The Vagabond Hiker

Hiking, trekking, and climbing the world

Hiking, Trekking, and Culture in the Caucasus, Part 1: Armenia

Although most of the nine days I spent in Armenia were comprised of hiking (three shorter day hikes and a four-day trek), at all times I felt deeply immersed in the culture, history, and religion of Armenia as we traveled from the capital of Yerevan to all corners of this fascinating country. Indeed, since becoming the first country in the world in 301 CE to adopt Christianity as its official religion, religion has never been far from any discussion of Armenia’s history.

The Caucasus is a geographic region located between the Black Sea to the West and the Caspian Sea to the East, essentially connecting eastern Europe with northwest Asia. (As such I have categorized them as both Europe and Asia for these blog posts). As can be seen in the map below, the mountains can be divided into the Greater and Lesser Caucasus. The trek and hikes in Armenia were of course in the Lesser range whereas my next blog post, from Georgia, will be in the Greater Caucasus Mountains.

Caucasus topographic map
(Bourrichon – fr:Bourrichon with English translations, additions, and corrections by Ketone16 (partly following Yuri Koryakov), CC BY-SA 4.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons)
Khor Virap Monastery. One of the most famous and religiously important sites in Armenia, is in the far west of this small country, close to the border with Turkey. It was our first stop on a long day of culture and hiking.
Mount Ararat in clouds from Khor Virap Monastery. Mount Ararat has a special place in every Armenian’s heart. Although located in Turkey, many refer to that area as “Western Armenia.” In fact, at 5137m, it is the highest mountain in Turkey. Note the cloud on the left of the photo that makes Little Ararat look like it’s erupting.
Smbataberd Fortress walls, seen during our first day hike, a hill traverse, in southern Armenia. Our slow pace and numerous stops during this hike were precursors of things to come.
Norovank Monastery in Gnishik gorge. This dramatically-sited monastery on our way to Lake Sevan was my favorite.
Orbelian’s caravanserai at the Selim Pass, from the 14th century. This lodging for travelers along the silk road is the best-preserved in Armenia.
Detail of Orbelian’s caravanserai entry with high reliefs of a winged animal to the left, and a bull to the right above the lintel.
Selim Pass vista near sunset. Much driving still remained, the first of three consecutive 5+ hour days of on often-decrepit roads.
Lake Sevan Best Western Hotel from pier in early AM. Lake Sevan is the largest in the Caucasus, located at 1900m above sea level. There was a wonderful heated outdoor pool; it was a shame we had no time to enjoy the facilities.
Haghpat Monastery, seen at the start of our second day’s hike, from there to Sanahin monastery. Both are on UNESCO’s World Heritage List.
An unusual khachkar at Haghpat Monastery. Most of these Armenian carved cross stelæ have a variety of motifs, but do not depict Jesus.
View back towards Haghpat Monastery, showing well the landscape in the northeast of the country. According to World Atlas, Armenia is the 6th most mountainous country in the world.
Sanahin Monastery, the end of our 2nd day of hiking. It was a beautiful and peaceful location, less encumbered by tourists than many others. Afterwards, another long transfer to our lodging for the night, not aided by a road closure due to a landslide en route.
A khachkar near the start of our 3rd day of hiking, between Kobayr Monastery and Odzun Church.
Our group on the dramatic hillside traverse from the Kobayr to Odzun. This was for me the best of our day hikes, although slow hiking with many rests, a road closed from an accident, and horrendous traffic on our return to Yerevan in the evening made for another very long day.
Day 1 of our Geghama Mountains traverse trek: Sevaberd to Ajna Lake. Here a beautiful flowered meadow vista. The Geghama Mountains lie to the east of Yerevan. While they are not particularly dramatic, my enjoyment of the trek was greatly enhanced from the lack of other hikers.
Day 2 in the Geghama Mountains was the highlight of the entire trek. Here the view is back towards our camp on the far side of Ajna lake. More wonderful wildflowers! Note some snow on the left; the late winter snows had not yet completely melted.
View towards Azhdahak Peak in the middle ground, the high point of the mountain range, on Day 2. Its summit was our objective.
The Vagabond Hiker out in front of the other clients on Day 2. Our trek leader was fairly fast. Fortunately we had two guides for only 6 clients, enabling a range of hiking speeds.
Birds eye primrose (Primula farinosa)
Gerry and other clients crossing a modest snow field
Azhdahak Peak (3597m) summit crater
On the summit of Azhdahak Peak
Pyramid Bugle (Ajuga pyramidalis). Compare to Velvetbells from my Lago di Garda post last month.
One of many petroglyphs we saw in Day 3 of our trek. Unfortunately our guide wasn’t able to explain much about them.
A Lake Vank standing stone, at our Day 3 lunch stop. The lake wasn’t particularly photogenic, hence no photo.
Day 4 of our trek: a morning view from camp with a hot air balloon in the distance. Our camp was spectacularly situated on the edge of a high plateau.
A view towards the town of Garni, our destination, on Day 4. The ruins of the Havuts Tar Monastery complex are seen in the foreground.
Havuts Tar ruins
A khachkar at Havuts Tar

After the four-day Geghama Mountains trek, one other client and I decided to leave the group and spend a night in Yerevan (which we were driving past anyway) rather than continue to a camp on Mount Aragats, the highest mountain in Armenia and a further 2 hours drive to the northwest. For several reasons, the two of us did not do that final hike, to Aragats’ South summit, the lowest and easiest of its four summits. Three of the other four clients did make the ascent the following day during a weather window. The photo below was taken by one from the South summit. Congrats to them, though I had no regrets at spending my final day in Armenia relaxing in Yerevan.

Mt Aragats South summit view towards the West and North (highest) summits

Stay tuned next week for the second installment of my Caucasus blogs, from Georgia.

The Vagabond Hiker

Myanmar Revisited: its landscapes and people

The past two months has brought horrible news from Myanmar. A military coup overthrowing the elected government on the sham justification of a stolen election (sound familiar?) has become progressively more violent, while the world watches and does precisely – nothing.

I looked back over some of the photos I took during a two week visit and trek back in December 2012, during the heady early days of democracy. President Obama had just visited a week prior, and the world was watching Myanmar with great expectations as it emerged from decades of military rule.

Of course, this was long before the Tatmadaw’s (army’s) unspeakable atrocities that began in 2016, aided and abetted by some militant Buddhist monks, against the Rohingya minority in Rakhine State. And long before the subsequent debasement in 2019 of Daw Aung San Suu Kyi, with her despicable defense of their crimes against humanity.

While I am not a naive optimist that the recent events will lead to a reinstatement of a semblance of democracy and a reining in of the Tatmadaw, it was good to revisit more peaceful scenes of this beautiful country and its wonderful people. I hope you enjoy these photos.

The Vagabond Hiker

Nan She Oo, our Pa-o guide who was studying English in university. In addition to the Burmese majority, there are more than 100 ethnic groups in Myanmar, including the Pa-o.
Kakku stupa (religious shrine) garden reflected in pool
The bucolic view from Aythaya Vineyards, Shan State. Their wines were surprisingly good.
An orchid at the monastery where we stayed after the first day of our four-day trek
A young drover and his passengers, Shan State. Few of the locals had seen westerners before, and even the adults greeted us with enthusiasm.
Winnowing rice, day three of our trek. Some of us “helped out,” much to the amusement of the locals.
Stupas and “monklets” on day 3 of our trek. These novices are likely only 8 or 9 years old.
Shan Plateau vista on day three of our trek. The hilly plateau at about 4000 ft elevation is much cooler than the main basin of the Irrawaddy River.
Loading teak on the Irrawaddy. Elements of the Tatmadaw control most of the licit and illicit trade in teak, jade, and opium
Stilt houses on Inle Lake
A young Inle Lake boat builder. These teak boats are well suited to the shallow lake.
A fisherman on Inle Lake, Shan State. The technique of propelling the craft on the shallow lake develops a fisherman’s calf muscles to an unbelievable degree.
Collecting seaweed for fertilizer on Inle Lake. It’s surprising their boats don’t capsize!
Lotus flowers and our hotel rooms on Inle Lake. To many the lotus flower is a symbol of purity, enlightenment, self-regeneration and rebirth. One can only hope.
A Bagan market stall in happier times
Stupas at sunset, Bagan. There are literally hundreds of these shrines around the ancient city and World Heritage Site of Bagan.
Hat vendor’s wares, Mingun
The famous U Bein teak bridge spanning Taungthaman Lake, at sunset
Vintage Elephant Coach near Sule Pagoda, Yangon, the scene of many recent protests
The Shwedagon Pagoda, the most sacred in Yangon and all of southern Myanmar. At sunset pilgrims throng to the site.
A friend I wanted to take home with me. . .

Bhutan’s Snowman Trek, Part 2: Lunana

Happy Thanksgiving from Lanzarote!

Among many blessings I have to be thankful for, the first which comes to mind is that it is sunny and 72 degrees here, perfect for hiking or swimming in the ocean (ok, the water is a bit cool). With Great Britain underwater and much of the US remaining in the grip of multiple storms, there are worse places I could be writing this blog from than the Canaries. . .

Leaving Laya after the Royal Highlander Festival, the trekking moved quite literally to a whole other level. The altitudes were higher, the weather colder and more unsettled, and the distances and elevation gains more serious. I was loving it.

A stupa (memorial containing sacred relics) seen on day 13, a relatively easy first day after our rest.
The Mo Chu river along which we walked much of day 13
Yaks crossing a bridge as we approached our camp on day 13. The weather definitely was detiorating at this point!
Me at Tsome La (5100m) on day 14. This pass was actually the start of a long crossing of a barren alpine plateau.
Our day 14 camp was in a valley known locally for its high snowfall. That night proved no exception.
The sun makes a welcome appearance on day 15 before the Karakachu La
The view from the Karakachu La (5080m) on day 15
Our group on the Karakachu La. Somehow I’m front and center here.
Our path along the Tarina Valley on day 16
It was nice to be below treeline, even if only for a short time. I saw this interesting flower farther along the Tarina Valley on day 16.
Vista of Kangphu Gang on day 17
Yaks seen going descending from Keche La as we were heading up on on day 17. Yaks must stay above 3000m, so non-trekking tourists in Bhutan don’t usually see them.
Keche La (4500m) with prayer flags and some of our group. I had ascended a little above the pass for this photo.
Chozo village on day 19, our third and final rest (and shower!) day. Though lacking electricity, Chozo actually had decent cell reception as the tower is solar-powered.
Our lunch spot by a lake on our way to the Sinthey La (5200m) on day 21. The two containers have our tea and hot lunch the cook had prepared for us that morning.
Lake Tsochena ringed by mountains on the descent from Sinthey La
Some of our horses and mules ascending the Rinchen Zoe La (5320m) on day 23, our highest point on the trek . Because of relatively good weather, we didn’t need any yaks to break trail through the snow, “only” the 37 equines.
A 270 deg. panorama seen from the Rinchen Zoe La (5320m, 17,454 ft). Gangkhar Puensum (7570m, 24,836 ft), the highest unclimbed mountain in the world, is at left-center, “peaking” out from behind lower mountains. Since 1994, climbing mountains in Bhutan higher than 6,000m has been prohibited out of respect for local spiritual beliefs, and since 2003 mountaineering has been forbidden completely.
The Vagabond Hiker from a few meters above the Rinchen Zoe La. It wasn’t really all that warm; I was simply switching jackets when I took a self-timer photo!
Clouds reflected in a lake descending from the Rinchen Zoe La
Our picturesque camp above Tampe Tsho lake on day 23. We were hit by several inches of snow that night, clear from the next photo. . .
Leaving camp for the Tampe La (4600m) on day 24. The pass is the obvious notch on the left, not visible from here.
The Vagabond Hiker on Tampe La (4600m) on day 24, our 11th and final high pass of the trek!
Monochrome vista of the sacred Om Thso Lake seen on our descent from Tampe La. There wasn’t much color anyway!
Panorama of the second (unnamed) lake on our descent to Maurothang, still day 24. Rhododendrons are seen in the foreground. If I ever come back to Bhutan, it will be in the spring to see them all in flower.
Prayer flags on our descent to Maurothang, our final camp
Our final camp by the river with my tent on the far left
An interesting flower seen as we approach the road head on the final day

While greenery was much appreciated after days of barren vistas, the final day of trekking was more mud and yak shit than anything else. However, the Bhutanese trekking agency met us at the road head with our vans and conjured up a fine lunch, including cold Bhutanese beer and wine. A great welcome back to civilization!

On our drive back to the capital Thimphu the next day we visited the famous Punakha Dzong, at the confluence of the Mo and Po (mother and father) Rivers. I took this photo in 2012 on my first trip to Bhutan as the light was better.
A magestic Bodhi tree (Ficus religiosa) in the Punakha Dzong courtyard
Driving to Thimphu, we crossed the Dochu La, known for its recently-constructed 108 stupas. This vista (photo also taken in 2012) includes Table Mountain, (center) and Gangkhar Puensum (right, just visible beside the tree).

After a farewell dinner in Thimphu where we said goodbye to our guides, the next afternoon we flew back to Kathmandu. Unfortunately, I did not have a window seat for what is easily the most spectacular commercial flight in the world, parallel to the spine of the Himalayas: the one hour trip features ring-side views of five the six highest mountains in the world. Oh, well, maybe next time.

I will publish one more blog this year featuring a few photos from the south coast of England near Hastings, where I spent so much time this past year and will spend several weeks next year. The blog will also detail some of my travel plans for 2020. Until then, keep hiking!

The Vagabond Hiker

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