The Vagabond Hiker

Hiking, trekking, and climbing the world

Grand Canyon backpack: Tanner and Beamer trails to the Confluence

The auguries were decidedly propitious when the Grand Canyon Park Authority, in consultation with the Navajo Nation, opened the East Entrance after a year of Covid closure on the precise day we were arriving for our backpacking trip, saving us hours of driving time from St George, Utah. A friend’s cancellation left a spot on Lynda’s 5 day, 4 night permit, which I did not hesitate to take advantage of. Cutting short my recovery from patellar tendinitis by a couple of days, I braced myself (quite literally) for the 4700 ft descent from the South Kaibab plateau to the Colorado River. The following photos highlight a bit of this magical place. Enjoy!

Grand Canyon vista from Lipan Point, 7200 ft elevation. A few miles west of Devil’s Tower, the Tanner trailhead is nearby. Escalante Butte is in the right foreground. The weather was perfect the entire trip, with overnight lows in the 50’s and afternoon highs in the upper 80’s in the canyon.
Lynda at a view point on the Tanner trail descent
A collared lizard. Unlike many we saw, this fellow was quite bold.
Rafters at Tanner camp, sunset day 1. Our descent of 8 miles and 4700 ft took us about 6 hours at a gentle pace.
Beavertail cactus (Opuntia basilaris) along the Beamer trail to Palisades camp. Our second day was an easy 4 miles along the Colorado River.
Lynda hiking on the Beamer trail, early morning of day 3. In contrast to day 2, our third day demanded an early start for the 12-14 mile round trip hike beyond the confluence of the Colorado and Little Colorado Rivers. Despite online reviews and official park information suggesting a difficult trail, in fact it was an easy walk along a bench several hundred feet above the river.
Temple Butte at sunrise. The bench along which the Beamer trail runs is on the right above the river-level cliffs. Admittedly, we enjoyed a bit of exposure in places.
View approaching the confluence with the Little Colorado River
The Confluence. The bright turquoise color of the Little Colorado is from high levels of dissolved solids, mostly naturally occurring salts. In addition, the radium content of the LCR is very high, rendering it non-potable.
Federally protected Humpback chub (Gila cypha) at the Confluence. Although their humps are not clear in this zoom shot, their deeply forked tails are noticeable. Habitat destruction – not least the construction of the Glen Canyon dam – has dramatically reduced their population in the last half-century.
Lynda floating in the Little Colorado, much warmer than the main stem of the river, which exits Gen Canyon dam at 52F.
Vista of the Colorado looking downstream from the Beamer trail on day 3. Some afternoon overcast provided a respite from the intense sun.
Sunrise from Palisades camp, day 4. Staying two nights at the same camp had meant light loads on our day hike to the Confluence.
Dories on the Colorado River. A 16-18 day dory trip from Lees Ferry to Diamond Creek is definitely on my bucket list!
Another view of the Colorado River. A portion of Tanner Rapids is visible here.
Rather than having a leisurely day 4 and making the complete ascent back to the rim on day 5, we climbed up to a great campsite at about 4800 ft elevation for the final night.
Looking up at the South Rim at sunset from our camp. The small finger of Devil’s Tower is visible.
Scarlet Hedgehog (Echinocereus coccineus) cactus on the Tanner trail, day 5
Detail of the Scarlet Hedgehog cactus
View towards the Tabernacle, Rama Shrine, and Vishnu Temple. This fantastic viewpoint provided a great snack stop before the steep final ascent to the canyon’s rim.

Although I will surely struggle to match the dramatic beauty this trip offered is future blog posts , this year I will endeavor to convey a bit of the amazing western United States. Stay tuned!

The Vagabond Hiker

Myanmar Revisited: its landscapes and people

The past two months has brought horrible news from Myanmar. A military coup overthrowing the elected government on the sham justification of a stolen election (sound familiar?) has become progressively more violent, while the world watches and does precisely – nothing.

I looked back over some of the photos I took during a two week visit and trek back in December 2012, during the heady early days of democracy. President Obama had just visited a week prior, and the world was watching Myanmar with great expectations as it emerged from decades of military rule.

Of course, this was long before the Tatmadaw’s (army’s) unspeakable atrocities that began in 2016, aided and abetted by some militant Buddhist monks, against the Rohingya minority in Rakhine State. And long before the subsequent debasement in 2019 of Daw Aung San Suu Kyi, with her despicable defense of their crimes against humanity.

While I am not a naive optimist that the recent events will lead to a reinstatement of a semblance of democracy and a reining in of the Tatmadaw, it was good to revisit more peaceful scenes of this beautiful country and its wonderful people. I hope you enjoy these photos.

The Vagabond Hiker

Nan She Oo, our Pa-o guide who was studying English in university. In addition to the Burmese majority, there are more than 100 ethnic groups in Myanmar, including the Pa-o.
Kakku stupa (religious shrine) garden reflected in pool
The bucolic view from Aythaya Vineyards, Shan State. Their wines were surprisingly good.
An orchid at the monastery where we stayed after the first day of our four-day trek
A young drover and his passengers, Shan State. Few of the locals had seen westerners before, and even the adults greeted us with enthusiasm.
Winnowing rice, day three of our trek. Some of us “helped out,” much to the amusement of the locals.
Stupas and “monklets” on day 3 of our trek. These novices are likely only 8 or 9 years old.
Shan Plateau vista on day three of our trek. The hilly plateau at about 4000 ft elevation is much cooler than the main basin of the Irrawaddy River.
Loading teak on the Irrawaddy. Elements of the Tatmadaw control most of the licit and illicit trade in teak, jade, and opium
Stilt houses on Inle Lake
A young Inle Lake boat builder. These teak boats are well suited to the shallow lake.
A fisherman on Inle Lake, Shan State. The technique of propelling the craft on the shallow lake develops a fisherman’s calf muscles to an unbelievable degree.
Collecting seaweed for fertilizer on Inle Lake. It’s surprising their boats don’t capsize!
Lotus flowers and our hotel rooms on Inle Lake. To many the lotus flower is a symbol of purity, enlightenment, self-regeneration and rebirth. One can only hope.
A Bagan market stall in happier times
Stupas at sunset, Bagan. There are literally hundreds of these shrines around the ancient city and World Heritage Site of Bagan.
Hat vendor’s wares, Mingun
The famous U Bein teak bridge spanning Taungthaman Lake, at sunset
Vintage Elephant Coach near Sule Pagoda, Yangon, the scene of many recent protests
The Shwedagon Pagoda, the most sacred in Yangon and all of southern Myanmar. At sunset pilgrims throng to the site.
A friend I wanted to take home with me. . .

Day hikes in the California desert

One year ago I wished everyone a Happy New Year from Cartagena, Colombia. At the time I set myself a challenge to reach a goal of 100 countries visited (at the time I had visited 80) by the end of the year. I went so far as to plan no less than eight different trips to about 25 different countries. I managed to visit only three new countries (El Salvador, Nicaragua, and Cape Verde) before the world closed down and my plans all went out the window. So much for New Year’s resolutions!

As the Spanish authorities did not want me to spend this winter in the sunshine of the Canaries, running out of options I returned to the States. Still seeking the sun, I now find myself under a “stay-at-home” order in Indio, California. Fortunately, the lock-down specifically exempts hiking and outdoor (properly socially-distanced) swimming pools. So, I really have much to be thankful for and hope that all of you do, too.

Here are some photos from the solo hikes I’ve been taking in December 2020 and January 2021. I’ve been adding to this blog since I originally posted it on January 1st rather than posting a new blog before I relocate to St George, Utah for the spring.

Stay safe and have fun outdoors in 2021!

The Vagabond Hiker

Looking back towards the town of La Quinta from the Bear Canyon/Oasis trail. It’s a very popular trailhead, but once I was 1/2 mile in I was alone for most of the rest of the 8 mile hike.
Bear Canyon Oasis. California fan palms (Washingtonia filifera) are California’s only native palm species – and as you shall see a favorite of mine!
One major advantage of returning to the States is that I bought a car! After four years of renting whatever was cheapest, my new 2021 Subaru Crosstrek Sport is absolutely wonderful. I had this versatile all wheel drive SUV upgraded with off-road wheels and tires and a lift kit installed. I also bought a proper spare tire, shown here in a Thule roof basket. This photo was taken at a remote wash at the southern boundary of Joshua Tree National Park.
The objective of this remote canyon hike was “Carey’s Castle,” in the Eagle Mountains of Joshua Tree. Patty Furbush’s book On Foot in Joshua Tree National Park poses the challenge of finding the site without giving much of a clue as to where it is. My AllTrails app greatly simplified the task.
The inside of Carey’s Castle. Nothing a little TLC won’t take care of. It is safe to assume that Carey, a prospector from the 1940’s, had different expectations for an abode than did the 1st Duke of Marlborough.
Plateau view with yuccas near Carey’s Castle. I love the Monzogranite rock of Joshua Tree.
A great example of Barrel Cactus, snuggled cozily in a bed of Joshua Tree monzogranite
A Palo Verde tree (Parkinsonia florida) in an Eagle Mountains canyon
49th Avenue, Indio, after overnight snow on Mt San Jacinto (on the right here). At 10,804 ft, San Jacinto is the high point of Riverside County. My local walk from the resort I’m staying at is down this pleasant avenue.
View towards Martinez Mountain heading to Boo Hoff trail in La Quinta. A relatively nearby trailhead I’ve had all to myself (since 4wd is required), I hiked the surrounding areas several times. My objective this day was Devil Canyon in the Santa Rosa Mountains, one of the many excellent hikes in Phil Ferranti’s 140 Great Hikes in and Near Palm Springs, although he calls it Lost Canyon.
Ocotillo Cactus (Fouquieria splendens) in bloom against the skyline along the Boo Hoff trail. Very little is blooming at present as most flora are waiting for the winter rains.
Reflection in a small pool, beyond Devil Canyon, taken on another day’s further exploration.
Boo Hoff trail La Quinta. This photo was taken at the high point, near the mid point of the trail.
Lovely morning light at the Monument Mountain “trailhead” along the Pinkham Jeep track in Joshua Tree NP. I had attempted this mountain several years ago as a backpack from a different trailhead (lacking a proper off road vehicle). Running low on water in the desert heat, I abandoned the attempt but vowed to return.
After two hours I reached the summit of Monument Mountain (4834 ft). This is a view NE from the summit. The Pinto Basin and Mountains of Joshua Tree NP are in the middle distance.
My second objective this day was the Cottonwood Mountains high point. My approximate cross country route is shown by the squiggly red line.
Monument Mountain as seen from the Cottonwood HP summit
Magnesia Springs Canyon entrance. This canyon is just west of the community of Rancho Mirage.
A Desert Big Horn Sheep ewe in Magnesia Springs Canyon (zoom). The area is now closed for several months for the breeding season.
Pleasant walking through the Magnesia Springs Canyon palm grove
On a separate hike in the Magnesia Springs Canyon area, I’m posing at a dryfall. Fun scrambling was had in this canyon complex!
The rugged landscape of the San Jacinto foothills is clear from this view from above a side canyon off Magnesia Springs Canyon. Note the grove of dead palms (bottom center). Amazingly, this photo was taken only a few miles from the Rancho Mirage Ferrari dealer.
The Painted Canyon of Mecca Hills. I had never hiked in this area at the south end of the Coachella Valley near the Salton Sea.
Morning light in Painted Canyon, Mecca Hills Wilderness. Ladder Canyon goes off to the left at the break in the canyon walls.
Looking up one of the ladders, Ladder Canyon, Mecca Hills. Volunteer members of the Coachella Valley Hiking Club maintain a series of ladders in these canyons.
Another Ladder Canyon view. This slot canyon reminded me of southern Utah.
Likely Palmer’s Indian Mallow (Abutilon palmeri), Painted Canyon, Mecca Hills. It’s a bit out of focus due to the winds. (I should have shot a short high res video and extracted a properly focused still frame, but was too lazy).
Hikers at the entrance to Ladder Canyon (bottom center), Mecca Hills. My route was a loop hike, which returned to this point.
Monument Mountain a week earlier was a warm up, but it was time for a serious climb. Martinez Mountain in the Santa Rosa’s fit the bill. The Cactus Springs trail heads East here towards the mountain, an 18 mile round trip with 4000 ft elevation gain, partly cross country. I would need all of the daylight hours for this hike.
Horsethief Creek, the only water on the Martinez Mountain hike, and not looking very enticing at that
I took this photo of Martinez Mountain (6562 ft) in the late afternoon on my return hike. My route up Martinez Mountain was by following the West Ridge from the col on the right here (behind the shrubbery). My descent was the more direct route, down the giant Northwest ravine, visible here in the center. It’s not as steep as it looks foreshortened here.
Finally! Martinez Mountain summit block from the summit plateau area. The long West Ridge had plenty of bouldering challenges and “predatory flora”.
Martinez Mountain summit block from the south east. A bit of class 3 scrambling around to the north (right) and I reached the top after more than 5 hours.
The Salton Sea from Martinez Mountain summit
The complexities of the Horsethief Canyon approach to Martinez Mountain are apparent in the middle ground from Martinez summit. Mt San Jacinto is on the right.
An easy Christmas morning hike in the Coachella Valley Preserve to the Horseshoe Palms. Four years ago I started this blog with another oasis hike in the Preserve. Unlike most oases, the Horseshoe Palms are in a line under a cliff, rather than in a canyon. This is from seepage along the San Andreas fault, which is exactly along this cliff line.
Pushwalla Palms Oasis, Coachella Valley Preserve. There was actually some running water here after a light rain the previous day.
A zoom view of the Coachella Valley Preserve’s Thousand Palms Oasis and Mt San Gorgonio (background left). San Gorgonio is the high point of San Bernadino County and indeed all of southern California. Can you spot my Crosstrek?
The Orocopia Wilderness was established in 1994 after OHV (off highway vehicle) users had inflicted some major damage to this area south of Joshua Tree NP. Orocopia Mountain was my final summit objective for 2020. This is a zoom view of the mountain from near the start. Supposedly a 2wd dirt road, I was glad I had my Crosstrek to get through some deep sand to the trailhead.
The actual summit finally comes into view after I mistakenly ascended the wrong ridge and had to traverse around some rough terrain, some of which is visible here. This and the prior photo are rather poor as the summit is due south.
Orocopia Mtn (3815 ft) summit view North to the Eagle Mountains, Joshua Tree NP
The Vagabond Hiker on the summit of Orocopia. Mt San Jacinto is on the far left, with Mt San Gorgonio (11,503 ft) just peeking out to the left of the summit cairn.
New Year’s eve sunset from my deck in Indio. A beautiful end to a challenging year.
Martinez Mountain view from 49th Ave, Indio. January and we’re finally getting some more significant winter rain in the desert.
Lost Palms wash, near the start of my Munsen Canyon hike from the southern border of Joshua Tree
At the start of Munsen Canyon I encountered this unexpected solo Juniper at about 2200 ft elevation, loaded with berries.
A Bladderpod (Peritoma arborea) blooming in Munsen Canyon
Summit Springs Oasis, Munsen Canyon. It took some substantial bouldering to reach this second of two oases in the canon. There were also a number of Desert Willow (Chilopsis linearis) saplings in this oasis. The Desert Willow is not a member of the Willow Family as are true willows, but is the only species of the Bignonia Family native to California.
Desert Tobacco (Nicotiana obtusifolia) flowering in the Lost Palms Wash, Joshua Tree

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