When my Choquequirao trek was canceled last year, I had little expectation that I would be going on this amazing trek anytime soon. But, one year on, that is exactly what happened. This time, despite having only three clients, KE Adventures elected to run the trip. As it turned out, my fourth trek in Peru was the most challenging of my life. The wildflowers we encountered are well-represented here, in part because of their sheer numbers and variety, and in part because taking the time with these macros provided a chance to catch my breath! Enjoy.

Pre-trek: Cusco area and Saywite Archeological Site

As with any trek in the Cusco region of Peru, the first couple days are spent acclimatizing in and around Cusco (elevation 3400 m) and the Sacred Valley. This time was no exception as we visited several local Incan sites as well as enjoyed a city tour.

Choquequirao Trek Overview

Sitting astride a high ridge amongst the snow-capped peaks of Peru, the Inca fortress of Choquequirao is one of the most important discoveries of Inca antiquity. Already a rival to Machu Picchu in terms of its size, if not its splendor, more buildings and llama-decorated terraces are being excavated each year. More remote and challenging to access than Machu Picchu, it is consequently far less visited and still offers one the chance to wander freely amongst the evocative ruins and explore the terraces in relative solitude. KE Adventure’s fully supported trek was by way of the awe-inspiring canyon of the Apurimac River, involving an exciting descent and ascent of almost 2000 m to reach camp beside the citadel of Choquequirao. After two half-days exploring this amazing complex, we continued trekking for five more days through the rugged and beautiful Cordillera Vilcabamba, a region dominated by impressive snowy 6000 m peaks, including Pumasillo and Salkantay.

The trek by the numbers:

• Nine days
• 78.5 total kilometers*
• 6730 meters total elevation gain*
• 4643 meters highest elevation

* I only did a partial ascent/descent on Day 7, reflected in the totals shown

Day 1: Capuliyoc to Chiquiska campsite

8 km, 120 m gain

We made a very early start from Cusco today, which included a stop at the Saywite archeological site (see previous photo) and featured lunch at the trailhead as our mules were being sorted. The afternoon hike was an easy introduction to the area, as it was mostly descending towards the Apurimac Canyon.

Day 2: Chiquiska campsite to Marampata camp

8 km, 1550 m gain

After descending to the Apurimac River, a long, tiring ascent to Marampata camp followed. I needed to have a mule carry my pack the last hour or so. A stomach bug, nausea, and concomitant dehydration made this the most difficult trekking day I’ve ever completed.

Day 3: Marampata camp to Choquequirao

9.5 km, 600 m gain

After resting and hydrating at camp (and avoiding food), I was somewhat recovered for day 3, which included an afternoon at the Choquequirao site, the first of two explorations we would have at this amazing complex.

Day 4: Choquequirao to Pincha Unuyoc

7 km, 450 m gain

After a couple hours in the morning for further exploration of Choquequirao, we continued down to Pincha Unuyoc. I was feeling better, and spent much of the hike exploring the macro capabilities of my Olympus TG-6.

Day 5: Pincha Unuyoc to Maizal

8 km, 1160 m gain

The first of three “summit” days, featuring extended ascents . . .

Day 6: Maizal to the Rio Yanama Valley

9.5 km, 1200 m gain

Our second “summit” day was to the Abra San Juan, our 2nd highest pass of the trek.

Day 7: Rio Yanama Valley to Totora village

11 km, 500 m gain*

* Reflecting my partial ascent/descent

Our “summit” on day 7 was for me a step too far. I did the first (easiest) half of the ascent and the second half (likewise more gentle) of the descent, catching the van transporting our camping supplies for the more challenging bits. (Our mules left us the evening before, exchanged for a rather clapped-out van).

Day 8: Totora to Lucmabamba

17 km, 300 m gain

After three long ascents, today’s hike – the longest of the trek – was actually not that challenging as it generally descended along the valley.

Day 9: Lucmabamba to the Urubamba Hydro Dam

11.5 km, 850 m gain

Today featured one final pass to climb, whose summit provided views towards Machu Picchu. After lunch at a restaurant, we completed the trek in the early afternoon and caught the train to Agaus Calientes for a nice hot shower at our hotel.

Post-trek: Machu Picchu

We explored this phenomenal World Heritage Site for more than three hours the morning after our trek, before returning by bus/train/private van to Cusco. It was my first visit since 2009. Only one photo since I’m sure you’ve already seen many. . .

An interesting side note regarding the artifacts that Hiram Bingham brought back to Yale from his excavations at Machu Picchu between 1911 and 1916 is that many were finally returned this past decade to Peru where some museum-quality pieces are now available to see at the Museo Casa Concha in Cusco. I highly recommend a visit there when next you are in that special city.

Once again I am back in Italy, enjoying early morning walks and hikes in the Arco area of Trentino, before the heat of the day drives me indoors. Next week I relocate to northern Brescia in Lombardy, to the west of the Dolomites proper. Surrounded by two large national parks, it is an area of northern Italy that I have not explored, and promises some very interesting hiking. Either my upcoming month in Brescia or a recently completed “City Break” trip will be the subject of my next blog post. Until then, stay cool outdoors,

The Vagabond Hiker

When last minute cancellations by other clients put paid to my plan to trek to the Incan site of Choquequirao, I signed up instead for an extended Ausangate Circuit trek in the remote Cordillera Vilcanota range of the Andes, south of Cusco, a city I hadn’t visited since 2009. After two days of acclimatization near Cusco, we commenced our nine day trek. Our group of seven clients, one guide and a horseman with his “sag” horse hiked about 90 km (56 miles) and ascended more than 3700 m (12,100 ft). While the distances and elevation gains were not great, the altitude certainly was: five high passes which ranged from 4850 to 5200 meters (15,900 to 17,060 ft).

The Cordillera Vilcanota boasts several 6000m peaks, including the sacred Ausangate, at 6372m (20,900 ft), the highest mountain in southern Peru. This high and wild trekking circuit wound its way on quiet trails through this rarely-visited range, following lovely alpine valleys and traversing a series of passes connecting them. After a lovely soak in the Pachanta town hot springs one afternoon, the usual end point for the Ausangate Circuit trek, our trek continued another 2 1/2 days, highlighted by the remote and stunning Laguna Singrenacocha.

Enjoy some of the hundreds of photos that I took!

I chose to spend this summer in the Rocky Mountains of southwest Colorado and on the eastern side of the Sierra Nevada range of California. If I get some decent photos, expect one or two blog posts from some of my numerous day hikes. In early September I will be traveling around Europe for about 5 1/2 weeks, trekking across the Picos de Europa in northern Spain and the Julian Alps in Slovenia (yes, I know they are not particularly close together!), and doing a series of walks on São Miguel Island in the Azores. Expect three more blog posts this autumn from those adventures!

In the meantime, enjoy as much of the summer outdoors as you can,

The Vagabond Hiker

How does one even begin to describe the wonderful two weeks we spent in the Cordillera Huayhuash?  My friend Bob organized a group of hiking and canyoneering friends from St George Utah for this trek with the company Peruvian Andes Adventures. Our group of nine clients was very ably supported by a head mountaineering guide, a fantastic cook, and two assistant cooks who also helped as porters.  Most of the group equipment and personal kit was carried on 23 donkeys, managed by four muleteers.

The trek was a roughly clockwise circuit of the Cordillara Huayhuash, several hours drive from the mountain town of Huaraz (itself a 7 hour bus journey from Lima).  After two days of acclimatization hikes near Huaraz, we headed up into the Huayhuash. In addition to 10 actual trek days, we had three rest days where we spent two consecutive nights at the same camp. Most of us went on short out and back hikes on our three rest days. Four of us also traversed Diablo Mudo on day 13, a relatively straightforward rock and snow climb with inclines of up to about 45 degrees.

The following photos try to convey some of the sublime grandeur and beauty of the Peruvian Andes. I tried to be very selective in choosing only the most interesting photos, but as you’ll soon realize, that was not an easy thing to do. They are in strict chronological order.

 

Tonight I fly back to London from Lima, Peru for a few days of R&R before my trip to Italy next week where I’ll be hiking and (possibly) climbing in the Mont Blanc (or, as the Italians say, Monte Bianco) region.  Until my next blog post, happy trails!

The Vagabond Hiker