with a view towards Tibet. Photography was forbidden, but I sneaked a couple of pics anyway.

Day 6. Our Milam campsite. The clients had eight tents (the yellow ones were shared, the green ones for single travelers) and, importantly, two lavatory tents.  There was also a cook tent and a smallish mess tent that we crammed into for breakfast and dinner.

Day 6. Tirsuli (r) and Hardeol (l), two 7000 meter peaks to the North.

Day 6. Some flowers in deserted Pachu village. The villages we past were mostly abandoned, though a few locals still farm and have summer grazing pastures.

Day 6. Our first view of Nanda Devi East. The trees are birches, already changing color at this elevation (about 3400 meters).

Day 6. One of our donkeys with Nanda Devi behind in clouds.

Day 7. Morning alpenglow on Nanda Devi (r) and Nanda Devi East (l). The ridge connecting them is about 2 kilometers long. I took an untold number of photos of these two mountains during the several days they were in view.

Day 7. The Vagabond Hiker at Pachu Glacier with Nanda Devi  (in clouds) and Nanda Devi East behind.

Day 7. Here I was at the high point (est. 4500 m) above Pachu Glacier. Nanda Devi is in clouds this late in the day. Only one other client made this snow ascent during our lunch stop on this optional day hike.

Day 9. Trail side Himalayan gentians.

Day 9. The Shalang Valley towards Nanda Kot (6861 meters, far right in the background). Because of a new bridge, we were able to condense two days and gain an optional day hike around Martoli Peak.  Even our guide Rajeev, had not been this far before.

Day 9. “Elephant Peak” to our SE (zoom) from the northern flanks of Martoli Peak.

Day 10. The Gori Ganga, here at river level.

Day 11. A beautiful gorge along the Gori Ganga.

Day 11. On our final day trekking back to the road-head.  Munsyari is highlighted in the distance on this rainy day. We took a different, spectacular high level route back to our first river crossing.

I have been enjoying an autumn break in the UK this past week. Next week I will fly to Lanzarote in the Canary Islands.  During my month there I expect to fully explore the hiking opportunities on this volcanic island off the west coast of Morocco.  Until my next post, happy trails.

The Vagabond Hiker

 

Categories

Subscribe for Updates