The Vagabond Hiker

Hiking, trekking, and climbing the world

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Sydney to Eden, New South Wales

April 21, 2017

The charms of Sydney were utterly lost on me.  A delayed flight, a long wait in the rain for the shuttle bus, an (unsuccessful) attempt to charge me 250% of the agreed price for the car rental, massive rush-hour traffic jams, even more heavy rain as we crawled out of the metropolis, all combined to reinforce my prior decision to avoid the number one tourist destination in Oz.

Fortunately, things looked up almost immediately.  A visit to The National Botanical Gardens in Canberra provided a more fitting introduction to mainland Australia.  The several photos below give a good representation of what my brother and I saw; although most of the flowers were not in bloom since it was Austral autumn, the green oasis set amid the park-like city of Canberra deserved more time than we could spare from our itinerary.

A late-blooming Aster at the National Botanical Garden in Canberra
A Bottle Tree at the NationalA Grivellea blooming at the National Botanic Garden
A Grivellea blooming at the National Botanic Garden
The same Grivellea up close with a pollinating bee
Crimson Rosella at the National Botanical Garden

Leaving Canberra after a tasty and filling Lebanese lunch, we continued South and West to Jindabyne, which provided a convenient base for the ascent of Mount Kosciuszko.  The “climb” was in fact nothing more than an overly-long, though scenic, walk up a dirt track to the summit.  With an early start from Charlotte Pass, we avoided most of the crowds that start from the top of the ski lift from Thredbo later in the morning, an even less-deserving manner to claim the high point in Australia.  Indeed, a far more interesting summit was the nearby Mount Townsend, accessed from a use trail off the Main Ranges Track, faint at times, to the second highest point in Australia, at 2,209 meters, a mere 19 meters lower than its far more famous neighbor.  The Vagabond Hiker managed to miss the use trail altogether and consequently ended up bushwhacking up a nearby mountain completely unnecessary to accomplishing the objective.  Whereas several hundred or more ascend Kossie daily, only five of us summitted Mt. Townsend that day.  Fortunately, a couple was on the summit when I arrived, so I was spared the indignity of having to take a selfie (my brother skipped this optional extension).

Mt. Koscuizsko vista and track
The Vagabond Hiker on Mt. Townsend summit, Mt. Kosciuzsko National Park.  Kossie is the round blob over my shoulder.

Most of our time in New South Wales was spent on the far south coast, also known as the Sapphire Coast.  My brother and I based our day trips from an AirBnB cottage in the small coastal town of Eden, set on the picturesque Twofold Bay and boasting (at least according to its tourist literature) the third deepest natural harbor in the southern hemisphere.  Coastal hikes in Eden and in Ben Boyd National Park directly to the south, a visit to a local wild animal park and nature reserve, and a cardio hike up nearby Mt. Imlay provided highlights for our week in Eden.

A coastal view near the tower, Ben Boyd National Park
The Pinnacles, Ben Boyd National Park
The Vagabond Hiker above the churning surf near The Pinnacles, Ben Boyd National Park
An Agile Wallaby at Potoroo Palace, a not-for-profit wildlife park just up the coast from Eden
Grey-headed Flying Fox at Panboola Reserve, Merimbula, New South Wales (photo courtesy of Clifford).  We saw thousands of these threatened bats at the Reserve.

My next post will be “The Road to Alice,” featuring highlights from a 7-day drive up to Alice Springs in the Red Center of Australia.  Stay tuned!

The Vagabond Hiker

Australasia, Australia Kent

The Rest of Tassie

April 1, 2017

It hardly seems possible, but I’ve been exploring Tasmania for nearly six weeks.  After my previous blog post from the South of the island, my perambulations have focused on the North and East as well as the Central Highlands, along with one short excursion towards the West Coast.  While most of the photos assembled here were taken on walks and hikes, alone or with my brother, I would be remiss in not including some of the local critters we saw at The Platypus House and Wings Wildlife Park.  The only time I’ve seen a greater variety of mammals was darting in front of my car at night.

My next post will likely be in a couple of weeks from Eden, along the southern coast of New South Wales.  Not sure whether the Garden is in bloom this time of year.

In the meantime, enjoy The Rest of Tassie,

The Vagabond Hiker

Dawn from the deck of my beach house, Greens Beach, Tasmania
Burgess Cove, Rocky Cape National Park.  Rocky Cape is along the Bass Strait, separating Tasmania from mainland Australia.
Morning view at Tamar Island Wetlands Reserve.  The Tamar flows north from the city of Launceston to Greens Beach and Low Head, where it empties into the Bass Strait. The Wetlands Reserve is only a few minutes from Launie.
Black swan, Tamar Island Wetlands Reserve
The Vagabond Hiker posing at Tamar Island Wetlands Reserve
Pademelon at Tamar Island Wetlands Reserve.  She is about the size of a watermelon.
Dove Lake and Cradle Mountain in the Central Highlands, near the start of the famous Overland Track.
Ballroom Forest along Dove Lake
A view East to Dove Lake from the Face Track
Barn Bluff from the summit of Cradle Mountain.  Cradle Mountain is a popular excursion off of the Overland Track and the 5th highest summit on Tassie (Barn Bluff is the 4th highest).
Moss on a tree stump, Franklin River Nature Trail. This short nature trail was technically our only excursion to the West Coast rain forest.
Tasmanian Arboretum view. While the arboretum is not yet ready for prime time, the landscape is simply stunning.
Baby Wombat Roxy at Wings Wildlife Park. Her mother was unfortunately killed by a car. A visit to Wings (http://wingswildlifepark.com.au/) is highly recommended.
The Koala at Wings Wildlife Park. She eats only about 7 of the 70 eucalyptus leaf species in Tasmania, and rarely the same one twice in one day.
Clifford scratching an alpha male Forester Kangaroo.  The Forester is the only ‘roo found in Tasmania.
Two Devils growling, Wings Wildlife Park. They were waiting for their mid-day Wallaby leg snack.
Lake St Clair and reflected clouds with Mt Ida. This lake is the southern terminus of the Overland Track.
Tree ferns (Dicksonia antarctica) along Lake St Clair
A shelf fungus along Lake St Clair after a rain
Leatherwood flower and leaves along Lake St Clair.  The Leatherwood tree, endemic to Tasmania, provides a very distinctive honey.
The Vagabond Hiker along the Overland Track at Lake St Clair
Hut near Legges Tor summit cone, Ben Lomond National Park.  At 1573 meters, Legges Tor is the 2nd highest peak on Tasmania.  Mount Ossa, the highest, requires a multi-day trek to summit.
Cushion plants on the Ben Lomond plateau
Cruickshanks lookout view, Leven Canyon Reserve
Notley Fern Gorge track.  This riparian rain forest remnant was only a half hour from Greens Beach.
A Fiddlehead at Notley Fern Gorge
Kayaks, Coles Bay, Freycinet Peninsula.  My brother and I went on a 3 hour guided trip with Freycinet Adventures, one of only two kayak guiding companies I found in Tassie.  (Due to highly changeable weather, no one seems to simply rent out kayaks).
World famous Wineglass Bay, Freycinet National Park on the drier East coast of Tasmania.
Sailboats on Wineglass Bay, Freycinet Peninsula
A Grass Tree in Freycinet National Park
A Grass Tree in Freycinet National Park. A fungus is rotting the roots of many shrubs and grasses in the region.
Wallaby feeding near Hazards Bay, Freycinet National Park
A female Platypus in the Platypus House (http://www.platypushouse.com.au/). The Platypus is one of only three species of monotremes (egg-laying mammals) in the world.  The two other monotremes are short and long-beaked echidnas.  (There are 3 subspecies of the latter.)
Meander Falls, one of the highest falls in Tasmania.  That orange dot is The Vagabond Hiker.  (This photo is NOT a selfie).
A zoom view of The Vagabond Hiker at Meander Falls, also courtesy of Clifford.

 

 

Australasia, Australia Kent

Day hikes around Hobart, Tasmania

March 7, 2017

Since departing the United States in mid-January, I had been traveling more than 5 weeks at a frenetic pace throughout southeast Asia before casting up in southern Tasmania.  Spending 6 weeks here in the southernmost state in Australia, two in the south and four in the north of the island, is a welcome relief.  (The Calendar Tab shows my current travel plans).  After sleeping in a different bed almost every night (not as salacious as it sounds), knowing that one doesn’t need to grab one’s things and head out the door early the next morning has been quite a luxury.

During my first two weeks here, I went on five or six short day hikes within a 2.5 hour radius of the rural cottage I had been staying at south of Hobart.  These hikes encompassed some of the diverse ecosystems nearby, from rain forest in the lower elevations of Mt. Field National Park to coastal forest and heath southeast and southwest of Hobart, to a sub-alpine environment on the higher slopes of Mt Hartz.  I assembled the photos that follow from these jaunts as well as a trip to Hobart’s Royal Tasmanian Botanical Garden.  Some dramatic and beautiful scenery, strange endemic flora and fauna, and great late summer weather added up to yet more wonderful hikes for

The Vagabond Hiker

Hobart and the Derwent River from Mt. Wellington’s Eastern flanks
Coast view near the Devil’s Kitchen, Tasman Peninsula
The Devil’s Kitchen. Yes, to get this shot I climbed over a restraining fence (to everyone’s amazement).
Fossil Island, Tasman Peninsula
Fortescue beach from the Bivouac Bay track, Tasman Peninsula
Tiger Snake (Notechis scutatus), Tasman Peninsula. I have encountered several of these venomous snakes, but only photographed this one.
The boardwalk track through the heath from Cockle Creek (the southern terminus of the south-most road in Australia) to South Cape Bay.
View West toward Lion’s Head at South Cape Bay, reached after a two hour walk from Cockle Creek. Mighty combers were rolling in off the Southern Ocean.
A White-lipped snake (Drysdalia coronoides), South Cape Bay. While venomous, their small size (diameter about that of a pencil) makes them much less of a threat than Tiger or Copperhead snakes in Tasmania.
Heath bog along the Hartz Peak track, Hartz Mountains National Park
View SW from Hartz Peak summit into the South West National Park
Lady Barron Falls, Mt. Field National Park
Tree ferns (Dicksonia antarctica), Mt. Field National Park
Horseshoe Falls, Mt. Field National Park
A 78m tall Swamp Gum (Eucalyptus regnans) in Mt. Field National Park. These are the tallest flowering plants in the world, reaching 99m (324 ft).
Russell Falls, Mt. Field National Park
The Lily Pond at the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Garden. At one time it supplied all the water for the flora at this 14 hectare site.
A spectacular 150 year old Cork Oak (Quercus suber) at the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Garden
Naked Lady (Amaryllis belladonna) in bloom at the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Garden. I just had to take a photo…

 

 

Australasia, Australia Kent

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