The Vagabond Hiker

Hiking, trekking, and climbing the world

Northern Morocco town and country walks

Happy Holidays from Singapore!

I had previously been to Morocco three times with the sole focus on trekking and climbing, the latest in 2023 when I summited Mt. Toubkal. In contrast, my one week visit to northern Morocco in October focused almost exclusively on culture, archeology, and history. Nevertheless, as with nearly all my travels, a walking component was not neglected as our Intrepid Travel group explored on foot: Cape Spartel north of Tangiers, the Blue City of Chefchaouen (and nearby hills), the sacred town of Moulay Idriss, the Roman ruins of Volubilis, and the frenetic Medina of Fes, before finishing in Marrakech.

Join me on a short journey through northern Morocco.

Our 8 day itinerary from Casablanca to Marrakech.
Cape Spartel lighthouse, Tangier. While our trip started in Casablanca, to my mind it is not a city worth exploring and the 2 hour high speed train (300 kph!) quickly brought us to Tangier and the northern coast.
View towards Spain and Gibralter at Cape Spartel. Northern Morocco was far greener than what I have experienced in the more arid southern part of the country.
Hotel Dar Mounir in Chefchaouen. My windows are directly above the entrance. Earplugs required!
One other guest and I took a half-day guided hike along some trails into the Rif Mountains. Here is a view back to the Blue City of Chefchaouen, easily my fave on this trip.
Goats along the trail
A street in Chefchaouen
Lush foilage outside the Kasbah of Chefchaouen
Another Chefchaouen street. Though hardly undiscovered by tourists, I never grew tired of walking around this town.
Colorful steps in the sacred town of Moulay Idress Zerhoun. Non-Muslims have only been allowed to visit since early this century.
Sunset over Moulay Idress Zerhoun. The town is named for the father of Islam in Morocco, Idris (I) ibn Abd Allah.
Basilica of Volubilis. Spot the moon. Despite being better known, these Roman ruins were not as impressive as either Dougga or Bulla Regia that I recently visited in Tunisia.
Volubilis in-situ tile mosaic
Intricate zellige tilework on a Royal Palace door in Fes. I had no idea that Fes has about the population of Tangier, the 2nd largest city in Morocco after Casablanca.
Unusual in Morocco are the wooden balconies in the Quartier Mellah, the historic Jewish Quarter of Fes.
Fes Medina. This monstrously large warren of more than 10,000 streets definitely required a guide to explore!
Squeezing down a narrow alley in the Fes Medina
Medina market stall in Fes. Gorgeous!
Jardin Majorelle, Marrakech. Since my last visit in 2019, the Private Garden of the Villa Oasis, where Pierre Bergé and Yves Saint Laurent lived, has been opened to the public.

I am working on my next blog post, Walking on Tenerife and Gran Canaria, another in my long-running series on the Canary Islands. As it will be my first post of the New Year, I hope to further update my readers on my 2026 plans at that point.

Meanwhile, enjoy your Holidays with friends and family,

The Vagabond Hiker

The Southwest Coast Path: St Ives to Padstow

In October I continued my SWCP odyssey, walking in the “wrong” direction, eastwards from St Ives to Padstow in northern Corwall. My totals were: 105 km and 2550 meters elevation gain over the 6 days. Enjoy the photos and pardon the lack of usual verbiage!

St Ives to Phillack

13 km and 250 m elevation gain

View back towards St Ives harbor
A house for sale in Lelant, overlooking the River Hayle. A bit out of my price range, I’m sure.
The Hayle Mining Pump House monument
My Penellen Guest House balcony view

Day 2: Phillack to Portreath

18 km and 500 m elevation gain

Mutton Cove. Note all the seals hauled out.
Godrevy Lighthouse, marking a dangerous reef called The Stones
Sea Campion. As usual, not many wildflowers were out in the autumn.
Coast view back to Hell’s Mouth. The nearby Hell’s Mouth Café was a great spot for lunch.
Corvids (far left) and equines near Portreath
Portreath

Day 3: Portreath to Perranporth

20 km and 700 m elevation gain

Towanroath Shaft engine house at Wheal Coates
Convoluted erosional geology
The coast near Perranporth
My Seiner’s Arms hotel room view, Perranporth

Day 4: Perranporth to Newquay

14.5 km and 250 m elevation gain

Perranporth beach. The Seiners Arms is the rambling blue building
Looking back on Perranporth Beach
The “Commandant’s House” (my term – I’m not sure what this building is) at Penhale Camp. The camp was established in 1939 to train WW2 anti-aircraft gunners.
‘Shrooms & Sea
The Newquay tidal foot bridge

Day 5: Newquay to Porthcothan

19.5 km and 450 m elevation gain

Bedruthan Path, a gorgeous stretch of coast
Carnewas (Cornish, meaning “rock-pile of summer dwelling”) at Bedruthan
View towards Park Head. This was easily the best day for photography.
A pano just before reaching Porthcothan
An old curzyway dry stone wall, typical construction on this stretch of north Cornwall

Day 6: Porthcothan to Padstow

20.5 km and 400 m elevation gain

Trevose Head Lighthouse, featuring four holiday cottages
RNLI lifeboat station, Padstow, at Trevose Head
Prideaux Place Deer Park, Padstow. Seasonally open to the public, Prideaux Place has a fascinating history. I had diverted slightly to reach my inland Airbnb, where I stayed the final two nights.

This past six weeks I have traveled to northern Morocco to see some cultural sights and then to Tenerife and Gran Canaria in the Canary Islands for group walking weeks. They will all be subjects for a future blog post or two towards the end of the year or early 2026.

Tomorrow I depart for Kuala Lumpur and then onward to Taiwan for my 3½ month winter trip to Southeast Asia and Western Australia. Not to worry, though, there will be some hiking involved. . .

The Vagabond Hiker

Algarve Coastal Hikes

For several years I’ve been trying to schedule a hiking trip to this area of southwest Portugal, but other travel plans kept on postponing it. In late September I finally managed a week at an AirBnb in the coastal town of Lagos, joined by Maggie. While we didn’t do as many hikes as I planned – barely scratching the surface of the potential for an avid hiker – our week was a great introduction to the area, its paths, beaches, food, and history. Enjoy a few highlights. . .

Morning balcony view from our Airbnb apartment. Located just outside of the Old Town, since we were renting a car, with all the mod cons it was perfect for a one week stay.
Jacaranda mimosifolia. In typical fashion, this tree was about the only photo I took in the lovely historic center of Lagos!

From Lagos to Porto de Mos and beyond

This 14 km started right out of our apartment door. Although popular on a Sunday, it was absolutely amazing!

Steps to the sea at Ponta da Piedade, the southern-most point near Lagos
An arch at Ponta da Piedade
Coastal grasses and rock formations, Ponta da Piedade
Praia do Canavial. A gorgeous beach that required a steep descent to reach. Either because of that or because it is a nudist beach, there were few people!

Rota Circular do Cabo de Sao Vicente

The southwestern-most point in Europe was our trailhead for this 17 km loop hike. The coastal portion was definitely more interesting than the inland part!

Forto de Santo António de Belixe
Red squill (Drimia marittima). I had seen this autumn-blooming species on both Crete and Sardinia.
Snails on a pole. Was it the warmth or the moisture that drew them?
Maggie at Praia da Ponta Ruiva where we had our picnic lunch
Selfie with Maggie near Praia das Eiras
Coastal view north from near Pedra das Gaivotas
Autumn squill (Prospero autumnale). If it weren’t for the squills, we would have seen very few wildflowers in late September!

Alvor Walkways

This wasn’t really a hike, more an easy stroll. My plantar fascia had become inflamed and I needed two days rest before attempting even this easy 8 km walk.

Marsh view. I was hoping to spot some migratory birds as this was right along the coast east of Lagos, but there was little to reward my endeavors.

Seven Hanging Valleys

Easily the most popular hike in the area, and perhaps the entire Algarve. With great weather, lunch at a beach café at the halfway point, and a spectacular coast, this must-do hike was a fantastic choice for our last day in Lagos.

Rocha do Elefante
Farol de Alfanzina
Praia do Carvalho

I’m not sure exactly when this post will be published, but I am either in Morocco, the Canary Islands, or back for a short stay in Hastings before heading to Southeast Asia and Australia for the winter.

Happy Trails wherever you happen to be,

The Vagabond Hiker

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