The Vagabond Hiker

Hiking, trekking, and climbing the world

Rapa Nui (aka Easter Island) Archeological walks

Easter Island, or Rapa Nui in the native language of the Polynesian people that first settled there, is one of the most remote inhabited islands in the world. (Tristan da Cunha in the southern Atlantic Ocean also lays claim to this title, depending on how one considers the year-round Antarctic base several hundred miles away). It is also not cheap to fly as LATAM airways is the only airline flying the nearly 2500 miles from Santiago (Rapa Nui is legally part of Chile) with between one and three flights per day depending on the season and day of the week. While providing the locals with much-needed income, the limited number of flights has the benefit of keeping the island from being over-run with tourists and their concomitant infrastructure that could easily ruin the whole experience.

Its compact size, interesting topography, and good road access to much of the island make Rapa Nui an ideal place to enjoy nature as well as the archeological remains from the Polynesians. Essential to planning your visit and appreciating the sites is A Companion To Easter Island (Guide To Rapa Nui) by James Grant Peterkin. We spent five night in a small AirBnB cabaña where we were able to rent a small 4×4. While we saw all the main sites, there were several more hikes to do had we more time – and had my gout not flared up!

Pastoral view from the Te Ara O Te Ao trail near its trailhead just west of the airport at Matarevi
Hanga Roa from the Te Ara O Te Ao trail. Hanga Roa is the only town on the island and where virtually all visitors stay. The runway is also visible in this photo.
Rano Kau crater and wetland. This is the only wetland on Rapa Nui and contains many endemic species.
Three islets off the southwest coast of Rapa Nui. The Tangata manu, or bird-man, was the winner of the competition to collect the first sooty tern egg of the season from Moto Nui (the largest islet shown here), swim back and climb the sea cliff to the village of Orongo.
Rapa Nui coastline near Ana Kai Tangata caves
Bird-man pictographs, Ana Kai Tangata.
Hanga Roa coastal view of the pebble beach and some restaurants and shops. Everything was expensive on the island, but the local seafood was excellent.
Petroglyphs at Papa Vaca (literally “stone canoe.”) Images at this site include fish hooks, tuna, canoes, turtles, and even one shark.
Rano Raraku quarry. If you visit one site on Easter, Rano Raraku with its over 400 Moai at various stages of production should be it. While you can walk the paths in less than an hour, plan on spending a morning here.
Moai in profile at Rano Raraku. Nearly all of the almost 900 known Moai were carved from tuff, compressed volcanic ash.
The kneeling Moai, Rano Raraku
A collection of Moai, Rano Raraku
Tongariki Moai and platform (ahu) from behind. This is the best example of the skill involved in constructing ahu for the Moai. Like all Moai, these had been toppled over during the civil wars on Rapa Nui and only recently restored.
The fifteen Moai at Tongariki. Note the top knot on the 2nd from the right Moai. Several others had similar red scoria (basaltic) head gear, but they have since been destroyed.
The “traveling” Moai at Tongariki. It was loaned to Japan for the 1970 World’s Fair and returned. In contrast, the British Museum, despite tearful entreaties from the Rapa Nui, has held the Hoa Hakananai’a for 150 years.
Rano Raraku quarry site seen from Tongariki.
Anakana platform (ahu) and Moai, many showing top knots. Anakana is one of only two white sand beaches on the island, popular with locals on the weekend.
Moai on its back at Akahanga. Very unusual since during the civil wars most Moai were toppled onto their faces to destroy their power.
Several top knots at Vaihu. Once thought to be hats, they more likely represent the hair style of the time. Only some of the later Moai were adorned with these massive basaltic sculptures.

And one final image to leave you with. . .

Tongariki and the rugged east coast of Rapa Nui from Rano Raraku

Right now I am relaxing on my balcony overlooking the Pacific Ocean just north of Viña del Mar in Chile, planning my travels through the summer and will shortly update my calendar accordingly. My next blog post, in a couple of weeks, will be a smorgasbord of different hikes and walks I did on mainland Chile this past month. In the mean time, enjoy the outdoors where ever you happen to be.

The Vagabond Hiker

Climbing Ojos del Salado, the Highest Volcano in the World

After my Peak Lenin frostbite issue (see my post from September 2017), until now I had hesitated in climbing another high peak. But curiosity as to the lingering effects on my fingers must have gotten the better of me. This past two weeks eight of us (five Brits, myself and another American, and a Swedish woman (the only woman) attempted to climb a series of ever-higher peaks culminating in the 6891 meter (22,608 ft) Ojos in Chile. Ojos, whose summit is on the Chile-Argentina border, is the second highest peak outside of the Himalaya and the highest volcano in the world. Unlike its slightly higher (about 200 ft) more southerly neighbor in Argentina, Aconcagua, climbing Ojos does not require stumping up about $1000 in permit fees. It also has an interesting scramble at its summit, which is generally protected if you are using guides, as we were. Also, since it is not THE HIGHEST mountain, but only the SECOND HIGHEST in both the western and southern hemispheres, only a fraction of the number of climbers attempt the summit. Finally, the road systems, mostly made for the mines in this corner of the Atacama desert, provide many options for nearby acclimatization hikes, eliminating the need to repeatedly go up and down the mountain before summit day.

The photos which follow give an idea of the experience. Just imagine you are in a meat locker with a high-powered fan blowing while climbing. Read on to see whether I reached the summit.

Vallecito acclimatization hike vista. Our first hike was a short leg-stretcher about 1500 ft above our 10,000 ft campsite in the Vallecito Valley
Laguna Santa Rosa at sunset. We spent 3 nights in a hut beside this lake while doing two acclimatization hikes.
Laguna Santa Rosa from our Hermanas Peak hike. This photo shows the mineral salts around the lake. Hermanas Peak is 4950 m (about 16,250 ft). A little blob in the landscape, it is higher than Mount Blanc. Forty-plus mile an hour winds on the ridges made the climb not particularly enjoyable.
A flamingo feeding in Laguna Santa Rosa at sunset. There were several dozen altogether, but they were very shy so my 6x optical zoom couldn’t really do them justice.
Summit view from Cerro Pastillitos (5090 m, 16,700 ft) with the Tres Cruces far in the background. This peak was a long scree climb, our first over 5000 meters. All eight clients attained the summit.
Lagunas Verdes in the morning. After Laguna Santa Rosa, we drove to this highly toxic lake at about 4200 meters for the next 2 nights of camping.
A dessicated cow at Lagunas Verdes. Perhaps it drank from the arsenic-laced water that precludes any life? The warm springs on the lake shore were a welcome relief to some of us, however.
Some of our group at a rest stop during ascent of Carrancas Blancas. It was our first 6000 meter peak.
The Vagabond Hiker pointing out Ojos from near the Carrancas Blancas summit
Our summit team on Carrancas Blancas. I am on the left here. Only four of the eight clients reached the 6000 m (19,700 ft) south summit. The true summit is more than a mile along the ridge and only 200 ft higher, so no one made the additional 4 hour trek.
The Atacama Basecamp. About 5220 meters (17,100 ft), we camped there four nights during our climb of Ojos.
Ojos from the road hike up to Tejos Refuge. At 5825 meters (19,100 ft) supposedly it is the highest refuge in the world. While it is sometime used as a high camp, the small container-like building only has 8 bunks so we later chose to drive up to it to commence the summit day climb.
Ice Penitentes on the hike up to the Tejos refuge. These formations are common high in the Andes, and are a product of very dry air, strong winds, and of course the cold.
Dawn view with my boot on the Ojos climb. We had started climbing at 2:45 AM and I took this photo at about 6:30 during a rest break. There was no snow, so ice axes and crampons were not required. With the cold, though, double mountaineering boots were mandatory. At this point sunrise was about 1/2 hour away, but on the west side of the mountain it would not reach us until the summit block.
I reached the summit of Ojos del Salado (6891 meters, 22,608 ft) at 9:15 AM. Note the burly mitts to keep from getting a repeat of my Peak Lenin frost bite. Argentina is behind me. Two other clients (out of eight) attained the summit.
A final view of Ojos from Murray refuge with mining junk in the fore ground. We completed the trip in only 11 days (10 nights), much faster than is typically done on Aconcagua.
A study in contrasts on our jeep descent through Atacama foothills. The streams are created by snow melt in the summer. Contrary to common perception, it does precipitate in the Atacama, though generally only at high elevation as snow.

For the next 3 days I will be in Santiago, then on to other parts of Chile for the next 7 weeks. I expect to do another 2-3 posts during that time, though admittedly nothing nearly as extreme as Ojos. Stay tuned and keep hiking!

The Vagabond Hiker

Trekking and climbing in the Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru

How does one even begin to describe the wonderful two weeks we spent in the Cordillera Huayhuash?  My friend Bob organized a group of hiking and canyoneering friends from St George Utah for this trek with the company Peruvian Andes Adventures. Our group of nine clients was very ably supported by a head mountaineering guide, a fantastic cook, and two assistant cooks who also helped as porters.  Most of the group equipment and personal kit was carried on 23 donkeys, managed by four muleteers.

The trek was a roughly clockwise circuit of the Cordillara Huayhuash, several hours drive from the mountain town of Huaraz (itself a 7 hour bus journey from Lima).  After two days of acclimatization hikes near Huaraz, we headed up into the Huayhuash. In addition to 10 actual trek days, we had three rest days where we spent two consecutive nights at the same camp. Most of us went on short out and back hikes on our three rest days. Four of us also traversed Diablo Mudo on day 13, a relatively straightforward rock and snow climb with inclines of up to about 45 degrees.

The following photos try to convey some of the sublime grandeur and beauty of the Peruvian Andes. I tried to be very selective in choosing only the most interesting photos, but as you’ll soon realize, that was not an easy thing to do. They are in strict chronological order.

Mountain view from my hotel room in Huaraz. The usual starting point for trekking in the Cordillera Blanca and Huayhuash, it is easily the largest city in this part of Peru, with more than 100,000 inhabitants.

Lago and Nevada Churup, our second acclimatization hike in the Cordillera Blanca near Huaraz

Our lunch spot on day 1, en-route to Llamac, our trailhead where we would start trekking the following day.

Cantua buxifolia, a sacred flower to the Incas and the national flower of Peru

View in the mist, day 2, Llamac Valley

Day 3 vista from near Cacanan Punta, our first high pass

Misty view on the afternoon of day 3

Lupines in the mist, day 3

Two of our group, Marie and Jimmy, above a lake on day 3

 

Likely Gentianella hirculus

Day 3 view of Laguna Mitucocha from our camp

Day 3 view of Nevada Ninashanca from camp

A panorama I stitched together above Laguna Carhuacocha on day 4 with Yerupaja (c) and Siula Grande (l) of Touching the Void fame providing the backdrop

Morning light at our camp at Laguno Carhuacocha on day 5, the first “rest” day. Yerupaja is on the left here.

Three lakes view under Siula Grande and Yerupaja, giants of the Huayhuash, day 6. At 6,617 meters, Yerupaja is the 2nd highest mountain in Peru.

The Vagabond Hiker at Siula Punta (4830m)

Our campsite at Huayhuash

Some of our 23 donkeys on day 7. The pyramidal mountain is Nevada Cuyoc

In the thermal baths. After a week on trek they were much appreciated!

Gentiana sedifolia, day 8

Nevada Cuyoc

A mushroom rock formation, reminiscent of Utah

Hypochearis sessiliflora

View with yellow-flowered shrub and cactus

Local girls at Huanacpatay camp

Our Huanacpatay campsite

Our group at Santa Rosa pass (5030 m), day 9. This was our highest pass of the trek.

An Andean condor near Santa Rosa pass. Admittedly not a good picture of this magnificent and iconic bird. . .

Siula Grande and its namesake glacier, day 10. We were near the climbers’ base camp on the West side of the mountain (previous photos were from the East side) on this 2nd “rest” day.

Waterfall near Cutatambo camp

Red flowers, possibly Bomarea, near the waterfall

A Lupinus mutabilis (aka Andean lupine) forest, on the morning of day 11

Salvia striata

Orecocereus cactus flower

A rushing stream on day 11 as we headed down towards Huayllapa village.

Huayllapa village. Apart from Llamac at the start and finish, this was the low point and the only village we saw on the trek, at only 3,600 meters (10,800 ft)!

Calceolaria Integrifolio (aka baby booties)

Oxalis adenophylla (aka silver shamrock) detail, day 12

A thorny Chuquiragua shrub (“flower of the Andes”) and mountain backdrop

Climbing a high ridge on Diablo Mudo, day 13. We started at 3 AM and this photo was taken about 6:30 AM when we were still almost 2 1/2 hours from the summit.

Dawn view high on Diablo Mudo

Our rope team (minus our guide) on the summit of Diablo Mudo, 5350 meters (17,650 ft). Four of us made this optional climb, which was a 10 1/2 hour day.

Celebrating on the summit of Diablo Mudo with our guide Marco

A cushion plant (Asteraceae) seen on the descent from Diablo Mudo

Tephrocactus floccosus cactus in flower, day 14

A Polylepis tree with semi-parasitic pupa shrub flowers

A gnarled polylepis tree

Ferns in a cave by Laguna Jahuacocha on rest day 14

Laguna Jahuacocha view

The lower portion of a waterfall near our final camp

Our final camp, days 14 and 15

Sunset from my tent on day 14. On the following day we hiked back to Llamac, a relatively easy 8 miles.

Tonight I fly back to London from Lima, Peru for a few days of R&R before my trip to Italy next week where I’ll be hiking and (possibly) climbing in the Mont Blanc (or, as the Italians say, Monte Bianco) region.  Until my next blog post, happy trails!

The Vagabond Hiker

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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