The Vagabond Hiker

Hiking, trekking, and climbing the world

Peak Lenin climb, Kyrgyzstan

I had been anticipating and training for this climb for nearly half a year.  On the morning of August 28, along with one other client and two guides, I successfully reached the summit of one of only five 7000-meter mountains in the former Soviet Union.  While not technically difficult, the climb was certainly one of the most physically and mentally challenging adventures I have undertaken.

By summit day, all other groups had started down the mountain or already left.  The increasingly cold, unpredictable weather was becoming problematic.  In a typical season (from June to August), Peak Lenin sees only a 30% success rate.  During the 16 days we spent on the mountain, the success rate wasn’t even that high.  While weather certainly accounted for some, and lack of physical conditioning accounted for others, as with many mountains, the mental challenges may have been the single greatest cause of failure.

These photos, which include some taken by our leader Stu Peacock and one from another client, document my experiences on Peak Lenin.

Personally, while I did indeed reach the top, I did so at a not insignificant cost.  The bitingly cold conditions, exacerbated by numerous small (and a couple not so small) decisions of mine and the guides, resulted in 2nd degree frostbite on seven of my fingers.  Eventually, that necessitated a medical evacuation back to the UK for more treatment and what will I’m certain prove to be months of healing to get full functionality and feeling back in my hands.

While expeditions like Peak Lenin can be wonderful experiences, spending weeks out in an amazing natural setting with like-minded individuals and insulated from the nastiness of world politics, they are not worth such sacrifices.  Recognizing and promptly treating the symptoms of maladies such as pulmonary and cerebral edema and frostbite, sometimes easier done in an arm chair than high on a mountain, are key to the safe enjoyment of some of nature’s greatest monuments.

The Vagabond Hiker

Peak Lenin on the approach drive to Base Camp (BC)
View of our BC ridge acclimatization walk
Flowers along an acclimatization ridge walk from BC. Jane, another client, is taking a photo in the background.
More late season flowers along the BC ridge acclimatization walk flowers
The north face of Peak Lenin at sunset from Base Camp
The vista along the hike from Base Camp (BC) to Advanced Base Camp (ABC), which in effect became our base camp until we left the mountain
Peak Lenin from Advanced Base Camp (ABC). The route ascends several hundred meters up the face, then traverses to the right behind the nearer features, before ascending the main summit ridge from right to left.
The route we took up a nearby ridge for an acclimatization camp from ABC
Jane on the route up to ABC acclimatization hike camp
The Vagabond Hiker at 5100 m at the ABC acclimatization camp
At the start of the glacier, about an hour out of ABC (Stu)
Resting on the glacier ascent from ABC to Camp 2 (Stu)
Heading up the glacier (Stu)
Two of our group above a glacier crevasse. The glacier had numerous crevasses, necessitating roped travel during most of the first day above ABC (Stu).
Stu on the glacier in the “Frying Pan” below Camp 2. He anchored our glacier ascent, with Andre leading the way at the front of the rope
Two of us heading up to Camp 2, seen as some yellow and orange tents on the rocks and snow in the center of the photo
Stu, Andre, and Jane at Camp 2. Andre, our local guide, was immensely strong and did porter duties also, bringing up our tents and stoves.
Camp 2 at 5300 m. Somehow I got this shot without showing any of the garbage piles.
What is known as “Pig Hill,” a tough climb up to camp 3
An atmospheric photo of climbers ascending Pig Hill up to Camp 3 (Stu)
By my tent at camp 3 (Jane)
Andre at Camp 3 during our acclimatization climb, looking up at the summit ridge (Stu)
Peck Lenin with clouds, taken from near Camp 3. Snow and high winds were also part and parcel of our time on the mountain.
During a rest break as we headed up to High Camp (Camp 4, 6400 meters) on the summit ridge (Stu)
Jane arriving at Camp 4. She and I were the only two clients (out of six) that would summit.
The Vagabond Hiker resting in our Camp 4 tent the afternoon prior to the summit day (Stu). We made an “alpine start” the next morning at 4:15 AM.
Peak Lenin summit view. We ascended from the right side here
On top of Pk Lenin, 7134 meters (23,405 ft) above sea level. The climb from Camp 4 took about 6 1/2 hrs. Removing my mittens even only for a minute or two proved a big mistake.
Surrounded by crevasses on the descent (Jane)
In the ABC mess yurt after the climb (Jane)

Reykjavik Recon

Four days in Iceland hardly suffices to explore even a fraction of the hiking opportunities on offer near Reykjavik.  Even more so when one feels compelled to experience some of the abundant tourist sites and walk around the city itself.  I spent two days driving around the south of Iceland and the Reykjanes Peninsula, stopping at the usual tourist sites: thermal springs and fumaroles, basaltic columns, sea stacks, natural arches, glaciers, waterfalls, surf cauldrons, etc.  Even within a one-day drive of this northern-most capital in the world, the possibilities are limitless.  And I didn’t even have time to drive the popular route known as the Golden Circle, usually the first item on a tourist’s checklist.

Whilst I surely enjoyed the tourist sites, and some certainly involved walking, I took a grand total of zero photos at these sites.  That’s not to say that they were not photo-worthy. Far from it.  But in the jostle of dozens to hundreds of other tourists, I felt more connected to the landscape using only my eyes, shutting out the other featherless bipeds as much as possible.  (Bipeds of the feathered variety were quite impressive, by the way, and included puffins nesting on a South Coast cliff).

I did squeeze in two hikes of note, however.  Both are certainly in anyone’s top ten in the Reykjavik area: Glymur Falls (now only the 2nd highest in Iceland) and Mt Esja, the “city” mountain of Reykjavik, easily distinguished as the long ridge to the north of the city.  The following few photos highlight these two very worthwhile hikes.  Go early in the day while others are nursing their hangovers to best enjoy these hikes.

View of Hvalfjörður fjord and mountains, en-route to the Glymur Falls trail
View near the trailhead of the Glymur Falls trail. I’m not sure what those flowers are that have gone to seed.
The exit from the short cave near the Botnsá River through which the Glymur Falls trail passes
The first Botnsá river crossing. The log and cable are only in place during the summer.
Botnsá River vista downstream towards Hvalfjörður. Unlike most others, I did this hike as a loop, ascending on the left here to above the falls, and then descending on the right side.
Upper half of the Glymur Falls, which is really a cascade, with total height of about 198 meters.
Another view of the Glymur falls, showing some of its complexity.  The Botnsá River is seen on the left.
Up close and personal with the Glymur Falls.  Few hikers waded across to this side and I doubt any others got close enough to really experience the power of the falls.
Mt Esja lupines and clover.  There are numerous routes up and around the long ridge known as Mt Esja.  I hiked the most popular variant, to the Þverfellshorn summit (though most only hike up to an undistinguished rock known as the “Steinn,” avoiding the more interesting summit cone).
View south toward Reykjavik from Mt Esja’s Þverfellshorn summit
Þverfellshorn summit orographic disc

So, is Reykjavik and environs worth a visit?  I can most definitely answer in the affirmative, provided one’s budget permits (this must be the most expensive country in the world!) and one’s tolerance for tourists is similarly high.

My next blog post will be in 5 weeks, of my summit attempt on Pik Lenin in Kyrgystan’s Pamir Mountains.  In the mean time,

Happy trails,

The Vagabond Hiker

Day Hikes in the Canadian Rockies

As my month staying in Dead Man’s Flats (near Canmore and Banff, Alberta) comes to an end and the next stage of my adventure approaches, I find that I have only begun to scratch the surface of the outdoor opportunities this area offers.  Indeed, most of my hikes were within a 30-40 minutes’ drive of my condo; I never even visited several provincial and national parks that were within easy driving distance for a day trip.  It looks like I’ll have to return to do justice to the Canadian Rockies!

Johnston Creek, a very popular (and easy) day hike near Banff
Johnston Canyon Upper Falls
Bow Mt. and Bow Lake from the Helen Lake trail.  The Bow River rises above its eponymous lake.  The hike to Helen Lake is a popular one from the Icefields Parkway.
Lake Helen and Cirque Peak, Banff National Park.  I only climbed the 100 meters to the ridge shown, not the extra 400 meters needed to reach the summit.
The aptly named Dolomite Peak from the ridge above Lake Helen
Lake Helen from the ridge
Mt Lougheed from Wind Ridge.  The trailhead was only a few kilometers from my Dead Man’s Flat condo.
Canmore from Mt. Lawrence Grassi summit.  Mt Lawrence Grassi is 900 meters straight up from the Spray Lakes Road.  I was the only one of the mountain that day.
Goat Lake from Mt Lawrence Grassi summit
Wildflowers on the C-level Cirque trail near Lake Minnewanka
Lake Louise view towards the Plains of the Six Glaciers and Mt Victoria.  It seemed that most of the province was at Lake Louise that day.
Pink columbines along the Plain of the Six Glaciers trail
View of Victoria Glacier (much of which is covered with debris) from a lateral moraine
Mt Cory (left) and Mt Edith with Cory Pass as the low point between them
The crux of the Mt Edith climb is this 15 meter chimney, about hip width and fortunately not as steep as it looks.
Mt Cory and Cory Pass from Mt Edith summit
The impressive south face of Mt Loius (right) as seen from Mt Edith summit.  Definitely NOT a scrambler’s objective!
Mt Yamnuska scrambling route to the summit (at right).  Apart from a section with chains, the scrambling was straightforward.
Mt Yamnuska summit view of the descent route to the West.  Lots of “boot skiing” was enjoyed on this descent.
Heart Mt. from near Heart Creek trailhead, just down the road from Dead Man’s Flats
Lac des Arcs (sans cement plant) from Heart Mt. summit
Unnamed twin peaks from Grant MacEwen summit, the second peak of the Heart Mountain horseshoe traverse
A Mt Grant MacEwen Hoary Marmot. Or is it a small bear?
The route to Cascade Mt. summit.  At more than 1500 meters ascent, Cascade Mountain was the longest hike I did in the Canadian Rockies
Big Horn sheep on Cascade Mt. ridge
The Cascade Mt. summit traverse. Despite appearances, no snow was on the trail; with snow or ice it can be quite hazardous.
The Vagabond Hiker on top of Cascade Mt. (2998m)
Cascade summit view southeast to Lake Minnewanka.  The smoke was quite bad that afternoon in the Banff area.
Horse Thief Canyon, Drumheller, Alberta. Red Deer River is in the background.  Part of the Badlands, Drumheller is about one hour drive east of Calgary.
Maggie in Horse Thief Canyon, Drumheller, Alberta

My next post will feature some photos from day trips around Reykjavik, Iceland.  In the mean time,

Happy Trails,

The Vagabond Hiker

 

 

 

 

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