The Vagabond Hiker

Hiking, trekking, and climbing the world

Italy: Via Ferratas of the Gruppo del Catinaccio

Late in August I joined some friends of mine for a guided hut-to-hut via ferrata trek in the Gruppo del Catinaccio of the Dolomites. Also known as the Rosengarten Group, it is located about an hour drive east of Bolzano, the capital and by far the largest city in the province of South Tyrol. The entire trip was 10 days, but I climbed only on the first 6 as I had done some of the later ferratas only last year (see my blog from 15 September 2018). (For those who aren’t familiar with via ferratas, they are cables attached to the mountain that you clip into with caribiners using a special ferrata lanyard attached to your harness).

While many of these photos are similar to the ones I shared last year, the stupendous scenery of the Dolomites never tires (at least for me!) and of course there are several photos of my Utah friends included here. Enjoy!

Our day 1 approach to Roda di Vael. A short and easy route in dry conditions.
Common Monkshood. We saw a lot of Monkshood, one of my favorites.
Other climbers on the Roda di Vael crux, an ascending traverse. It was raining by the time we reached it, making it even more difficult.
On our day 2 approach to Vael Majare
Csilla climbing Vael Majare
Vista from Vael Majare. Some beautiful shades of green!
On our day 3 approach to Via Ferrata (VF) Santner
Me (with others behind) on an airy traverse, I believe on VF Santner. I usually climbed the rock rather than the cable if it was possible. Photo by our guide Tomas.
Looking back on our VF Santner descent route, the large crack in the middle of the photo
Our lodging for the night, Rifugio Re Alberto Premier. Most rifugios are in unbelievable locations.
Bob, Denise and Robert topping out on one pitch of the VF Antermoia on day 4
Bob, Don, Leslie, and Csilla on the summit of Antermoia. It seems nearly all peaks in Italy feature a cross.
Bob, Robert, and Denise on the descent of Antermoia, with Rolando behind the lens.
Antermoia vista. I stitched together 6 photos for this panorama.
A lake near Rifugio Antermoia on the fourth night. Unfortunately, too cold for a dip.
Morning light with Rifugio Antermoia, day 5
Csilla (seated) and Rolando on VF Laurenzi, day 5. Laurenzi was the most technically difficult of the 6 via ferratas I climbed.
View towards Sasso Piatto from VF Laurenzi. The rest of the group was heading in this direction after I left.
Potentilla nitida (Dolomite cinquefoil), seen on VF Laurenzi
Bob on a VF Laurenzi traverse with Tomas, our lead guide, behind
Rifugio Alpe de Tires, a welcome sight after our longest and toughest day. VF Maximiliansteig, our day 6 objective, is behind it.
View along our traverse of VF Maximilianstieg on day 6. Not technically difficult nor long, it was quite airy nonetheless.
Saxifrage (Saxifraga caesia) on VF Maximilianstieg day 6
Leslie on VF Maximilianstieg
Csilla and I on the Maximilianstieg. The Rifugio Alpe de Tires is in the right background. Photo by Rolando.
A “Monkshood” meadow seen on the descent of VF Maximilianstieg
Likely Black Vanilla Orchid, seen as I was heading back to the valley and on then to Bolzano on day 6 after the Maximilianstieg

Thanks to Bob for organizing this fantastic trip and to all who joined in climbing in this special area of Italy!

Speaking of which, I’m still in Italy, above Riva del Garda with views to the town, mountains, and Lago Garda. My next blog will be in 2-3 weeks, featuring lower elevation hikes, scrambles, and via ferratas nearby here.

The Vagabond Hiker

Val d’Aosta redux

Last month I returned to the Val d’Aosta for 10 days hiking in the amazing Italian Alps. I managed to secure an AirBnb apartment above St. Nicolas at 1550m elevation (the valley is only about 900m here) with a great view looking south to Gran Paradiso National Park. Although I never made it across the valley and into the park (see my blog post from last August that included GPNP), I was well placed to do several interesting hikes either directly from my front door or necessitating only a short drive to the trailhead.

Morning view from the shared balcony of my apartment. The Grivola summit was almost always shrouded in clouds.
A piazza in Vens, a hamlet located about 20 minutes walking uphill from my apartment. Note the traditional shale roofs on the houses.
Cappella della Madonna delle Neve, near Lago di Joux above Vens.
View on the descent to Vens with Gran Paradiso NP behind
Less than 30 minutes walking from my place, this canalized stream near the hamlet of Vedun reminded me of the Levadas of Madeira.
Fireweed with Monte Bianco, taken from near Vedun (and . There were some nice “balcony” trails right out of my apartment. This morning view (very similar to a photo from last year) was taken before Monte Bianco became completely cloud-covered
This is a view on the trail north of Punta Oilletta looking towards Punta Leysser. I did a longish loop hike/scramble up from Lago di Joux.
Punta Leysser from the ridge-line trail
A Cobweb House-leek. It was late in the season for many flowers. Although I managed photos of several species, nearly all (including this one) I had photographed last year and included in my blog. Oh, well!
My final big hike above the Val d’Aosta was to the summit of Monte Fallere. Here the view is near the start of the hike in Vetan, looking back towards the trailhead.
“Ibex” seen near Rifugio Monte Fallere. Someone there is quite a sculptor as there were several dozen wood sculptures of animals and people along the path up to the rifugio, about 1/2 the way to the summit.
The Monte Fallere ridge traverse. Only about 15 minutes, but airy enough to have some chains installed!
Monte Fallere domesticated Ibex. With bells on their necks, from a distance I thought they were cows. The alpha male took exception to my presence close to his herd, and I discreetly retreated after a couple of photos.
A misty morning view from my apartment towards Gran Paradiso NP. I never get tired of mountain views!

As my sojourn in Italy continues, stay tuned for some photos from the Dolomites and Lago Garda. . .

The Vagabond Hiker

Trekking Morocco’s High Atlas

Last week I returned to England after a two week trekking journey through the High Atlas Mountains of Morocco. In addition to the summit of North Africa’s highest peak, Mount Toubkal (4167m, 13670 ft), the KE Adventures itinerary included the summits of Ouanoukrim (4089m), Adrar n’Dern (4001m) and Bouiguinoussem (4025m). Apart from the demanding summit climbs and wonderful trekking through breath-taking landscapes and over high passes, our group of 13 got to experience some of the culture of the remote Berber villages nestled in picturesque valleys of the Central Atlas range.

Here’s a map of Morocco. Toubkal and the Central High Atlas are to the east and south of Marrakech, our starting and finishing point on this adventure. When I trekked in Morocco in the winter of 2014, it was further south in the Anti Atlas, bordering the Sahara.
Above the village of Oukaimeden on Day 1. The haze (particulates from the Sahara?) was persistent throughout the trek, with the exception of a couple of days following strong winds.
A remote Berber village house in the morning light on Day 3.
Jeep track descending to the valley of Setti Fatma, Day 3
The valley of Setti Fatma. Our camp was set up in the nearest village seen here.
River Cafe, village of Setti Fatma. Many locals visit this mountain village at the road end to escape summer heat and enjoy the rivers and waterfall.
The Vagabond Hiker enjoying a Power Shower in the Setti Fatma waterfall. Photo courtesy of our guide, Rachid.
A pleasant riparian path at the start of Day 4. Our longer days started at dawn or even earlier to avoid the afternoon heat and potential of thunderstorms.
A gnarled Spanish Juniper seen on Day 4. Some of these amazing trees are more than 400 years old.
A remote Berber hamlet perched on the side of a mountain which we passed Day 4. Talk about a hard life!
Our shady lunch spot on Day 4. On many days the cook crew would set up our lunch of salad, a grain (pasta, couscous, rice), tinned fish, and fruit. A pleasant two hours spent spent eating, reading, soaking our feet in a stream, and napping would pass quickly enough.
A typical salad our hard-working crew prepared for us at lunch. Although this photo was taken when I visited in 2014, the lunches on this trek were very similar.
Goats seen while we were heading up the Tizi n’Boukchoud pass (2976m) on Day 5. As fun as they are to watch, they do devastate the landscape.
A young goatherd and one of her charges on the Jbel Amlal.
Our group in the early morning to the summit of Adrar n’Dern on Day 6. The moon was full a couple of nights previously.
Our group climbing to summit of Adrar n’Dern. Lots of boulders but no real scrambling on the first of our 4000m peaks.
The Vagabond Hiker on the summit of Adrar n’Dern (4001m). The high point in the distance on the right is Mount Toubkal. Our ascent route a week later on Toubkal would be from the other side.
Some of our group on the scree descent of Adrar n’Dern. The boot skiing here was fantastic!
View across the Tizi n’Ourai to the Berber village of Amsouzart on Day 7
A rare trailside flower not covered in thorns that escaped the goats, near the Tizi n’Ourai
Green valley near the Berber village of Amsouzart, where we spent a night in a basic gite and enjoyed hot showers.
Day 8 morning view looking back on the green valley near the Berber village of Amsouzart that we first saw on our descent the previous day.
Lake Ifni, our lunch and swim spot. It is the largest lake in the Central Atlas and our three hour break enabled some of us to enjoy a swim and sun bathing.
Our camp at a stream confluence in a gorge above Lake Ifni. Our orange tents are in the bottom center of this photo.
Looking back on the gorge we ascended to start our climb of Ouanoukrim on Day 9
Mount Toubkal from the summit of Ouanoukrim (4089m)
Neltner (Mt Toubkal) refuge and our camp (orange tents to the right of the refuge compound). Located at 3200m, it was our highest camp. Hot showers in the refuge were greatly appreciated after a long day.

The following day, Day 10, was our ascent of Mt Toubkal. While it is the highest mountain in northern Africa, Toubkal was also the easiest (and by far the most crowded) ascent of the trip. To avoid the long scree ascent and the crowds, The Vagabond Hiker had his gout flare up, ensuring a restful day in camp. All the other clients successfully summitted. For several, it was their personal high point.

On Day 11 we attempted our most technically challenging peak, Bouguinoussen. Here two guides and some of our group are ascending above the Tizi Tadate (Pass of the Finger). The scrambling actually wasn’t all that hard, but fun nonetheless.
The Vagabond Hiker on the summit of Bouguinoussen (4025m) with Elizabeth and Ruth. Only five clients made this summit.
View from the summit of Bouguinoussen. The haze had returned after a couple of days respite.
Part of our 1600m (one mile vertical) descent route to our final camp after summitting Bouguinoussen. Amazingly my knees held up alright.
A waterfall on our descent from Bouguinoussen. No Power Shower here, but a kiosk with an enterprising young man selling cold drinks was welcome.
Sunset view from final camp with tents. Our muleteers set up and took down all the clients’ tents at every camp and the cook and mess tents at most camps.
Morning valley view with fields on the final day (Day 12 of the trek). The terraced farms are irrigated from the mountain streams. The farmers grow barley and wheat, typically with a second crop of corn or potatoes each year.
Spanish Junipers on the final morning of trek.
A few of our eight mules passing us on the final morning of trekking. The muleteers always arrived at camp and set it up before we got there. While they didn’t always follow the high trails and of course did no summits, their strength and stamina were amazing. (That goes for the mules, too).
Some geological folding seen on final morning entering Imlil village. For those geologists among you, I can recommend the open online book chapter entitled “Structural Geological Analysis of the High Atlas (Morocco): Evidences of a Transpressional Fold-Thrust Belt“
Imlil Valley vista. The village of Imlil is the starting point for more than 90% of the visitors that climb Toubkal. For us it was the end point of our 12 days trekking. We stayed the final night in a gite with hot showers and comfortable beds. It was with decidedly mixed feelings that we arrived back in civilization.
Having a morning free in Marrakech at the conclusion of the trek, several of us visited the Majorelle Gardens, an oasis of tranquillity and shade amidst the frenetic heat of the city. I took this photo and the lunch photo when I visited in 2014. There is also another out of place trekking photo from 2014. Did you spot it?

One week from today I fly to Verona, Italy to enjoy the next 6 1/2 weeks in the Italian Alps, Dolomites, and on Lago Garda. I’m looking forward to seeing some of you there! Until then, “Keep Hiking, Keep Living”

The Vagabond Hiker

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