Europe – Page 3

Walks, Hikes, and Via Ferrate in the Alta Val Camonica, Brescia (Lombardy)

August 14, 2025

Located northeast of Milan and west of the Dolomites lies Val Camonica, a valley in Lombardy that’s one of the largest in the Central Alps. It stretches about 90 kilometers between the provinces of Brescia and Bergamo, from Lago d’Iseo to Passo Tonale, Passo Aprica and Passo Gavia. The entire valley is crossed by Fiume Oglio, the fifth largest river In Italy, starting a few kilometers above Vione in Ponte di Legno where two streams meet. At the southern end it empties into Lago d’Iseo, with its waters eventually joining the Po River. The largest rock art site in Europe, with more than 300,000 petroglyphs spanning 8000 years, is found in the lower and middle portions of the valley, which in 1979 was designated Italy’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site. With limited time and high summer temperatures, I left exploring this fascinating pre-Roman and Roman history for another visit.

Staying at an Airbnb apartment located in the village of Vione at 1250 mslm, for four weeks I walked, hiked, and climbed via ferrate in the upper (alta) end of the valley, an area I had driven through once in 2018, but had never visited. Portions of two major parks, Stelvio, and Adamello, are found above the Alta Val Camonica, which provided the impetus for my sojourn here. I was doubly fortunate in having my brother and sister-in-law join me for 10 days and a few of the hikes. It certainly took some effort to reduce the nearly 400 photos to some semblance of a reasonable blog post. Enjoy!

Ponte di Legno confluence. This lovely town about 7 km north of Vione was a bit touristy, though I expect nothing like during the winter skiing season.

*Val di Cané* stream and house. This valley, one of numerous side valleys radiating from Val Camonica, was directly behind Vione, and a popular location for both hikes and picnics.

*Laghetti di Pietra Rossa*, above *Val di Cané*, taken on my second hike from this valley.

A frog I spotted at the pond in the previous photo

Vista from *Bocchette Val di Cané* to *Val Grande*. This pass was the turnaround point for my second hike from this valley.

Horses seen on a loop hike to *Bocchette di Val Massa* from *Val di Cané*, my third from this valley.

WWI stone wall at *Bocchette di Val Massa*. The Italian-Austrian front lines were along many of these mountain passes.

The hamlet of Case di Viso, several kilometers above Ponte di Legno, and the starting point for our hike to *Rifugio Bozzi* where we had lunch.

My brother, Mark, walking at Trincee, old World War I fortifications, adjacent to *Rifugio Bozzi*

Mark above Passo Paradiso, a hike that started with taking a cabinovia (gondola lift) from Passo Tonale. We went “off-piste” for a bit of scrambling away from the crowds on this hike.

The Vagabond Hiker relaxing above Passo Paradiso

Presena Glacier and sign mentioning the geotextiles covering it, in a futile attempt to halt the melting. Note Presena Bar 3000 at the upper left. The cabinovia line to the top is not really visible here.

Mark and Norma on a short hike from Bar Presena 3000, at the top station above Presena Galcier. The glacier on the right is the Adamello, the largest in Italy.

Moss campion and granite. Unlike most of the limestone Dolomites to the east, much of these mountains are granitic.

A cottage near Sant’Apollonia, starting point for our challenging hike to the three Laghi di Monticelli

A pano taken at the third lake, the highest of the three

View toward Monte Gavia from the third Laghi di Monticelli. Mark can just be spotted on the right side of the lake here. Less than two weeks later I would attempt to climb Monte Gavia.

The Alta Val Camonica above Temù. Walking in the Camonica Valley proper was a great way to enjoy an “off” day.

A stream on the trail from Val Bione on a *Rifugio Petitpierre – Corno d’Aola* loop from *Rifugio Valbione*

Tall yarrow. Most were white, but some a vibrant pink like this example.

Monte Gavia and Monte Gavia “Sud” (on the left) from the trailhead at Passo Gavia. At 2650 mslm, this pass is the highest vehicular pass above the Val Camonica. (NB: the “Sud” appellation is my own invention).

Monte Gavia “Sud” summit view back towards the trailhead and Lago Bianco.

On the summit with Monte Gavia background. After recent rains, an icy descent to the col connecting them convinced me to defer the higher peak to another day.

My last two excursions of note were both Via Ferrate (VF). Here is the less than exciting start to the *VF Alpini & Austriaci* on the north side above Passo Tonale.

Edelweiss. This single plant near the beginning of the *Via Ferrata Alpini* was the only one I saw the entire month I stayed in Vione.

The remote Cocchiale basin with three (unnamed) alpine lakes

A local I encountered on the route . . .

. . . and the rest of this Ibex’s family

Up close with some moms and kids. I saw Ibex three days, but on the *VF Austriaci* I finally managed some decent photos.

Screenshot from the PeakFinder app, taken from my balcony. The two labelled peaks on the *Via Ferrata Dei Fiori* in the Adamello Mountains are circled in red. Pardon the elevations in feet rather than meters.

Another less than exciting start on *Via Ferrata dei Fiori*, from Passo Paradiso.

View from the Passo del Castellaccio. Some major wooden structure was built here during WWI.

Plank bridges aid this traverse, with two climbers seen in the V-notch on the right. Neither this nor the previous day’s *Via Ferrate* were all that difficult, provided one doesn’t suffer from vertigo!

Several climbers heading up to Panorama Point, about the only actual climbing on this VF route

A selfie view north on the *Via Ferrata dei Fiori*

The first Passerella, a VERY long cable suspension bridge

Looking back on a dramatic vista with the second Passerella

Glacier buttercup. Yes, there were some flowers in this land of rock and ice. Hence perhaps the name *Via Ferrata dei Fiori* has some justification.

View along the *Via Ferrata dei Fiori* towards Presena Bar 3000

My lunch view from the *Corno di Lago Scuro*. Note *Bivacco Passo Lago Scuro* (bivouac) at the lower right.

*Punto di Lago Ghiacciato* (upper left) with *Bivacco Passo Lago Scuro*. From here it was a 45 minute walk to the top of the cabinovia at Bar Presena 3000. Altogether a fine, if a bit crowded (even mid-week) ferrata.

And the obligatory mountain sunset photo. Alpenglow from my balcony in Vione. The amazing views made returning to my apartment each afternoon a pleasure.

Following a brief stay in Hastings, I will depart on Sunday for Minehead in Somerset to embark on another installment of the Southwest Coast Path. Seven days’ hiking west from there will bring me to Westward Ho!, where the challenge of completing this long distance trail started for me more than seven years ago. Stay tuned,

The Vagabond Hiker

Images from Arco, Trentino & an eastern European city break

July 26, 2025

Confession: I almost decided not to publish this blog. After all, I already posted twice in 2019 and 2023 on hikes and ferrate in the Lago di Gardo area of northern Italy. In addition, city cultural walks are not the main focus of my vagabond life, though I have published two blogs, in 2022 and 2023, featuring some amazing cities – predominantly European – that I have had the fortune to visit. However, my month-long stay in Arco highlighted different aspects of the environs of my favorite town in Italy that I have not yet shared. Furthermore, a chance to travel to two of the three remaining countries in Europe that I hadn’t yet visited, convinced me to post this blog. I hope you’ll indulge me a few photos from this past month. . .

Arco (TN), Italy

Located only 6 km north of the northern tip of Lago di Garda, to me it seems a world away from the water-sports and beach tourism of the lake. As arguably the outdoor capital of Trentino, Arco certainly attracts its fair share of active adventurers and all the climbing, hiking, and mountain/road biking shops to support them. With a two-week heatwave engulfing much of Europe, as well as some (thankfully) short-lived physical maladies, my excursions were generally short, always directly from my apartment, and early in the morning, often finishing about the time the sun appeared from behind the mountains, signalling the onset of another baking summer day in the Anthropocene epoch.

View of Arco Castle Hill with tower from my apartment balcony. The Sarca River (*Fiume Sarca*) is visible below.

*Fiume Sarca* and old mill near Arco. Several times I did an 8 km early morning loop walk up one side of the river and back the other side.

Roman bridge at Ceniga, rebuilt in the late 19th century. This was the farthest point of my many riverine loop walks.

Massone village street with clock, a few minutes’ walk from my apartment. From here there are numerous hikes through the *Bosco Caprone* and up into the nearby mountains.

Morning view towards Riva and Via Ferrata Susatti from above Arco. This lovely lane with oleanders and olive trees was part of the approach walk to the *Monte Baone* scramble.

*Eremo* *di San Paolo* along the *Fiume Sarca* above Arco. Near this hermitage a plethora of climbing gear is attached to an overhanging cliff.

Night view of Castle Hill with moon from my balcony

A morning view of the *Monte Baone* scramble route just outside of Arco

An early morning view of *Fiume Sarca* and community choir hall from the pedestrian and bicycle bridge 3 minutes’ walk from my apartment

My *Sarca Riverside Apartment*, a fantastic value with its own parking space. A faint blue rectangle shows my balcony. No AC for the summer months, though!

Chișinău, Tiraspol, and Odesa

Low-cost Wizz Air offers direct flights from Verona, Italy to Chișinău, Moldova three times per week. Many of you dear readers may know that I suffer from chronic FOFE*, but the opportunity to visit Moldova and Ukraine was too good to pass up. Flying out on a Sunday and returning Thursday gave me 3^1/2 days to experience the culture and history of an area I had never visited.

Map of Moldova, showing Transnistria and Odesa, Ukraine

Day 1 in Moldova featured a guided tour visiting the Curchi Monastery, walking around the historical and archaeological complex of Old Orhei (sorry, no pictures), lunch at a local rural restaurant, and an afternoon tour & tipple at a unique winery. The next morning I enjoyed a private guided walking tour of Chișinău and an afternoon relaxing by the lovely hotel pool. The “5 star” Diplomat Club Hotel I stayed at in Chisinau was a solid 3 star experience, nothing more. (To be fair, the price reflected this reality). The quiet location and outdoor pool were certainly unusual in the city, and with only a 20 minute walk to the center or 10 minute walk to Valea Morilor park, it was a good choice despite the run-down rooms. The third full day I took a private guided tour to Transnistria and Odesa, Ukraine. The final morning before my return flight I spent walking around Valea Morilor park.

* – FOFE: Fear Of Flying Economy

An Orthodox church at Curchi Monastery. Less than 2 hours’ drive from Chișinău, it was wonderful walking around the grounds and enjoying the art and architecture.

The recently renovated orthodox church dome at Curchi monastery

With our small group at Milistii Mici Winery. Their wine-cellars are the largest in the world, with more than 200 km of underground galleries and 1.5 million bottles. The tour was fascinating and the wine’s not bad, either!

Mihai Eminescu National Theatre in Chișinău. I missed a wonderful piano concert here as I did not get back from Odesa until late that evening.

Saint Pantaleon Orthodox Church, Chișinău. The historic center of the city was very leafy.

St. George the Victorious Chapel with WW2 tank at the Memorial of Glory in Tiraspol. The landlocked breakaway state of Transnistria, internationally recognized as part of Moldova, is a throwback to the Soviet Union, with 1500 Russian troops stationed there. I am assured that most are locals, however.

Catherine the Great Monument Park, Tiraspol. The city is not all that walkable, but this large park is lovely.

Ladas at a Tiraspol Soviet-era cafeteria. Lots of relics and mementos from the Soviet Union make this a popular spot with tourists.

Moldova-Ukraine border crossing. It took almost an hour each way to cross. Not all that bad considering the country is at war.

A traditional (though a bit kitschy) Odesa restaurant, where my guide and I had a late lunch after crossing the Ukraine border from Moldova.

Odesa National Academic Theatre of Opera and Ballet. I grabbed the photo of this lovely institution from the internet. (My photo, taken from a moving buggy, was horrible). Though the theater reopened a few months after Russia’s invasion, for obvious reasons all museums in Odesa remain closed.

Old Odesa Corner, a lovely quiet spot in the bustling city

Lion statue at Old Odesa Corner, symbolizing power, courage, and guardianship. Definitely appropriate for these troubling times.

Odesa’s Potemkin Stairs, immortalized in Sergei Eisenstein’s 1925 silent movie **Battleship Potemkin**. Intriguingly, one can see only the landings from the top and only the stairs (no landings) from the bottom. Note the hotel on the pier that was bombed by Russia in 2023.

A gorgeous (IMO) 19th century baroque revival building in Odesa

Odesa Passage (shopping arcade) in Derybasivska Street, another gorgeous example of baroque revival

Damage to a side chapel of the Transfiguration Cathedral in Odesa, sustained on on 22/23 July, 2023 from missile and drone strikes by Putin

Valea Morilor Park steps, 10 minutes walking from my Chișinău hotel. Circumambulating the lake was wonderfully peaceful after a long, stressful day in Transnistria and Ukraine.

Despite the lovely city of Odesa and the great winery we visited, I must admit to being glad to return to Italy. Moldova was certainly interesting, but ex-soviet countries almost invariably lack any service-oriented culture and their infrastructure is spotty at best.

It is a rainy Saturday in Vione, Brescia, two reasons not to be out hiking today. However, I’ve done some amazing hikes in this mountainous area of northern Italy that I will post next month when I’m enjoying the seaside in Hastings, East Sussex. Until then, stay cool outdoors,

The Vagabond Hiker

Walks amongst the ruins in Antalya, Turkey

May 23, 2025

For my first (and hopefully only!) foray into medical tourism, I decided at the last minute to travel from Britain to Antalya, Turkey for a dental treatment. As the entire treatment would require around one week, I had time for to enjoy some of the local parks and archeological ruins the city and province of Antalya offered. With three extra days added afterwards, I also ventured farther afield south along the Lycian coast to the village of Çıralı. (For those readers who are not geography majors, the crescent-shaped province of Antalya is located in southwestern Turkey along the Mediterranean Sea, centered on it’s eponymous capital city of 1.4 million people. Tourism is the dominant industry). The late April seasonal addition of a daily British Airways flight direct from London Gatwick to Antalya made this trip simpler and more cost effective.

Enjoy some of the archeology and landscapes I captured on my “off days.”

Hadrian’s Gate, Antalya, the entrance our small tour group took into the old town.

View with flowers from Kecili Park, Antalya

Coastal view near my hotel, east of the old town in Antalya

Another coastal view near my hotel. These lovely flowers, sadly, are invasive lantanas.

Mehmet Manavoglu Park, about a 5 minute walk from my Antalya hotel.

Poolside view at the Hotel Akra Antalya. It is arguably the best resort hotel in Antalya and less than 10 minutes’ walk from the dentist.

Perge stadium. I joined a tour group to the ancient cities of Perge, Aspendos, and Side, an all-day trip with Solymos Travel that included a set lunch of some local fish.

Colonnaded street in Perge. Fortunately, we had plenty of time to wander around after the “official” tour.

The Theatre of Aspendos, the best preserved of antiquity.

The Acropolis in Aspendos. I was the only one to walk up here from the Theatre, but again we had sufficient time to explore on our own.

Temple of Apollo detail, Side. Side is mostly a sea-side touristy (though in a nice way) town that appeals to a predominantly German clientele. The history was interesting, nonetheless.

Side archeological complex aerial view, a photo I grabbed off the internet

Manavgat Waterfall, north of Side. Beautiful, but mostly an Instragram spot.

After four visits to the dentist, all was sorted and I got a private transfer down the coast about 70km to the chill beach town of Çıralı for three nights. Along the East Lycian Way, the Ancient City of Olympos (Olympus), Antalya, is just to the south.

Map of the East Lycian way and other park trails and sights. Çıralı and Olympos are circled in red on the left.

Olympos beach with Acropolis hill and castle. Venetians, Genoese, and Rhodians all built fortifications along this coast.

Olympos River estuary. Innumerable frogs were in full throat on the two mornings I visited.

A rather depleted Olympos river and bathhouse ruins, in the Ancient city of Olympos. Some nice photos and a short history of the city can be found on this site.

Ancient Olympos Necropolis church. The visitor center is on the far right.

A small portion of the Bishop’s Palace, Olympos

Detail of “building with mosaics”, Olympos. Remnants of the floor mosaics are now in a museum in Antalya.

Çıralı beach and town view from Olympos hillside

An arch on the south side of Olympos. The area south of the river was much overgrown and the focus of my 2nd day’s walk.

West Theatre entrance from the inside, Olympos

Greek tortoise (Testudo graeca) with baby below Çıralı castle. The vulnerable *Caretta caretta* (loggerhead sea turtle) also nests here from mid-May to the autumn.

Çıralı mosque. I spent a long morning on a circular hike around the village and into the surrounding hills. Tourism has displaced some of the traditional agriculture, though much still remains.

Canada Bungalow porch view, Çıralı. It was a fine choice for my short stay, though a bit out of town. My recommendation is the Azur Hotel, though there are numerous accommodation options amongst the pines and orchards.

Tomorrow I begin my travels to Cusco, Peru for a 9 day trek to the Incan ruins of Choquequirao and Machu Picchu. This is the trek that was cancelled last year and I was fortunate that KE Adventures decided to run it this year with only 3 clients. Stay tuned for more archeology and hikes next month!

The Vagabond Hiker

PS The dental treatment I had in Antalya went wonderfully and the cost savings more than paid for the short vacation to Turkey.

Walks, Hikes, and Via Ferrate in the Alta Val Camonica, Brescia (Lombardy)

Images from Arco, Trentino & an eastern European city break

Arco (TN), Italy

Chișinău, Tiraspol, and Odesa

Walks amongst the ruins in Antalya, Turkey

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