The Vagabond Hiker

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Malta redux

April 19, 2025

Seven years ago (though it doesn’t seem nearly so long) I published three blogs on hiking the country of Malta. The first, on the Island of Malta, was necessarily short as I stayed only one week and spent much of the time investigating the numerous architectural ruins (not surprising as I was traveling with my brother, Mark, and his wife, both architects!) Returning to Malta for 21/2 weeks last month gave me an opportunity for a deeper dive into some of the trails in the more rural, northern end of the island.

After a wet winter, this past March Malta was far greener than I recalled, boasting many more wildflowers, photos of which were noticeably absent from my 2018 post. Let’s start with a geography refresher. . .

A map of the country of Malta, situated about 80 km south of Sicily, reproduced from my 2018 blog post

The trailhead for most of the hikes was the door of my apartment in Mellieħa, a ridge-top town in northern Malta. All except one hike were variations on a theme. . . the theme being the Mellieħa peninsula. The final hike out my door was a loop to the south, out to Il-Majjistral Park on the west coast. (Foolishly, I failed to extend the hike to include Xemxija’s Old Roman Road Heritage Trail).

Balcony view east from my top floor Mellieħa apartment.
A farmer with Il-Palazz in the background.
Tree mallow (Malva arborea), many of which were a meter or more tall
The ruins of Ras il-Griebeg, along the northern coast of the Mellieħa peninsula
Field gladiolus (Gladiolus italicus)
The coast near Imġiebaħ Beach
The town of Mellieħa. My apartment is denoted by the arrow on the left.
Il-Palazz, sadly closed for renovation
A morning view east, on the descent to a coastal loop walk.
Statue of St Paul, to the east of the peninsula.
A rural road on the peninsula. These roads weren’t so bad to walk as the traffic was somewhere between light and non-existent.
A field and coast view along a path north of my apartment
Imġiebaħ valley
Azure stonecrop (Sedum caeruleum), native to Algeria, Morocco, Tunisia, Sardinia, Corsica, and Sicily, according to Wiki; and apparently Malta.
Giant Fennel (Ferula communis). Though not one of my faves, I had to be impressed with these burly guys
A gorgeous flower of the caper bush (Capparis spinosa)
A rural road/path to my south, heading towards Il-Majjistral Nature & History Park
Italian Bugloss (Anchusa azurea). The hike to Il-Majjistral was fantastic for botanizing
Branched Asphodel (Asphodelus ramosus)
Vista north from Il-Majjistral. The cliffs south of Dwejra Bay on Gozo are in the distance.
Scarlet pimpernel (Lysimachia arvensis), blue form. A gorgeous macro of a scarlet pimpernel, taken by Clifford, was the only wildflower in my three blogs from 2018.
Rock Cut Observation Post, Il-Majjistral
View from the Rock Cut Observation Post. The white blobs are small islets far below
A Brown garden snail. They commonly emerge during wet weather in winter on Malta. Indeed, there were several days of some rain showers while I was there.
Castor oil plant (Ricinus communis), which is extremely allergenic. Castor beans contain ricin and are highly toxic.

A half-hour bus journey south from my apartment brought me to the town of Mġarr, which was the starting point for a loop hike to Fomm ir-Riħ on the west coast.

Castello Zamittello, immediately to the west of Mġarr
The Windrose Giant Cat Weathervane, Fomm ir-Riħ
Fomm ir-Riħ bay and headland

Another hike requiring a short bus journey was to the L-Aħrax peninsula, at the northern end of Malta Island. It is located to the east of the Red Fort and Ras il-Qammieħ, where I hiked with Mark in 2018. Despite some paved roads as well as a couple of new resorts under construction (yuck!), there were still a few nice rural and coastal spots on this hike.

Coast view towards Gozo
It-Torri l-Abjad. The path near here disappeared into sharp talus for several hundred meters before resuming.
A rural road/path on the southern portion of the L-Aħrax Peninsula. Some prickly pear cacti were almost as large as the shrubby trees.
A field of crown daisies and poppies.

Altogether I identified about 22 wildflowers blooming in March. I thought that was a reasonably good tally, until I discovered the Malta Wild Plants website, a 20-year effort by Stephen Mifsud. It will be a great resource if I ever return, or if any of you, my dear readers, visit Malta.

Currently, I am in England enjoying a warm and generally sunny April in Hastings, East Sussex. My next blog post will be of the South West Coast Path. Last week I completed the last few days of the Dorset section with a friend from California.

Stay tuned and enjoy the spring weather and wildflowers,

The Vagabond Hiker

Europe, Malta Kent

Travels with Clifford

February 23, 2024

As long-time followers of this blog may know, my youngest brother, Clifford, has both graced many photos and been behind the lens for quite a few more. Beginning with Maui in 1990, Clifford and I explored Belize in 1993, Wales with our dad in 2000, and coastal California and the Southwest US numerous times since 2007. More recently we traveled and hiked together in Tasmania and mainland Australia in 2017, Malta in 2018, Ireland in 2019, and Costa Rica in 2022. Clifford’s innate curiosity, far-reaching knowledge, boundless enthusiasm, and child-like sense of wonder for the natural world enriched my travels in so many ways. Here are some recent fond memories. . .

Posing with stringy bark eucalyptus, Franklin River Nature Trail, Tasmania, Australia, 2017
Scratching an alpha male Forester kangaroo, Tasmania
Smiling from inside a hollow eucalyptus, Notley Gorge, Tasmania
Investigating a termite mound, Bed Boyd National Park, New South Wales, Australia, 2017
Admiring the vista at Kalarranga Lookout, Finke Gorge National Park, Northern Territory, Australia, 2017
Enjoying the strata, Kings Canyon, Northern Territory
At a cliff-edge along the south coast of the island of Gozo, Malta, 2018
Kayaking on Dwejra Bay, Gozo
Admiring the cliffs from his kayak, Dwejra Bay
Looking up into the canopy from under a Dragon tree, San Diego Botanical Garden, 2022
Standing with an impressive yucca, San Diego Botanical Garden
Posing with an endangered Elephant tree at Torote Bowl, Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, California, 2022
Under California Fan Palms, Anza-Borrego
At the trailhead of the Domelands Loop, Coyote Mountains Wilderness, California, 2022
Making empanadas with Valerie, Guanacaste, Costa Rica, 2022
At Toroweap Overlook on the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, Arizona, 2023
Smiling with our brother, Mark (c), and me, the Dingle Peninsula, Ireland, 2019

Clifford Blizard

1970-2024

Carpe Diem!

Kent Blizard, the Vagabond Hiker

Australia, Costa Rica, Ireland, Malta, United States Kent

Walking Malta, Part 3: The Island of Gozo

April 28, 2018

Almost all of the six-plus weeks that I spent in Malta were on the island of Gozo. About 1/4 the size of the island of Malta, Gozo has less than 1/10th the population and far more rural character, making it a far better choice for hiking. It is easily reached by public bus from either the airport or the capital, Valletta. Car ferries run every 45 minutes during the day from northern Malta to Gozo.  The extensive and reliable bus system on Gozo meant that I could dispense with the hassle of a car.

During my sojourn I circumambulated Gozo, though private property and some rugged terrain forced me inland in a few instances.  From my base in Victoria near the center of Gozo, the public bus system enabled numerous point-to-point coastal walks as well as circular ones encompassing some of the numerous rural country roads. For about half of the time my brother Clifford was visiting on a working retreat, and a couple of the photos below are his.

60 triq-il-Madonna (on the left), my apartment in old town Victoria

The Citadel of Gozo, overlooking Victoria and much of the island. It was a five minute walk from my apartment.

The Vagabond Hiker on Qala Point Battery, one of the fortifications originally built by the Knights of St. John that has been recently renovated.

Flowers and rocks along the coastal trail near Hondoq Bay, an hour’s walk east of Mgarr

Atmospheric view toward the island of Comino from the southeast of Gozo

Salt pans and Mgarr harbor. This bustling town has the only marina on Gozo and is where the ferries disgorge their passengers every 45 minutes throughout the day.

Colorful limestone rocks near Mgarr

A jelly in a tidal pool near Mgarr, Gozo

Ta Cenc Cliffs along the south coast of Gozo.  At about 500 feet in height, these cliffs are arguably the most dramatic on the island.

The Vagabond Hiker hanging out on the Ta Cenc cliffs

A Maltese Wall Lizard. We saw these little fellas scurrying everywhere.

Xlendi harbor entrance and tower (on the right). Some of the many small terraced agricultural plots are seen here.

Wildflowers and rubble wall near Xlendi. Rubble walls border the numerous small agricultural plots, many of which are terraced, throughout rural Malta.

Sarraflu Pond in the south of Gozo. It is the only natural large waterhole on the island!

Fungus Rock and Dwejra Bay. The world famous Azure Window just beyond it collapsed last year, but that doesn’t seem to have deterred the tourists from this iconic location.  Gozo’s cliffs limit the spots one can access the water.

Clifford kayaking near the Dwejra Cliffs. We had just kayaked through a natural tunnel from the “inland sea.”

Dwejra Bay sea cave. Limestone caves abound on the island, and are popular with both snorkelers and divers.

Dwejra Bay from a sea cave in my kayak

The natural arch at Wied Il-Mielaħ on the north coast of Gozo

Wied il-Ghasri, one of the more popular valleys that drain the plateaus of Gozo. Out of view is a tiny pebble beach one can walk to down some stairs.

Salt pans along the north coast of Gozo, some of which date back to Roman times. The mound in the background here consists of compacted sand and gravel washed into an ancient doline (a collapsed cave).  Some locals still harvest salt each summer to sell to tourists.

A footpath along the valley to Marsalforn

A portion of the Marsalforn harbor. With all the seafood restaurants lining the bay, it was a great place for lunch after a morning hike (or run).

Ramla Bay. Popular with both surfers and sun bathers, this bay has the only decent-sized sandy beach on the island.

Along the pleasant coastal path east from Ramla Bay

A cricket (photo courtesy of Clifford, the master of the macro)

San Blas Bay. Some reed fencing may be seen on the hill to the left, protecting small agricultural plots from the mistral winds.

My plans from now through the middle of September are now complete.  I updated my calendar on this blog to reflect these trips. They comprise hikes in five countries I have not yet visited (Romania, Albania, Macedonia, Montenegro, and Kosovo) and three that I will be returning to (the UK, Peru, and Italy).

Stay tuned for more hiking, trekking, and climbing blogs in the coming months!

The Vagabond Hiker

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Europe, Malta Kent

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