The Vagabond Hiker

Hiking, trekking, and climbing the world

Walks, Hikes, and Via Ferrate in the Alta Val Camonica, Brescia (Lombardy)

Located northeast of Milan and west of the Dolomites lies Val Camonica, a valley in Lombardy that’s one of the largest in the Central Alps. It stretches about 90 kilometers between the provinces of Brescia and Bergamo, from Lago d’Iseo to Passo Tonale, Passo Aprica and Passo Gavia. The entire valley is crossed by Fiume Oglio, the fifth largest river In Italy, starting a few kilometers above Vione in Ponte di Legno where two streams meet. At the southern end it empties into Lago d’Iseo, with its waters eventually joining the Po River. The largest rock art site in Europe, with more than 300,000 petroglyphs spanning 8000 years, is found in the lower and middle portions of the valley, which in 1979 was designated Italy’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site. With limited time and high summer temperatures, I left exploring this fascinating pre-Roman and Roman history for another visit.

Staying at an Airbnb apartment located in the village of Vione at 1250 mslm, for four weeks I walked, hiked, and climbed via ferrate in the upper (alta) end of the valley, an area I had driven through once in 2018, but had never visited. Portions of two major parks, Stelvio, and Adamello, are found above the Alta Val Camonica, which provided the impetus for my sojourn here. I was doubly fortunate in having my brother and sister-in-law join me for 10 days and a few of the hikes. It certainly took some effort to reduce the nearly 400 photos to some semblance of a reasonable blog post. Enjoy!

Ponte di Legno confluence. This lovely town about 7 km north of Vione was a bit touristy, though I expect nothing like during the winter skiing season.
Val di Cané stream and house. This valley, one of numerous side valleys radiating from Val Camonica, was directly behind Vione, and a popular location for both hikes and picnics.
A betony-leaved rampion
European yellow rattle
View at the head of Val di Cané.
Laghetti di Pietra Rossa, above Val di Cané, taken on my second hike from this valley.
A frog I spotted at the pond in the previous photo
Vista from Bocchette Val di Cané to Val Grande. This pass was the turnaround point for my second hike from this valley.
Horses seen on a loop hike to Bocchette di Val Massa from Val di Cané, my third from this valley.
WWI stone wall at Bocchette di Val Massa. The Italian-Austrian front lines were along many of these mountain passes.
A large-flowered selfheal
The hamlet of Case di Viso, several kilometers above Ponte di Legno, and the starting point for our hike to Rifugio Bozzi where we had lunch.
My brother, Mark, walking at Trincee, old World War I fortifications, adjacent to Rifugio Bozzi
Mark above Passo Paradiso, a hike that started with taking a cabinovia (gondola lift) from Passo Tonale. We went “off-piste” for a bit of scrambling away from the crowds on this hike.
The Vagabond Hiker relaxing above Passo Paradiso
Velvetbells, one of my faves
Presena Glacier and sign mentioning the geotextiles covering it, in a futile attempt to halt the melting. Note Presena Bar 3000 at the upper left. The cabinovia line to the top is not really visible here.
Mark and Norma on a short hike from Bar Presena 3000, at the top station above Presena Galcier. The glacier on the right is the Adamello, the largest in Italy.
Moss campion and granite. Unlike most of the limestone Dolomites to the east, much of these mountains are granitic.
A cottage near Sant’Apollonia, starting point for our challenging hike to the three Laghi di Monticelli
A pano taken at the third lake, the highest of the three
View toward Monte Gavia from the third Laghi di Monticelli. Mark can just be spotted on the right side of the lake here. Less than two weeks later I would attempt to climb Monte Gavia.
Hooved locusts with minder
The Alta Val Camonica above Temù. Walking in the Camonica Valley proper was a great way to enjoy an “off” day.
Creeping bell-flower
Fiume Oglio, above Temù.
A stream on the trail from Val Bione on a Rifugio Petitpierre – Corno d’Aola loop from Rifugio Valbione
Tall yarrow. Most were white, but some a vibrant pink like this example.
Monte Gavia and Monte Gavia “Sud” (on the left) from the trailhead at Passo Gavia. At 2650 mslm, this pass is the highest vehicular pass above the Val Camonica. (NB: the “Sud” appellation is my own invention).
Monte Gavia “Sud” summit view back towards the trailhead and Lago Bianco.
On the summit with Monte Gavia background. After recent rains, an icy descent to the col connecting them convinced me to defer the higher peak to another day.
My last two excursions of note were both Via Ferrate (VF). Here is the less than exciting start to the VF Alpini & Austriaci on the north side above Passo Tonale.
Edelweiss. This single plant near the beginning of the Via Ferrata Alpini was the only one I saw the entire month I stayed in Vione.
Clouds roll in on a north-side traverse
View south down to Passo Tonale
Torrione d’Albiolo summit and cross
The remote Cocchiale basin with three (unnamed) alpine lakes
A local I encountered on the route . . .
. . . and the rest of this Ibex’s family
Up close with some moms and kids. I saw Ibex three days, but on the VF Austriaci I finally managed some decent photos.
Screenshot from the PeakFinder app, taken from my balcony. The two labelled peaks on the Via Ferrata Dei Fiori in the Adamello Mountains are circled in red. Pardon the elevations in feet rather than meters.
Another less than exciting start on Via Ferrata dei Fiori, from Passo Paradiso.
WWI graveyard of barbed wire
View from the Passo del Castellaccio. Some major wooden structure was built here during WWI.
Plank bridges aid this traverse, with two climbers seen in the V-notch on the right. Neither this nor the previous day’s Via Ferrate were all that difficult, provided one doesn’t suffer from vertigo!
Several climbers heading up to Panorama Point, about the only actual climbing on this VF route
A selfie view north on the Via Ferrata dei Fiori
View from the first Passerella
The first Passerella, a VERY long cable suspension bridge
Looking back on a dramatic vista with the second Passerella
Small-leaved gentians and granite
Glacier buttercup. Yes, there were some flowers in this land of rock and ice. Hence perhaps the name Via Ferrata dei Fiori has some justification.
View along the Via Ferrata dei Fiori towards Presena Bar 3000
My lunch view from the Corno di Lago Scuro. Note Bivacco Passo Lago Scuro (bivouac) at the lower right.
Punto di Lago Ghiacciato (upper left) with Bivacco Passo Lago Scuro. From here it was a 45 minute walk to the top of the cabinovia at Bar Presena 3000. Altogether a fine, if a bit crowded (even mid-week) ferrata.
And the obligatory mountain sunset photo. Alpenglow from my balcony in Vione. The amazing views made returning to my apartment each afternoon a pleasure.

Following a brief stay in Hastings, I will depart on Sunday for Minehead in Somerset to embark on another installment of the Southwest Coast Path. Seven days’ hiking west from there will bring me to Westward Ho!, where the challenge of completing this long distance trail started for me more than seven years ago. Stay tuned,

The Vagabond Hiker

Images from Arco, Trentino & an eastern European city break

Confession: I almost decided not to publish this blog. After all, I already posted twice in 2019 and 2023 on hikes and ferrate in the Lago di Gardo area of northern Italy. In addition, city cultural walks are not the main focus of my vagabond life, though I have published two blogs, in 2022 and 2023, featuring some amazing cities – predominantly European – that I have had the fortune to visit. However, my month-long stay in Arco highlighted different aspects of the environs of my favorite town in Italy that I have not yet shared. Furthermore, a chance to travel to two of the three remaining countries in Europe that I hadn’t yet visited, convinced me to post this blog. I hope you’ll indulge me a few photos from this past month. . .

Arco (TN), Italy

Located only 6 km north of the northern tip of Lago di Garda, to me it seems a world away from the water-sports and beach tourism of the lake. As arguably the outdoor capital of Trentino, Arco certainly attracts its fair share of active adventurers and all the climbing, hiking, and mountain/road biking shops to support them. With a two-week heatwave engulfing much of Europe, as well as some (thankfully) short-lived physical maladies, my excursions were generally short, always directly from my apartment, and early in the morning, often finishing about the time the sun appeared from behind the mountains, signalling the onset of another baking summer day in the Anthropocene epoch.

View of Arco Castle Hill with tower from my apartment balcony. The Sarca River (Fiume Sarca) is visible below.
Fiume Sarca and old mill near Arco. Several times I did an 8 km early morning loop walk up one side of the river and back the other side.
Roman bridge at Ceniga, rebuilt in the late 19th century. This was the farthest point of my many riverine loop walks.
Massone village street with clock, a few minutes’ walk from my apartment. From here there are numerous hikes through the Bosco Caprone and up into the nearby mountains.
Morning view towards Riva and Via Ferrata Susatti from above Arco. This lovely lane with oleanders and olive trees was part of the approach walk to the Monte Baone scramble.
Eremo di San Paolo along the Fiume Sarca above Arco. Near this hermitage a plethora of climbing gear is attached to an overhanging cliff.
Night view of Castle Hill with moon from my balcony
A morning view of the Monte Baone scramble route just outside of Arco
An early morning view of Fiume Sarca and community choir hall from the pedestrian and bicycle bridge 3 minutes’ walk from my apartment
My Sarca Riverside Apartment, a fantastic value with its own parking space. A faint blue rectangle shows my balcony. No AC for the summer months, though!

Chișinău, Tiraspol, and Odesa

Low-cost Wizz Air offers direct flights from Verona, Italy to Chișinău, Moldova three times per week. Many of you dear readers may know that I suffer from chronic FOFE*, but the opportunity to visit Moldova and Ukraine was too good to pass up. Flying out on a Sunday and returning Thursday gave me 31/2 days to experience the culture and history of an area I had never visited.

Map of Moldova, showing Transnistria and Odesa, Ukraine

Day 1 in Moldova featured a guided tour visiting the Curchi Monastery, walking around the historical and archaeological complex of Old Orhei (sorry, no pictures), lunch at a local rural restaurant, and an afternoon tour & tipple at a unique winery. The next morning I enjoyed a private guided walking tour of Chișinău and an afternoon relaxing by the lovely hotel pool. The “5 star” Diplomat Club Hotel I stayed at in Chisinau was a solid 3 star experience, nothing more. (To be fair, the price reflected this reality). The quiet location and outdoor pool were certainly unusual in the city, and with only a 20 minute walk to the center or 10 minute walk to Valea Morilor park, it was a good choice despite the run-down rooms. The third full day I took a private guided tour to Transnistria and Odesa, Ukraine. The final morning before my return flight I spent walking around Valea Morilor park.

* – FOFE: Fear Of Flying Economy

An Orthodox church at Curchi Monastery. Less than 2 hours’ drive from Chișinău, it was wonderful walking around the grounds and enjoying the art and architecture.
The recently renovated orthodox church dome at Curchi monastery
With our small group at Milistii Mici Winery. Their wine-cellars are the largest in the world, with more than 200 km of underground galleries and 1.5 million bottles. The tour was fascinating and the wine’s not bad, either!
Mihai Eminescu National Theatre in Chișinău. I missed a wonderful piano concert here as I did not get back from Odesa until late that evening.
Saint Pantaleon Orthodox Church, Chișinău. The historic center of the city was very leafy.
St. George the Victorious Chapel with WW2 tank at the Memorial of Glory in Tiraspol. The landlocked breakaway state of Transnistria, internationally recognized as part of Moldova, is a throwback to the Soviet Union, with 1500 Russian troops stationed there. I am assured that most are locals, however.
Catherine the Great Monument Park, Tiraspol. The city is not all that walkable, but this large park is lovely.
Ladas at a Tiraspol Soviet-era cafeteria. Lots of relics and mementos from the Soviet Union make this a popular spot with tourists.
Moldova-Ukraine border crossing. It took almost an hour each way to cross. Not all that bad considering the country is at war.
A traditional (though a bit kitschy) Odesa restaurant, where my guide and I had a late lunch after crossing the Ukraine border from Moldova.
Odesa National Academic Theatre of Opera and Ballet. I grabbed the photo of this lovely institution from the internet. (My photo, taken from a moving buggy, was horrible). Though the theater reopened a few months after Russia’s invasion, for obvious reasons all museums in Odesa remain closed.
Old Odesa Corner, a lovely quiet spot in the bustling city
Lion statue at Old Odesa Corner, symbolizing power, courage, and guardianship. Definitely appropriate for these troubling times.
Odesa’s Potemkin Stairs, immortalized in Sergei Eisenstein’s 1925 silent movie Battleship Potemkin. Intriguingly, one can see only the landings from the top and only the stairs (no landings) from the bottom. Note the hotel on the pier that was bombed by Russia in 2023.
A gorgeous (IMO) 19th century baroque revival building in Odesa
Odesa Passage (shopping arcade) in Derybasivska Street, another gorgeous example of baroque revival
Damage to a side chapel of the Transfiguration Cathedral in Odesa, sustained on on 22/23 July, 2023 from missile and drone strikes by Putin
Valea Morilor Park steps, 10 minutes walking from my Chișinău hotel. Circumambulating the lake was wonderfully peaceful after a long, stressful day in Transnistria and Ukraine.

Despite the lovely city of Odesa and the great winery we visited, I must admit to being glad to return to Italy. Moldova was certainly interesting, but ex-soviet countries almost invariably lack any service-oriented culture and their infrastructure is spotty at best.

It is a rainy Saturday in Vione, Brescia, two reasons not to be out hiking today. However, I’ve done some amazing hikes in this mountainous area of northern Italy that I will post next month when I’m enjoying the seaside in Hastings, East Sussex. Until then, stay cool outdoors,

The Vagabond Hiker

Peru’s Choquequirao Trek to Machu Picchu

When my Choquequirao trek was canceled last year, I had little expectation that I would be going on this amazing trek anytime soon. But, one year on, that is exactly what happened. This time, despite having only three clients, KE Adventures elected to run the trip. As it turned out, my fourth trek in Peru was the most challenging of my life. The wildflowers we encountered are well-represented here, in part because of their sheer numbers and variety, and in part because taking the time with these macros provided a chance to catch my breath! Enjoy.

Pre-trek: Cusco area and Saywite Archeological Site

As with any trek in the Cusco region of Peru, the first couple days are spent acclimatizing in and around Cusco (elevation 3400 m) and the Sacred Valley. This time was no exception as we visited several local Incan sites as well as enjoyed a city tour.

Rural view with Incan ruins above Cusco
The “Puma Paw” at Sacsayhuamán. Some stone blocks here weigh more than 100 tons.
Cantua buxifolia, the Peruvian magic tree
A sundial at Saywite Archeological Site, where we stopped for a couple hours walking on our long drive to the trailhead

Choquequirao Trek Overview

Sitting astride a high ridge amongst the snow-capped peaks of Peru, the Inca fortress of Choquequirao is one of the most important discoveries of Inca antiquity. Already a rival to Machu Picchu in terms of its size, if not its splendor, more buildings and llama-decorated terraces are being excavated each year. More remote and challenging to access than Machu Picchu, it is consequently far less visited and still offers one the chance to wander freely amongst the evocative ruins and explore the terraces in relative solitude. KE Adventure’s fully supported trek was by way of the awe-inspiring canyon of the Apurimac River, involving an exciting descent and ascent of almost 2000 m to reach camp beside the citadel of Choquequirao. After two half-days exploring this amazing complex, we continued trekking for five more days through the rugged and beautiful Cordillera Vilcabamba, a region dominated by impressive snowy 6000 m peaks, including Pumasillo and Salkantay.

The trek by the numbers:

  • Nine days
  • 78.5 total kilometers*
  • 6730 meters total elevation gain*
  • 4643 meters highest elevation

* I only did a partial ascent/descent on Day 7, reflected in the totals shown

Our Chiquequirao trek route from Capuliyoc to the Urubamba Hydroelectric Dam

Day 1: Capuliyoc to Chiquiska campsite

8 km, 120 m gain

We made a very early start from Cusco today, which included a stop at the Saywite archeological site (see previous photo) and featured lunch at the trailhead as our mules were being sorted. The afternoon hike was an easy introduction to the area, as it was mostly descending towards the Apurimac Canyon.

Looking back to Capuliyoc trailhead and its glamp-site, where we had lunch

Day 2: Chiquiska campsite to Marampata camp

8 km, 1550 m gain

After descending to the Apurimac River, a long, tiring ascent to Marampata camp followed. I needed to have a mule carry my pack the last hour or so. A stomach bug, nausea, and concomitant dehydration made this the most difficult trekking day I’ve ever completed.

Early morning view of our descent to the Apurimac River
Apurimac Canyon vista. My photos not surprisingly ceased around this point for the rest of the day.

Day 3: Marampata camp to Choquequirao

9.5 km, 600 m gain

After resting and hydrating at camp (and avoiding food), I was somewhat recovered for day 3, which included an afternoon at the Choquequirao site, the first of two explorations we would have at this amazing complex.

Barnadesia horrida, the first of many flower photos, mostly lacking English common names
Trail view towards Choquequirao (the flattish area on the hill in the mid-ground), with cacti foreground
A stream cascading down the mountain across our trail
The Vagabond Hiker at Choquequirao entrance gate.
Lamourouxia virgata
Some of the twenty-three Llamas embedded in the agricultural terraces, from which the steps derive their name
View northeast from the Choquequirao Llama steps
Epidendrum secundum, one of the crucifix orchids, known commonly as the lopsided star orchid
Looking down on Choquequirao’s main plaza
Andean condor. Only a slightly better image than that from my Cordillera Huayhuash trek in 2018.
Choquequirao “medicos” building remains. Not surprisingly, the wooden roofs had all completely deteriorated.

Day 4: Choquequirao to Pincha Unuyoc

7 km, 450 m gain

After a couple hours in the morning for further exploration of Choquequirao, we continued down to Pincha Unuyoc. I was feeling better, and spent much of the hike exploring the macro capabilities of my Olympus TG-6.

Some of the homes of the upper class at Choquequirao
Another perspective of Choquequirao’s main plaza
Altensteinia fimbriata, an unusual-looking orchid.
Landscape with bromeliad
Salvia sagittata, a high altitude member of the mint or sage family
Oenothera rosea, the Rose evening primrose. It is native to the Americas, but invasive in many areas around the world.
Leonotis nepetifolia. This invasive has several English common names. I like Klipp dagga.
Day 4 camp. One of the only times we needed our chemical toilet; most camp sites had flush toilets that actually worked!
Some of our mules at our day 4 campsite. I thought I should include at least one photo of them!

Day 5: Pincha Unuyoc to Maizal

8 km, 1160 m gain

The first of three “summit” days, featuring extended ascents . . .

. . . but first, a tricky descent to the Rio Blanco, here negotiated by Martyn and Matt.
. . . followed by an exciting river crossing; here, our guide, Rudy, is watching Martyn.
Day 5 vista

Day 6: Maizal to the Rio Yanama Valley

9.5 km, 1200 m gain

Our second “summit” day was to the Abra San Juan, our 2nd highest pass of the trek.

Andean lupines in the mist
Muddy Inca steps on day 6.
View from the Abra San Juan, 4150 mslm
With Matt (c) and Martyn at Abra San Juan. It was a tough, slow climb for me.
Our group at Abra San Juan. The fog never really lifted that day.
Matt and Rudy admire the vista on the descent as the clouds briefly thinned
Caiophora pedicularifolia. As this species has a known range of only Bolivia, perhaps it is another species of Caiophora.
Balcony trail on day 6, one of our few instances of any exposure.
Nasa triphylla. This beauty somehow reminds me of a shooting-star.

Day 7: Rio Yanama Valley to Totora village

11 km, 500 m gain*

* Reflecting my partial ascent/descent

Our “summit” on day 7 was for me a step too far. I did the first (easiest) half of the ascent and the second half (likewise more gentle) of the descent, catching the van transporting our camping supplies for the more challenging bits. (Our mules left us the evening before, exchanged for a rather clapped-out van).

A bucolic vista near the beginning of the Rio Yanama valley ascent
Lupinus mutabilis, the Andean lupine. I finally got a decent macro of this widespread flower.
With out chef, Juan (l), and Velarmino at Abra Mariano Llamocco, the highest point of the trek. I felt no guilt from my van ride up the massive headwall.
Resting at our lunch stop with Salcantay in the background, wreathed in clouds. I waited here about 21/2 hours for the rest of our group to arrive.
Near our day 7 Totora village camp

Day 8: Totora to Lucmabamba

17 km, 300 m gain

After three long ascents, today’s hike – the longest of the trek – was actually not that challenging as it generally descended along the valley.

Footbridge over Rio Santa Teresa below Collpapampa
The most impressive waterfall of many (mostly cascades) we saw on the trek.
Our group on another balcony trail, showing one of the landslides that have plagued this portion of the trek.
A hungry puppy at one of the camping areas along the Rio Santa Teresa
River-level view of the Rio Santa Teresa. We crossed the bridge here and climbed up to the local road to avoid several landslides.

Day 9: Lucmabamba to the Urubamba Hydro Dam

11.5 km, 850 m gain

Today featured one final pass to climb, whose summit provided views towards Machu Picchu. After lunch at a restaurant, we completed the trek in the early afternoon and caught the train to Agaus Calientes for a nice hot shower at our hotel.

Camino Inca, shortly after leaving our Lucmabamba campsite.
The upper portion of Salcantay (6271 m) appeared at the pass.
A zoom view towards Machu Picchu and Huayna Picchu from the pass. Can you spot them? As this portion of our trek coincided with the wildly popular Salcantay Trek, it was absolutely rammed with people.

Post-trek: Machu Picchu

We explored this phenomenal World Heritage Site for more than three hours the morning after our trek, before returning by bus/train/private van to Cusco. It was my first visit since 2009. Only one photo since I’m sure you’ve already seen many. . .

Machu Picchu and Huayna Picchu with bird. I’d like to think it’s an Andean Condor!

An interesting side note regarding the artifacts that Hiram Bingham brought back to Yale from his excavations at Machu Picchu between 1911 and 1916 is that many were finally returned this past decade to Peru where some museum-quality pieces are now available to see at the Museo Casa Concha in Cusco. I highly recommend a visit there when next you are in that special city.

Once again I am back in Italy, enjoying early morning walks and hikes in the Arco area of Trentino, before the heat of the day drives me indoors. Next week I relocate to northern Brescia in Lombardy, to the west of the Dolomites proper. Surrounded by two large national parks, it is an area of northern Italy that I have not explored, and promises some very interesting hiking. Either my upcoming month in Brescia or a recently completed “City Break” trip will be the subject of my next blog post. Until then, stay cool outdoors,

The Vagabond Hiker

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