The Vagabond Hiker

Hiking, trekking, and climbing the world

Trekking and climbing in the Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru

How does one even begin to describe the wonderful two weeks we spent in the Cordillera Huayhuash?  My friend Bob organized a group of hiking and canyoneering friends from St George Utah for this trek with the company Peruvian Andes Adventures. Our group of nine clients was very ably supported by a head mountaineering guide, a fantastic cook, and two assistant cooks who also helped as porters.  Most of the group equipment and personal kit was carried on 23 donkeys, managed by four muleteers.

The trek was a roughly clockwise circuit of the Cordillara Huayhuash, several hours drive from the mountain town of Huaraz (itself a 7 hour bus journey from Lima).  After two days of acclimatization hikes near Huaraz, we headed up into the Huayhuash. In addition to 10 actual trek days, we had three rest days where we spent two consecutive nights at the same camp. Most of us went on short out and back hikes on our three rest days. Four of us also traversed Diablo Mudo on day 13, a relatively straightforward rock and snow climb with inclines of up to about 45 degrees.

The following photos try to convey some of the sublime grandeur and beauty of the Peruvian Andes. I tried to be very selective in choosing only the most interesting photos, but as you’ll soon realize, that was not an easy thing to do. They are in strict chronological order.

Mountain view from my hotel room in Huaraz. The usual starting point for trekking in the Cordillera Blanca and Huayhuash, it is easily the largest city in this part of Peru, with more than 100,000 inhabitants.
Lago and Nevada Churup, our second acclimatization hike in the Cordillera Blanca near Huaraz
Our lunch spot on day 1, en-route to Llamac, our trailhead where we would start trekking the following day.
Cantua buxifolia, a sacred flower to the Incas and the national flower of Peru
View in the mist, day 2, Llamac Valley
Day 3 vista from near Cacanan Punta, our first high pass
Misty view on the afternoon of day 3
Lupines in the mist, day 3
Two of our group, Marie and Jimmy, above a lake on day 3

 

Likely Gentianella hirculus
Day 3 view of Laguna Mitucocha from our camp
Day 3 view of Nevada Ninashanca from camp
A panorama I stitched together above Laguna Carhuacocha on day 4 with Yerupaja (c) and Siula Grande (l) of Touching the Void fame providing the backdrop
Morning light at our camp at Laguno Carhuacocha on day 5, the first “rest” day. Yerupaja is on the left here.
Three lakes view under Siula Grande and Yerupaja, giants of the Huayhuash, day 6. At 6,617 meters, Yerupaja is the 2nd highest mountain in Peru.
The Vagabond Hiker at Siula Punta (4830m)
Our campsite at Huayhuash
Some of our 23 donkeys on day 7. The pyramidal mountain is Nevada Cuyoc
In the thermal baths. After a week on trek they were much appreciated!
Gentiana sedifolia, day 8
Nevada Cuyoc
A mushroom rock formation, reminiscent of Utah
Hypochearis sessiliflora
View with yellow-flowered shrub and cactus
Local girls at Huanacpatay camp
Our Huanacpatay campsite
Our group at Santa Rosa pass (5030 m), day 9. This was our highest pass of the trek.
An Andean condor near Santa Rosa pass. Admittedly not a good picture of this magnificent and iconic bird. . .
Siula Grande and its namesake glacier, day 10. We were near the climbers’ base camp on the West side of the mountain (previous photos were from the East side) on this 2nd “rest” day.
Waterfall near Cutatambo camp
Red flowers, possibly Bomarea, near the waterfall
A Lupinus mutabilis (aka Andean lupine) forest, on the morning of day 11
Salvia striata
Orecocereus cactus flower
A rushing stream on day 11 as we headed down towards Huayllapa village.
Huayllapa village. Apart from Llamac at the start and finish, this was the low point and the only village we saw on the trek, at only 3,600 meters (10,800 ft)!
Calceolaria Integrifolio (aka baby booties)
Oxalis adenophylla (aka silver shamrock) detail, day 12
A thorny Chuquiragua shrub (“flower of the Andes”) and mountain backdrop
Climbing a high ridge on Diablo Mudo, day 13. We started at 3 AM and this photo was taken about 6:30 AM when we were still almost 2 1/2 hours from the summit.
Dawn view high on Diablo Mudo
Our rope team (minus our guide) on the summit of Diablo Mudo, 5350 meters (17,650 ft). Four of us made this optional climb, which was a 10 1/2 hour day.
Celebrating on the summit of Diablo Mudo with our guide Marco
A cushion plant (Asteraceae) seen on the descent from Diablo Mudo
Tephrocactus floccosus cactus in flower, day 14
A Polylepis tree with semi-parasitic pupa shrub flowers
A gnarled polylepis tree
Ferns in a cave by Laguna Jahuacocha on rest day 14
Laguna Jahuacocha view
The lower portion of a waterfall near our final camp
Our final camp, days 14 and 15
Sunset from my tent on day 14. On the following day we hiked back to Llamac, a relatively easy 8 miles.

Tonight I fly back to London from Lima, Peru for a few days of R&R before my trip to Italy next week where I’ll be hiking and (possibly) climbing in the Mont Blanc (or, as the Italians say, Monte Bianco) region.  Until my next blog post, happy trails!

The Vagabond Hiker

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hiking Romania’s Carpathian Mountains

Having less than one week to hike Romania’s Carpathian Mountains is quite a challenge.  The endless choices make selecting a few hikes seem an impossible task.  We surmounted that obstacle by choosing only local hikes within a few minutes walk or drive of our AirBnB cottage above the town of Bran.  Two major mountain ranges border the town: Piatra Criaului to the West and Becegi to the East.  The photos that I chose below were taken on during the day hikes we made this past week, with one of Bran Castle thrown in for good measure.  The spring wildflowers were in full bloom. Enjoy!

View towards the village of Simon from the ridge behind our cottage above Bran
Viola from high on the ridge behind our Bran Cottage, converted from a shepherd’s hut
Zarnesti Gorge, Piatra Craiului Park
Maggie in Zarnesti gorge. Numerous placards explained the geology and botany as well as detailing some climbing routes on the limestone cliffs.
A Yellow Wagtail in Zarnesti Gorge. It was tough to get this little guy in focus.
Bark beetle trails in pine, Zarnesti Gorge
Bran Castle, a 15 minute walk from our cottage. Perhaps the inspiration for Dracula’s castle in Bram Stoker’s novel.
Simon creek, south of Bran. A pleasant walk to the start of the climb into the Bucegi Mountains.
Alpine Meadow wildflowers, including butter cups and forget me nots, Bucegi Mountains
We emerged from a long climb through the woods into this lovely meadow in the Bucegi Mountains above Simon Valley.
Giant Chickweed, Bucegi Mountains
Spring gentian (?), Bucegi Mountains
Another Bucegi Mountains vista
Cascada Maura Dracului, Bucegi Mountains
European Columbine (Aquilegia vulgaris) at Cascada Maura Dracului
Another view of one of the cliffs in the Bucegi Mountains, near Cascada Maura Dracului

We are now enjoying some relaxing days in the Danube Delta, the largest wetlands in Europe, bird watching and enjoying the laid back ambience of Sulina, Romania. Next week it will be on to Peru, for an extended trek in the Cordillera Huayhuash.

Happy trails,

The Vagabond Hiker

 

 

 

 

Cornwall Circular Walks

The South coast of Cornwall has a reputation of being less rugged than the north coast, and certainly compared to the section from Westward Ho! to Padstow (see my last post), this was true.  The walks, though, were no less interesting for their more gentle character.  From my cottage near Truro in Cornwall these past two weeks I’ve done several loop walks of lengths varying from five to twelve miles or so. Other than a short walk on Bodmin Moor, all my hikes involved sections of the South West Coast Path followed by an inland return to the start point. The inland portions of the walks were generally pleasant in themselves, by streams, through woods, across meadows, and along quiet country lanes.  The Ordnance Survey (OS) Pathfinder Guide “Cornwall: Outstanding Circular Walks” was invaluable in route-finding for several of the walks.  (At 1:25,000 scale, OS maps cover the entire country with detail similar to USGS Quads). It still amazes me that Public Footpaths and Bridleways crisscross the patchwork of private lands, giving right of way to walkers throughout rural Britain.

As walking options abound within a half hour or shorter drive, I never did get further afield to more well-known spots such as Land’s End or Lizard Point.  In any event, the nearby coast of Roseland Peninsula is indistinguishable from these more famous landmarks, apart from having far fewer tourists. I chose the photos below to capture some of the variety of Cornwall’s landscapes. Enjoy!

Detail of an Early Marsh Orchid, taken near Hartland Quay on Cornwall’s north coast. I should have included this with my last post, but only now got around to identifying it…
The Hurlers, late neolithic or early bronze age stone circles, Bodmin Moor. Bodmin Moor includes Brown Willy, the highest point in Cornwall.
Granite boulders and tree, Bodmin Moor. I loved this wind-blown tree. It reminds me of Tierra del Fuego or Slope Point, the southernmost point on New Zealand’s South Island.
The Vagabond Hiker and the Cheesewring, Bodmin Moor. One of the most amazing rock formations I’ve ever encountered.  Erosion has exposed these stacked granite slabs over the millennia. I got this shot on the first attempt with my timer!
Houseman’s engine house, Bodmin Moor. After farming, mines were the largest employers in this area during the 19th century when this structure was built.
Carne Beach, a few miles south of my Airbnb cottage in Tregony. Red Campion was ubiquitous this past month in both Cornwall and North Devon.
The 19th century John Nash-designed Caerhays Castle and grounds, near Carne Beach
Picturesque Portloe from the South West Coast Path, Roseland Peninsula
Low tide view from near St Mawes looking across the Carrick Roads to Falmouth, the third deepest natural harbor in the world.
Gorgeous wild Gladiolus along the coast path near Boswinger on the Roseland Peninsula
Vault Beach at low tide, looking to Dodman Point, the highest headland on the south Cornwall coast, at 374 ft.
Foxgloves and gorse at Dodman Point.
Chapel Point and (private) beach.  This is one of the most amazing private estates in Cornwall, with 270 degree water views.
A profusion of wildflowers and a classic sailing boat along the coast path near Chapel Point
View from the hamlet of St Anthony across the Percuil River to St Mawes
The wonderfully overgrown St Anthony’s graveyard and church
St Anthony light and sailing boat in the haze (zoom). Definitely not good conditions for photography, but this vista captures what I always thought Cornwall looked like.
View from St Catherine’s Point to Fowey (left)
Flowers making their home in the ruins of St Catherine’s Castle, built by Henry VIII in 1540
The Saints’ Way at its southern end near Fowey, with some Rhododendrons still in bloom. To avoid Lands End, religious pilgrims from Ireland would walk across mid Cornwall from Padstow south to Fowey, before re-embarking.
An impressive beech along the Saints’ Way in the Covington Woods, Fowey

On Monday Maggie and I are off to Bucharest. We will spend two weeks there, divided between the Carpathian Mountains in Transylvania and the Danube Delta, with one day in the capital city of Romania.  Until next post, keep hiking and enjoying nature!

The Vagabond Hiker

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