The Vagabond Hiker

Hiking, trekking, and climbing the world

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The Okanagan Valley, BC, Canada

June 19, 2017

Returning from a delightful – though too short – break in the UK (including a wonderful weekend in Paris), I was quickly reminded of the wet weather that has plagued western Canada this spring.  The 6½ hour drive from Vancouver Airport included periods of rain of biblical intensity.  Within minutes of settling into my cottage in Penticton, lightning struck nearby (no counting seconds between lightning and thunder – both seemed simultaneous!), knocking out the internet service.

In case you are not familiar with the Okanagan Valley, it is in south-central British Columbia and is considered the center of the province’s fruit orchards and, more recently, viniculture.  The Okanagan has a dry, sunny climate, and several lake-shore communities, including my favorite, Penticton.  With about 30,000 residents, Penticton supposedly is one of only two cities located between two lakes.  (I have no idea what the other one is and tend to doubt this claim in any event).  Apart from agriculture, the economy is retirement and recreation based, with outdoor summer activities such as fishing, kite boarding and wind surfing, hiking, biking, etc.

One obvious benefit to the cool, damp weather this spring, in what passes for the closest thing Canada has to a desert, is the profusion of wildflowers in bloom.  The landscape does have its attractions of course, from the blue lakes to the dramatic hills, to the snow-covered mountains in the distance, to the vineyards and orchards that dominate the valley.  But without a doubt the flowers this spring have stolen the show and feature in many of the photos in this blog post.  [Unlike some past slideshows from California and Utah, I have not attempted to identify the species of each flower, being content merely to give their common (generic) name].

Penticton and the South end of Lake Okanagan with much evidence of a recent fire
View looking south from Skaha Lake Park where I swam in the 14 deg. C water
Skaha Lake and the southern portion of Penticton from Skaha Bluffs Provincial Park.  The park is well known for its many fine climbing routes.
Lupines at Skaha Bluffs Park
Larkspur and granite at Okanagan Mountain Provincial Park
Shooting stars at Okanagan Mountain Park
A field of Lupine at Okanagan Mountain Park
A bouquet of Penstemon at Okanagan Mountain Park
Panorama from near Okanagan Mountain summit. Lake Okanagan is in the mid ground with Skaha Lake visible in the distance. Devastation from the 2003 fire was everywhere.
A turbulent, swollen creek at Okanagan Mountain Park
A mother grouse annoyed at me for disturbing her nestlings at the trailhead for Okanagan Mountain Park
Mt McLellan Corn(flower) field
Cornflower detail, Mt McLellan
Rock Rose (aka Bitterroot), Mt McLellan
Penticton Adventurers on the Mt McLellan hike
Scarlet Gilia on Mt Parker
View west from Mt Parker summit (1420m) to Sheeprock (l) and Mount Brent (r)
The Vagabond Hiker sweating on Mt Parker summit. Skaha Lake, 1000 meters lower, is just visible in the background.
Apex Mountain from near the summit of Mt Beaconsfield (2178m). Misleadingly, Apex Mountain Ski Resort is on Beaconsfield Mountain.
A zoom shot south to Cathedral Provincial Park from Mt Beaconsfield summit
The Vagabond Hiker chillin’ on Mt Beaconsfield summit (2178m)

My next post will likely be from the Canadian Rockies, where I have a condo for the month of July just outside of Canmore, Alberta.  The mountains will be a tad more impressive.

Happy trails,

The Vagabond Hiker

Canada, North America Kent

Thoughts on Ueli Steck and my upcoming climb of Pik Lenin

May 6, 2017

As I plan and train for my next alpine climb, I reflect on the recent sad passing of one of the mountaineering greats of this – or any – generation, Ueli Steck.  Known as the “Swiss Machine,” Ueli became famous to the public with his record-setting solo climbs of the Eiger Nordwand.  When he fell to his death on April 30th, Ueli was acclimatizing to climb Everest by the West Ridge, followed by traversing to summit Lhotse, something that has never been accomplished.  All solo and without oxygen, of course.  Ueli’s passion, dedication, fantastic physical condition, and technical excellence on different terrain put him head and shoulders above most other mountaineers.  But beyond his mountaineering accomplishments (recently he summited all 82 4,000 m Alpine peaks in one season, for example), he embodied the humility of how one should approach the mountains.

Although me going on a guided climb up Pik Lenin in the Pamir Mountains of Kyrgyzstan cannot be compared to any of Ueli’s elite mountaineering accomplishments, he recently said:

“There are many peaks in this world and everyone can find their own mountain – depending on what they are looking for. Eventually everyone will find their own Everest.”

Pik Lenin will be a first for me in more ways than one.  In the Pamir Mountains between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, Pik Lenin is one of five 7,000 meter mountains in the former Soviet Union, the summitting of all of which completes the Snow Leopard Challenge.  Although not technical, it is a long, physically challenging alpine climb, with three or four camps established above base camp.  At 7,134 meters, it will be far higher than any mountains I have climbed in the Andes.  To successfully acclimatize will require more than two weeks on the mountain, a true expedition peak.  Bad weather at some point is inevitable.  So much so, in fact, that few have summitted the past two years.

That said, I am going with the British company Adventure Peaks (https://www.adventurepeaks.com), who in the past have had good team success reaching the summit, partly because of an option for an extra camp (at 6,400 meters) to help shorten the very long summit day.  This year they have added two more contingency days for weather, giving the team many as six days to reach the top.  I’ll be leaving for Osh on August 11, returning from Kyrgyzstan on or before September 5th.  I have updated my Calendar in this blog to reflect this trip.  (I also changed the width of the content, removing the side bar, to better allow viewing the photos).

Until then, my blog posts will diminish both in length and frequency as my focus will be on training.  While there are many reasons that I might not be able to reach the summit, I certainly don’t want lack of conditioning to be among them.  In the mean time, here’s a photo of me last September on the lower summit of Huayna Potosi (6,087m)  in Bolivia:

“Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow” – Ueli Steck, 1976-2017

Happy trails, wherever they may take you,

The Vagabond Hiker

Asia, Nepal, The 'Stans Kent

All About Alice

May 4, 2017

To say that the more than 500,000 square miles of the Northern Territory of Australia is sparsely settled is a bit of an understatement.  Evenly distributed, each inhabitant would have more than 2 square miles to roam without encountering another human.  Alice Springs, the third largest town in the Northern Territory, is the definition of remote.  With about 27,000 inhabitants, Alice is situated roughly in Australia’s geographic center. It is the largest settlement between Darwin to the north and Adelaide to the south, each approximately equidistant at about 1,500 km (930 miles) away.

As part of the Red Centre (see my previous blog On the Road to Alice), this country is rich with mountain ranges, waterholes and gorges, which create a variety of natural habitats.  The following photos summarize a series of day hikes I took from Alice, where my brother and I stayed for a week.  All hikes except Trephina Gorge were in the West McDonnell Ranges to the West of Alice, easily the most scenic landscape in the Red Centre.

A Sturt Desert Rose at Ormsiton Gorge along section 8 of the Larapinta Track.  At 223 km, the Larapinta is one of the most famous long distance tracks in Australia. On that day we were only on it a short distance before diverging onto the Ormiston Pound Walk loop.
Ormiston Gorge Water Hole. After the recent rains, we needed to wade across the stream in crotch-high water to complete the Pound Loop walk.
Panorama Trail view at Trephina Gorge Nature Park, the East McDonnell Ranges, in the early morning. Hot days necessitated early starts.
A remarkable Ghost Gum at Trephina Gorge Nature Park (composite photo)
Our 4wd Mitsubishi Pajero at Palm Valley trail-head, Finke Gorge National Park. A “serious” 4 wheel drive road of about 20 km had to be navigated to reach the trail-heads for our two hikes that day.
Clifford at Kalarranga Lookout, Finke Gorge
Morning vista from Kalarranga Lookout, Finke Gorge
A Ghost Gum along the Mpulunkinya Trail at Finke Gorge National Park
The Vagabond Hiker celebrating his birthday on a boulder amongst the Red Cabbage Palms at Finke Gorge National Park
Early morning shot of the West McDonnell Ranges from the road to Standley Chasm, starting point of section 4 of the Larapinta Track
The ridge to Brinkley Bluff summit on section 4 of the Larapinta Track
The view South from Brinkley Bluff summit. 360 degree views were on offer from this local high point on the Larapinta Track.  It is a popular dry camping site halfway through this section of the track, though I encountered only one other group that day.
The Vagabond Hiker on the Brinkley Bluff ridge-line high above the surrounding land

Despite the title of this blog, it would be remiss of me not to at least mention in passing our 2,700 km road trip odyssey from Alice back to Sydney for our departure flights from Australia.  Most of those three days were naturally consumed by driving and sleeping (fortunately, not at the same time!) but we did manage two early morning walks.  Below is one photo taken from each.  Quite a contrast to the Red Centre.

Pastoral view from the southern flanks of Mt Remarkable, Melrose, South Australia
Morning reflections on the Murrumbidgee, Hay, New South Wales (photo courtesy of Clifford).  A major tributary of the Murray, the Murrumbidgee is the 2nd longest river in Australia.

Australasia, Australia Kent

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