Latin America

Peru’s Choquequirao Trek to Machu Picchu

July 1, 2025

When my Choquequirao trek was canceled last year, I had little expectation that I would be going on this amazing trek anytime soon. But, one year on, that is exactly what happened. This time, despite having only three clients, KE Adventures elected to run the trip. As it turned out, my fourth trek in Peru was the most challenging of my life. The wildflowers we encountered are well-represented here, in part because of their sheer numbers and variety, and in part because taking the time with these macros provided a chance to catch my breath! Enjoy.

Pre-trek: Cusco area and Saywite Archeological Site

As with any trek in the Cusco region of Peru, the first couple days are spent acclimatizing in and around Cusco (elevation 3400 m) and the Sacred Valley. This time was no exception as we visited several local Incan sites as well as enjoyed a city tour.

The “Puma Paw” at Sacsayhuamán. Some stone blocks here weigh more than 100 tons.

*Cantua buxifolia*, the Peruvian magic tree

A sundial at Saywite Archeological Site, where we stopped for a couple hours walking on our long drive to the trailhead

Choquequirao Trek Overview

Sitting astride a high ridge amongst the snow-capped peaks of Peru, the Inca fortress of Choquequirao is one of the most important discoveries of Inca antiquity. Already a rival to Machu Picchu in terms of its size, if not its splendor, more buildings and llama-decorated terraces are being excavated each year. More remote and challenging to access than Machu Picchu, it is consequently far less visited and still offers one the chance to wander freely amongst the evocative ruins and explore the terraces in relative solitude. KE Adventure’s fully supported trek was by way of the awe-inspiring canyon of the Apurimac River, involving an exciting descent and ascent of almost 2000 m to reach camp beside the citadel of Choquequirao. After two half-days exploring this amazing complex, we continued trekking for five more days through the rugged and beautiful Cordillera Vilcabamba, a region dominated by impressive snowy 6000 m peaks, including Pumasillo and Salkantay.

The trek by the numbers:

Nine days
78.5 total kilometers*
6730 meters total elevation gain*
4643 meters highest elevation

* I only did a partial ascent/descent on Day 7, reflected in the totals shown

Our Chiquequirao trek route from Capuliyoc to the Urubamba Hydroelectric Dam

Day 1: Capuliyoc to Chiquiska campsite

8 km, 120 m gain

We made a very early start from Cusco today, which included a stop at the Saywite archeological site (see previous photo) and featured lunch at the trailhead as our mules were being sorted. The afternoon hike was an easy introduction to the area, as it was mostly descending towards the Apurimac Canyon.

Looking back to Capuliyoc trailhead and its glamp-site, where we had lunch

Day 2: Chiquiska campsite to Marampata camp

8 km, 1550 m gain

After descending to the Apurimac River, a long, tiring ascent to Marampata camp followed. I needed to have a mule carry my pack the last hour or so. A stomach bug, nausea, and concomitant dehydration made this the most difficult trekking day I’ve ever completed.

Early morning view of our descent to the Apurimac River

Apurimac Canyon vista. My photos not surprisingly ceased around this point for the rest of the day.

Day 3: Marampata camp to Choquequirao

9.5 km, 600 m gain

After resting and hydrating at camp (and avoiding food), I was somewhat recovered for day 3, which included an afternoon at the Choquequirao site, the first of two explorations we would have at this amazing complex.

*Barnadesia horrida*, the first of many flower photos, mostly lacking English common names

Trail view towards Choquequirao (the flattish area on the hill in the mid-ground), with cacti foreground

A stream cascading down the mountain across our trail

The Vagabond Hiker at Choquequirao entrance gate.

Some of the twenty-three Llamas embedded in the agricultural terraces, from which the steps derive their name

View northeast from the Choquequirao Llama steps

*Epidendrum secundum*, one of the crucifix orchids, known commonly as the lopsided star orchid

Looking down on Choquequirao’s main plaza

Andean condor. Only a slightly better image than that from my Cordillera Huayhuash trek in 2018.

Choquequirao “medicos” building remains. Not surprisingly, the wooden roofs had all completely deteriorated.

Day 4: Choquequirao to Pincha Unuyoc

7 km, 450 m gain

After a couple hours in the morning for further exploration of Choquequirao, we continued down to Pincha Unuyoc. I was feeling better, and spent much of the hike exploring the macro capabilities of my Olympus TG-6.

Some of the homes of the upper class at Choquequirao

Another perspective of Choquequirao’s main plaza

*Altensteinia fimbriata*, an unusual-looking orchid.

*Salvia sagittata*, a high altitude member of the mint or sage family

*Oenothera rosea*, the Rose evening primrose. It is native to the Americas, but invasive in many areas around the world.

*Leonotis nepetifolia*. This invasive has several English common names. I like Klipp dagga.

Day 4 camp. One of the only times we needed our chemical toilet; most camp sites had flush toilets that actually worked!

Some of our mules at our day 4 campsite. I thought I should include at least one photo of them!

Day 5: Pincha Unuyoc to Maizal

8 km, 1160 m gain

The first of three “summit” days, featuring extended ascents . . .

. . . but first, a tricky descent to the Rio Blanco, here negotiated by Martyn and Matt.

. . . followed by an exciting river crossing; here, our guide, Rudy, is watching Martyn.

Day 6: Maizal to the Rio Yanama Valley

9.5 km, 1200 m gain

Our second “summit” day was to the Abra San Juan, our 2nd highest pass of the trek.

With Matt (c) and Martyn at Abra San Juan. It was a tough, slow climb for me.

Our group at Abra San Juan. The fog never really lifted that day.

Matt and Rudy admire the vista on the descent as the clouds briefly thinned

*Caiophora pedicularifolia*. As this species has a known range of only Bolivia, perhaps it is another species of *Caiophora*.

Balcony trail on day 6, one of our few instances of any exposure.

*Nasa triphylla*. This beauty somehow reminds me of a shooting-star.

Day 7: Rio Yanama Valley to Totora village

11 km, 500 m gain*

* Reflecting my partial ascent/descent

Our “summit” on day 7 was for me a step too far. I did the first (easiest) half of the ascent and the second half (likewise more gentle) of the descent, catching the van transporting our camping supplies for the more challenging bits. (Our mules left us the evening before, exchanged for a rather clapped-out van).

A bucolic vista near the beginning of the Rio Yanama valley ascent

*Lupinus mutabilis*, the Andean lupine. I finally got a decent macro of this widespread flower.

With out chef, Juan (l), and Velarmino at Abra Mariano Llamocco, the highest point of the trek. I felt no guilt from my van ride up the massive headwall.

Resting at our lunch stop with Salcantay in the background, wreathed in clouds. I waited here about 2^1/2 hours for the rest of our group to arrive.

Day 8: Totora to Lucmabamba

17 km, 300 m gain

After three long ascents, today’s hike – the longest of the trek – was actually not that challenging as it generally descended along the valley.

Footbridge over Rio Santa Teresa below Collpapampa

The most impressive waterfall of many (mostly cascades) we saw on the trek.

Our group on another balcony trail, showing one of the landslides that have plagued this portion of the trek.

A hungry puppy at one of the camping areas along the Rio Santa Teresa

River-level view of the Rio Santa Teresa. We crossed the bridge here and climbed up to the local road to avoid several landslides.

Day 9: Lucmabamba to the Urubamba Hydro Dam

11.5 km, 850 m gain

Today featured one final pass to climb, whose summit provided views towards Machu Picchu. After lunch at a restaurant, we completed the trek in the early afternoon and caught the train to Agaus Calientes for a nice hot shower at our hotel.

Camino Inca, shortly after leaving our Lucmabamba campsite.

The upper portion of Salcantay (6271 m) appeared at the pass.

A zoom view towards Machu Picchu and Huayna Picchu from the pass. Can you spot them? As this portion of our trek coincided with the wildly popular Salcantay Trek, it was absolutely rammed with people.

Post-trek: Machu Picchu

We explored this phenomenal World Heritage Site for more than three hours the morning after our trek, before returning by bus/train/private van to Cusco. It was my first visit since 2009. Only one photo since I’m sure you’ve already seen many. . .

Machu Picchu and Huayna Picchu with bird. I’d like to think it’s an Andean Condor!

An interesting side note regarding the artifacts that Hiram Bingham brought back to Yale from his excavations at Machu Picchu between 1911 and 1916 is that many were finally returned this past decade to Peru where some museum-quality pieces are now available to see at the Museo Casa Concha in Cusco. I highly recommend a visit there when next you are in that special city.

Once again I am back in Italy, enjoying early morning walks and hikes in the Arco area of Trentino, before the heat of the day drives me indoors. Next week I relocate to northern Brescia in Lombardy, to the west of the Dolomites proper. Surrounded by two large national parks, it is an area of northern Italy that I have not explored, and promises some very interesting hiking. Either my upcoming month in Brescia or a recently completed “City Break” trip will be the subject of my next blog post. Until then, stay cool outdoors,

The Vagabond Hiker

Peru’s Ausangate Circuit Trek

July 16, 2024

When last minute cancellations by other clients put paid to my plan to trek to the Incan site of Choquequirao, I signed up instead for an extended Ausangate Circuit trek in the remote Cordillera Vilcanota range of the Andes, south of Cusco, a city I hadn’t visited since 2009. After two days of acclimatization near Cusco, we commenced our nine day trek. Our group of seven clients, one guide and a horseman with his “sag” horse hiked about 90 km (56 miles) and ascended more than 3700 m (12,100 ft). While the distances and elevation gains were not great, the altitude certainly was: five high passes which ranged from 4850 to 5200 meters (15,900 to 17,060 ft).

The Cordillera Vilcanota boasts several 6000m peaks, including the sacred Ausangate, at 6372m (20,900 ft), the highest mountain in southern Peru. This high and wild trekking circuit wound its way on quiet trails through this rarely-visited range, following lovely alpine valleys and traversing a series of passes connecting them. After a lovely soak in the Pachanta town hot springs one afternoon, the usual end point for the Ausangate Circuit trek, our trek continued another 2 1/2 days, highlighted by the remote and stunning Laguna Singrenacocha.

Enjoy some of the hundreds of photos that I took!

View of the Sacred Valley from *Parque Arqueológico Pisac*, our first of two acclimatization walks

A view of Incan farming terraces from *Parque Arqueológico Pisac*

A Cyclopian-style Incan wall at Sacsayhuaman above Cusco, where we did the 2nd of our two acclimatization walks. The stones weigh up to 200 tons.

Approaching Ausangate from near the Tinki trailhead on Day 1. The trailhead was a leisurely 4-hour drive south from Cusco.

Our first night’s camp. The orange tents on the left side are ours.

Glacial melt-water serenades our group of 7 clients early on Day 2. Our group included five Brits and two Americans. Can you spot them in this photo?

Old Man of the Andes cacti (*Oreocereus celsianus*)

View from the pass Abra al Arapa, 4850 m, the first of the five high passes we would cross on the trek. The needle-like peak is Sorimani.

Our group down-climbing above Laguna Pucacocha

Our horses grazing near our 2nd camp in the late afternoon

Hatun (Great) Pucacocha and alpaca herd early on Day 3

Ausangate with Hatun Pucacocha on the left here

Th Vagabond Hiker with our horseman, Rozes, on the Apachita Pass (4920m)

Painted Mountain, a popular day hike from the opposite side.

Rozes and our guide Evr (r), on Abra Paloman (5100m)

Landscape with *Senecio leucophyton* (in the daisy family)

Lodge, tarn, and Ausangate, seen on Day 4. The usual climbing route ascends from the red-roofed lodge seen in the lower left.

A Northern Viscacha, a type of chinchilla. Over a couple of days we saw (and heard) numerous Viscachas near streams.

Nevado Ausangate in all its formidable glory

*Lupinus weberbaueri*, seen on Day 5. We saw several different lupines. . .

*Lupinus alopecuroides*. None of the flowers I saw seemed to have common English names, hence I’m sticking with the Latin binomials for this post.

Some of our pack horses on Day 5 near Abra La Campa (5060m). Jatunhuma (6100m) is in the background.

Puka Punta (5600m), Pachanta (5950m), and Callangate (6110m) seen to our east on Day 5.

*Nototriche obcuneata*, in the mallow family

Sunset view on Day 5. Puka Punta (“Red Point” in Quechua) is on the right.

Laguna Pucacocha in the morning of Day 6.

Grasses and blue pond with reflection of a portion of the Ausangate massif.

A remote village with Callangate behind, seen on Day 7

Some dry stone walls testify to the ubiquitous alpaca and Llama herding over the centuries

Closeup of five alpacas. The 2nd from the left looks to me like a character in the Wizard of Oz.

Our “sag” horse, Ausangate, being encouraged to cross a stream

Day 7 sunset vista with horses and alpenglow on Callangate

The turquoise Laguna Singrenaccocha, seen early on Day 8

Another view of Laguna Singrenaccocha, which we essentially circumambulated this day, camping near the southwest corner

Hatun Q’ampa reflected in a small, unnamed lake

The main river feeding into Laguna Singrenaccocha, which we crossed downstream, near its entrance to the lake

Mark crossing one section of the river near the outlet of Laguna Singrenaccocha

Our scenic Day 8 campsite and our horses

Our support crew (our cook, two assistants, and muleteers), Day 9

Still morning reflections in Laguna Singrenaccocha

Our final canyon descent to the roadhead near Malima on Day 9.

I chose to spend this summer in the Rocky Mountains of southwest Colorado and on the eastern side of the Sierra Nevada range of California. If I get some decent photos, expect one or two blog posts from some of my numerous day hikes. In early September I will be traveling around Europe for about 5 1/2 weeks, trekking across the Picos de Europa in northern Spain and the Julian Alps in Slovenia (yes, I know they are not particularly close together!), and doing a series of walks on São Miguel Island in the Azores. Expect three more blog posts this autumn from those adventures!

In the meantime, enjoy as much of the summer outdoors as you can,

The Vagabond Hiker

Travels with Clifford

February 23, 2024

As long-time followers of this blog may know, my youngest brother, Clifford, has both graced many photos and been behind the lens for quite a few more. Beginning with Maui in 1990, Clifford and I explored Belize in 1993, Wales with our dad in 2000, and coastal California and the Southwest US numerous times since 2007. More recently we traveled and hiked together in Tasmania and mainland Australia in 2017, Malta in 2018, Ireland in 2019, and Costa Rica in 2022. Clifford’s innate curiosity, far-reaching knowledge, boundless enthusiasm, and child-like sense of wonder for the natural world enriched my travels in so many ways. Here are some recent fond memories. . .