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Italy: Via Ferrate of the Gruppo del Catinaccio

September 13, 2019

Late in August I joined some friends of mine for a guided hut-to-hut via ferrata trek in the Gruppo del Catinaccio of the Dolomites. Also known as the Rosengarten Group, it is located about an hour drive east of Bolzano, the capital and by far the largest city in the province of South Tyrol. The entire trip was 10 days, but I climbed only on the first 6 as I had done some of the later ferrate only last year (see my blog from 15 September 2018). (For those who aren’t familiar with via ferrate, they are cables attached to the mountain that you clip into with caribiners using a special ferrata lanyard attached to your harness).

While many of these photos are similar to the ones I shared last year, the stupendous scenery of the Dolomites never tires (at least for me!) and of course there are several photos of my Utah friends included here. Enjoy!

Our day 1 approach to Roda di Vael. A short and easy route in dry conditions.
Common Monkshood. We saw a lot of Monkshood, one of my favorites.
Other climbers on the Roda di Vael crux, an ascending traverse. It was raining by the time we reached it, making it even more difficult.
On our day 2 approach to Vael Majare
Csilla climbing Vael Majare
Vista from Vael Majare. Some beautiful shades of green!
On our day 3 approach to Via Ferrata (VF) Santner
Me (with others behind) on an airy traverse, I believe on VF Santner. I usually climbed the rock rather than the cable if it was possible. Photo by our guide Tomas.
Looking back on our VF Santner descent route, the large crack in the middle of the photo
Our lodging for the night, Rifugio Re Alberto Premier. Most rifugios are in unbelievable locations.
Bob, Denise and Robert topping out on one pitch of the VF Antermoia on day 4
Bob, Don, Leslie, and Csilla on the summit of Antermoia. It seems nearly all peaks in Italy feature a cross.
Bob, Robert, and Denise on the descent of Antermoia, with Rolando behind the lens.
Antermoia vista. I stitched together 6 photos for this panorama.
A lake near Rifugio Antermoia on the fourth night. Unfortunately, too cold for a dip.
Morning light with Rifugio Antermoia, day 5
Csilla (seated) and Rolando on VF Laurenzi, day 5. Laurenzi was the most technically difficult of the 6 via ferrate I climbed.
View towards Sasso Piatto from VF Laurenzi. The rest of the group was heading in this direction after I left.
Potentilla nitida (Dolomite cinquefoil), seen on VF Laurenzi
Bob on a VF Laurenzi traverse with Tomas, our lead guide, behind
Rifugio Alpe de Tires, a welcome sight after our longest and toughest day. VF Maximiliansteig, our day 6 objective, is behind it.
View along our traverse of VF Maximilianstieg on day 6. Not technically difficult nor long, it was quite airy nonetheless.
Saxifrage (Saxifraga caesia) on VF Maximilianstieg day 6
Leslie on VF Maximilianstieg
Csilla and I on the Maximilianstieg. The Rifugio Alpe de Tires is in the right background. Photo by Rolando.
A “Monkshood” meadow seen on the descent of VF Maximilianstieg
Likely Black Vanilla Orchid, seen as I was heading back to the valley and on then to Bolzano on day 6 after the Maximilianstieg

Thanks to Bob for organizing this fantastic trip and to all who joined in climbing in this special area of Italy!

Speaking of which, I’m still in Italy, above Riva del Garda with views to the town, mountains, and Lago Garda. My next blog will be in 2-3 weeks, featuring lower elevation hikes, scrambles, and via ferrate nearby here.

The Vagabond Hiker

Europe, Italy Kent

Val d’Aosta redux

September 8, 2019

Last month I returned to the Val d’Aosta for 10 days hiking in the amazing Italian Alps. I managed to secure an AirBnb apartment above St. Nicolas at 1550m elevation (the valley is only about 900m here) with a great view looking south to Gran Paradiso National Park. Although I never made it across the valley and into the park (see my blog post from last August that included GPNP), I was well placed to do several interesting hikes either directly from my front door or necessitating only a short drive to the trailhead.

Morning view from the shared balcony of my apartment. The Grivola summit was almost always shrouded in clouds.
A piazza in Vens, a hamlet located about 20 minutes walking uphill from my apartment. Note the traditional shale roofs on the houses.
Cappella della Madonna delle Neve, near Lago di Joux above Vens.
View on the descent to Vens with Gran Paradiso NP behind
Less than 30 minutes walking from my place, this canalized stream near the hamlet of Vedun reminded me of the Levadas of Madeira.
Fireweed with Monte Bianco, taken from near Vedun (and . There were some nice “balcony” trails right out of my apartment. This morning view (very similar to a photo from last year) was taken before Monte Bianco became completely cloud-covered
This is a view on the trail north of Punta Oilletta looking towards Punta Leysser. I did a longish loop hike/scramble up from Lago di Joux.
Punta Leysser from the ridge-line trail
A Cobweb House-leek. It was late in the season for many flowers. Although I managed photos of several species, nearly all (including this one) I had photographed last year and included in my blog. Oh, well!
My final big hike above the Val d’Aosta was to the summit of Monte Fallere. Here the view is near the start of the hike in Vetan, looking back towards the trailhead.
“Ibex” seen near Rifugio Monte Fallere. Someone there is quite a sculptor as there were several dozen wood sculptures of animals and people along the path up to the rifugio, about 1/2 the way to the summit.
The Monte Fallere ridge traverse. Only about 15 minutes, but airy enough to have some chains installed!
Monte Fallere domesticated Ibex. With bells on their necks, from a distance I thought they were cows. The alpha male took exception to my presence close to his herd, and I discreetly retreated after a couple of photos.
A misty morning view from my apartment towards Gran Paradiso NP. I never get tired of mountain views!

As my sojourn in Italy continues, stay tuned for some photos from the Dolomites and Lago Garda. . .

The Vagabond Hiker

Europe, Italy Kent

Walks and Via Ferrate among the High Peaks of the Dolomites

September 15, 2018

Early morning a few hours before my flight to Dubrovnik Croatia, and I hastily dash off another blog post.  During the past three weeks I have done some easier hiking in the meadows and woods of the Dolomites as well as some adrenaline-pumping climbs on expert level via ferratas (VF), again with OnTop Mountaineering out of Canmore, Alberta.  First the easier hikes and walks…

Cencenighe Agordino. A late August morning view from my apartment after snowfall the night before.
View of Lago Alleghe. The giro di Alleghe was a pleasant one hour stroll around the lake.
View of part of the Civetta Massif from the Pian de Pelsa, following a 900m ascent on a gondola from the town of Alleghe.
Rigugio Coldai on Civetta. This hike was along the northwest flank of this mighty mountain.
Detail of Common Monkshood seen above Rifugio Coldai
Lago Coldai on Civetta’s Northwest flank
A Rhaetian poppy on Civetta
Willow-leaved Gentian seen on the descent through the woods from Civetta’s northwest flank
Lago Alleghe from the descent to Masare from Civetta’s northwest flank. The town of Alleghe is partially seen on the right side of the lake.
Meadow Saffron (aka Autumn Crocus) above Cencenighe. There were fields of these flowers in bloom.
Civetta in clouds from its eastern side during my circuit of Monte Pelmo hike. This day was the only one I was caught out in the rain.
Edelweiss near Passo Valles
A late season Gentian near Passo Valles
Cencenighe Agordino, behind my apartment. This road becomes the path that traverses high above the Cordevole Valley up to Lago Alleghe
Interesting mushroom on the path above the Cordevole valley
A typical view along the high level path above the Cordevole valley. It was wonderful finding such a lovely walk right out my back door.

And now the ferratas. All the photos with me in them were taken by another client, Ron, who was our unofficial photographer. My thanks to him for sharing these with me so quickly.

Climbing at the start of the Via Ferrata delle Trincee, with our guide Walter below me.
The Marmolada in clouds from the VF Trincee. We would climb it only 3 days later.
Climbing on VF delle Trincee, definitely expert grade, though not a particularly long route.
Our OnTop group on a VF della Trincee knife edge. Note the wooden bridge.
The Civetta Northwest face from VF della Trincee
Ron traversing on the VF Tomaselli with a lot of air beneath him
Me pulling over a crux on the VF Tomaselli
View of where we climbed up to Punta Sud on the VF Tomaselli. Despite appearances, it didn’t rain where we were that day.
The Moiazza (VF Costantini) in the early morning light. This was our longest day, about 11 hours and 1500 meters gain on this expert level ferrata.
Me climbing the VF Costantini
Smiling during a short rest on the VF Costantini
Monte Pelmo from Moiazza. This not-so-good photo shows the mountain from the south. I had just done the circuit the week before.
Our group that reached the top of Moiazza Sud (2878m)
Me descending a crux on the VF Costantini. My ‘biner got caught on a U-bolt here, necessitating using a Quick Draw to help free it.
Our full group on day 4, the VF Marmolada to the top of Marmolada.
Our group ascending an ice field on Marmolada. I am in front here
Another group heading up the Marmolada West Ridge VF route
Me with Miriam behind, ascending an easy snow field on Marmolada
View north from Punta Penia on the Marmolada, the highest in the Dolomites at 3343 m.
Punta Penia rifugio on Marmolada. They bring in supplies by helicopter, making the $4.50 for a soda a relative bargain.
Chopper seen hovering from Punta Penia. I’m not quite sure what that building is.
Panorama of me and others in our group hiking up to the VF Cesare Piazzetta on day 5. The top of this massif is Piz Boe, although our route didn’t go all the way to the summit.
Our guide Walter, with Ed and Luba behind, climbing the Piazzetta
Me on an ascending traverse of VF Cesare Piazzetta
Me crossing a bridge on the VF Cesare Piazzetta.
Our guide Walter having a well-earned rest at the gondola station after completing the VF Cesare Piazzetta.  Gondola ascents and/or descents were always welcome wherever possible.

My next post will be at the beginning of October after my hikes in Croatia and Bosnia these next two weeks. Until then, enjoy the autumn outdoors,

The Vagabond Hiker

 

Europe, Italy Kent

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